It is one of the star active ingredients in cosmetology, just like hyaluronic acid, retinol or AHAs. Ally for oily or acne-prone skin, salicylic acid is particularly prized for its ability to renew the superficial layers of the skin. What are its properties? How to use it ? We will explain everything to you !

Salicylic acid is a molecule extracted from willow bark that has been used in pharmacology for over a century. Manufactured for the first time in 1853 by the chemist CF Gerhardt, it is at the origin of the very famous aspirin, analgesic and antipyretic drug.

In cosmetology, it is mainly used for its keratolytic and regenerating actions which allow it to soften the surface layer of the skin – called the horny layer – to promote the elimination of dead cells. In medical dermatology, salicylic acid is used in the treatment of warts or corns and is then very high in dosage – from 40 to 50%.

Salicylic acid can be of synthetic or natural origin.

In cosmetics, salicylic acid has many virtues, which make it a very popular “beautiful skin” active. Regenerating, astringent, exfoliating, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antiseptic, this active ingredient has more than one string to its bow. It is particularly the darling of oily, acne-prone and blemish-prone skin.

Fights acne

Salicylic acid is very effective for acne prone skin. Its anti-inflammatory and antiseptic actions calm painful pimples and prevent their proliferation. Its keratolytic effect allows both to take off and eliminate dead cells that accumulate on the surface of the skin, but also to limit the appearance of blackheads and comedones.

Reduces pigment spots

The brown spots that appear on the skin after repeated sun exposure are linked to clumps of melanin accumulated in the cells of the stratum corneum. The keratolytic properties of salicylic acid are particularly useful for ridding the skin of these excess pigments, and for activating the renewal of skin cells.

Refines the texture of the skin

The purifying and regenerating actions of salicylic acid give it a very valuable action on the texture of the skin, which it tends to refine and smooth. The pores of the skin are tightened, a rejuvenating effect guaranteed!

Exfoliates the skin

Salicylic acid is also one of the best known and most effective exfoliating active ingredients, which makes it a star ingredient in peels. Thanks to its keratolytic action, it stimulates desquamation, and helps rid the epidermis of dead cells that dull the complexion. Once exfoliated, the skin can renew itself and give way to a smooth and clear epidermis.

Salicylic acid is a very active principle whose concentration in cosmetology is largely regulated by the European Commission. Its concentration in creams and serums should not exceed 2%. It is thus a priori well tolerated by all skin types. However, since salicylic acid is – as the name suggests – an acidic ingredient, the first few applications can cause slight stinging, even redness and minor irritation in people with sensitive skin.

Be careful therefore with the very thin skin around the eyes, and in small areas of the skin, such as the wings of the nose, where the product can accumulate and cause small flaking. If this is the case, it is best to space out its use, applying it every other day until the epidermis repairs itself and the skin gets used to it.

In addition, salicylic acid is a photosensitizer active, which can therefore cause reactions under the effect of UV rays from the sun. Cosmetics that contain it should ideally not be applied in the morning before sun exposure. It is preferable to use them in the evening before going to bed, and to use in parallel and throughout the duration of the treatment, a day cream with a sun filter.

Salicylic acid is not suitable for people with very dry or damaged skin, and should not be used on young children.

There are also rare serious allergies to salicylic acid, which can cause breathing problems, low blood pressure or even fainting. In the presence of these symptoms, it is of course imperative to stop the treatment.