Winter is a traditional time for all kinds of peelings and skin-renewing treatments. Why are they especially relevant at this time of the year and how to choose the right option for yourself?
Glycolic acid lotion, enzyme mask, retinol cream, vitamin C serum — at first glance, these products are not related. Different textures, methods of application, composition. And at the same time, they promise the skin plus or minus the same thing: renewal, radiance, smoothness and even tone. Why, then, with such different formulas, the result is the same? Is it possible to combine or alternate these products to get the maximum bonuses and become even more beautiful?
Let’s figure it out. In youth, the epidermis is completely renewed in 28 days. That is how much its cells — keratinocytes — need to be born in the basal layer and gradually rise to the surface under the onslaught of younger cells that appeared on the next and other days.
In other words, the development of the surface layer of the skin is carried out according to the principle of an elevator, which gradually rises from floor to floor — from layer to layer.
Moving, the keratinocyte performs certain functions at each level, gradually filling with horny substance. And in the end, it dies and sloughs off. Ideally, this process runs like clockwork, requiring no outside intervention. But who is perfect today?
A kick to age
With age, the rate of cell renewal of the epidermis, as well as the whole body, decreases. This is programmed by nature to save our energy. These efforts are reflected negatively on the appearance — the complexion worsens, wrinkles appear, pigmentation, self-moisturizing decreases.
To avoid this, it is worth showing a certain trick and giving a kind of “kick” to the germ cells of the epidermis. How? Depict an invasion from the outside by removing part of the stratum corneum. Its basal floor will immediately receive a danger signal and begin to actively divide in order to return the previous volume. This is how all exfoliating products work, whether they contain acids, enzymes, or other substances that dissolve intercellular bonds.
Another thing is that everything needs precautions. And too deep exfoliation can lead to irritation, make the skin vulnerable and accessible to ultraviolet light — the causes of pigmentation. Therefore, it is recommended that any peeling courses take place in December, when solar activity is minimal.
traffic controllers
The second type of products are those that act directly on germ cells, stimulating and «reprogramming» them. And here the leader is retinol. This active form of vitamin A knows how to normalize metabolic processes in keratinocytes and melanocytes, inducing the former to divide and moderating the activity of the latter.
Therefore, products with this substance are a panacea for wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and pigmentation.
Another thing is that retinol is sensitive to light. And therefore, it also manifests itself most actively again in December, when the nights are as long as possible. After all, it is a familiar ingredient in evening care products.
Another cell stimulant is vitamin C. More precisely, it works in two ways. On the one hand, ascorbic acid exfoliates the skin purely mechanically. On the other hand, it activates blood circulation, oxygen supply to cells and their active division.
Youth is not a hindrance
Regular exfoliation isn’t just for adults. In the case of oily, problematic skin, this procedure is mandatory even for teenagers — for purely hygienic purposes. Excess sebum sticks together dead skin cells, thickening the skin and serving as a breeding ground for bacteria that cause inflammation of acne.
But in this situation, not so much deep as surface-acting agents are needed: scrubs, masks with clay and acids, enzyme peels, and so on. Seasonality does not matter here, but regularity is paramount.
So, even if with the advent of winter the sebum secretion has become a little lower, you should not refuse regular exfoliating procedures.
Choose more gentle products, such as scrubs with sugar or salt granules, which, having completed their mission, simply dissolve on the skin. It is almost impossible to overdo it with them, and the result — smooth, velvety, matte skin — will please.
The main thing to remember is that you can not apply several exfoliating products in a row, so as not to cause skin dissatisfaction. There are ranges where all lotions, creams and serums contain exfoliating substances, complementing and enhancing each other’s action, but their symbiosis has been verified in the laboratory.
But self-made to combine lotion with fruit acids, enzyme serum and cream with retinol is fraught with consequences. In exfoliation, it’s better to underdo than overdo.
Essence with glycolic acid Vinoperfect, Caudalie