Grafted or own-rooted roses: which is better, planting and care

Roses pamper summer residents with a variety of species and varieties. The method of growing a seedling affects the features of further care. Therefore, when buying, experienced gardeners are interested in grafted or own-rooted roses.

Seedlings are of two types: rooted from cuttings and grafted onto wild rose rootstock.

What does own-rooted roses mean?

Garden nurseries offer a wide variety of planting material. Seedlings grown by rooting cuttings, layering or dividing the bush are self-rooted. Experienced gardeners pay attention to the variety, and not to the method of reproduction, because they breed plants on their own.

Growing own-rooted roses is not possible in all regions. Most varieties are not frost-resistant, so they are grafted onto a stock. The strong roots of the wild rose go deep into the ground and nourish the young shoots of the shrub. In the northern regions, the vaccination is buried 2-3 cm into the ground, and for the winter they are insulated with humus and spruce branches.

Many gardeners try to grow their own roots from cuttings.

Roots are formed after 2-3 months. However, young seedlings still need to be preserved, so a greenhouse is built for them and grown indoors. Young roots may die at temperatures below 0 ⁰C. In the second year, the plant gives powerful roots, it is ready for transplanting into the ground, but for the winter the shrub is covered with non-woven fiber. Own-rooted plants are superior to their peers grafted onto wild rose rootstock in longevity and flowering splendor.

What are grafted roses

Initially, the plant was brought from warm countries where there are no winters and no rest is required. Therefore, they began to graft the rose on a wild rose rootstock in order to strengthen immunity and increase frost resistance.

Many garden nurseries use the budding method, as this greatly speeds up the reproduction process. Not every variety gives roots on cuttings, so the grafting method is used.

If the grafting site is buried in the soil, then the rose can give its own roots.

Rosehip is a strong, and sometimes aggressive plant, tolerates wintering well, and grows rapidly. He transfers all the power to the grafted rose.

If the graft is buried 3 cm into the ground, its own roots can form from the stem. Over time, they will grow, and the plant will receive additional nutrition.

So, a grafted rose can become own-rooted. In autumn, the plant is covered with humus and covered with agrofiber so that the flower survives the winter well. Sometimes the rootstock dries out, in which case its own roots will help the rose survive.

Experts advise not to bury floribundas and hybrid tea varieties of roses, because the grafting site rots and the plant dies, leaving the wild rose to grow. Gardeners from the northern regions of the country purchase only grafted plants, because native-rooted flowers cannot endure harsh winters.

What is the difference between grafted roses and own-rooted ones?

Experienced gardeners do not pay attention to the propagation method, because they know how to grow flowers on their own, they are more interested in the type and variety. The main differences between own-rooted and grafted roses are expressed in accelerated development on the rootstock and powerful immunity in radicular ones.

Grafted plants grow in different climatic zones. Own-rooted roses are preferred by the southern regions. Experienced gardeners deepen the grafting site when planting so that the plant grows its roots. This combined method allows you to accelerate the development of the shrub and increase immunity.

Park species, climbing species and floribunda grow on their own roots and tolerate slight low temperatures.

Pros and cons of own-rooted roses

Any plant has a number of advantages and disadvantages. The positive features include the following:

• resistance to viral diseases;
• winter-hardy qualities increase;
• the bush lives for more than ten years;
• abundant flowering;
• lack of shoots;
• when the branches freeze, the basal neck remains alive, and new shoots grow from sleeping buds.

In addition to the advantages, own-rooted roses have a number of disadvantages. Negative qualities include:

• young seedlings slowly increase their mass, so the plant is vulnerable;
• long process of reproduction;
• high demands on the composition of the soil.

Pros and cons of grafted roses

Oculated plants are more vulnerable. Severe frosts can damage the above-ground part, but since they have rosehip roots, the rose will not resume its growth. In addition, the vaccination site may rot or rot.

The life span of a grafted rose is up to five years. Over time, the basal neck is suppressed by wild rose hips, and the bush outgrows. In addition to the disadvantages, the budded plant has the following advantages:

• multiply rapidly;
• good survival of even weak cuttings;
• all types and varieties take root;
• the plant grows rapidly.

Vaccinations with weak eyes may suffer during wintering and spring floods

How to plant own rooted roses

Before planting the cuttings, prepare the soil. For self-rooted roses, light, well-drained soils rich in humus are suitable. Moisture is retained in the clay substrate, as a result, the graft or root neck rots.

The shrub loves warm regions, so the place is chosen in a sunny area or in partial shade. Clay is not thermally conductive, respectively, sand and humus are added to loamy soils. On hilly areas, southwestern slopes are chosen.

Cuttings are harvested in summer, spring and autumn 10-15 cm long

For seedlings, faded young shoots are selected. Roses are propagated and planted according to the following step-by-step instructions:

1. On cuttings, 10-15 cm long, three internodes are left.
2. The bottom of the cutting is cut at an angle of 45⁰, while 5 cm recede from the kidney, 1 cm is left on top.
3. The lower leaves are removed, and the upper ones are cut in half.
4. A substrate is prepared from sand, humus and peat in a ratio of 1:1:1. Fall asleep in a greenhouse. Lightly wet the soil.
5. Cuttings are deepened by 2 cm, leaving a distance of 5 cm between seedlings.
6. Cover with a lid and place in a warm shaded place with a temperature of 23-25 ⁰C. Periodically ventilate and moisten the soil with a spray gun.
7. Open the lid after three weeks. Seedlings are transplanted into separate pots.
8. The following year, in the spring, planting pits are prepared with a depth of 10-20 cm. Humus, peat and sand are poured onto the bottom. Mix the soil.
9. A seedling is taken out of the pots along with a clod of earth. Placed so that the root neck was 3-4 cm below the surface.
10. The seedling is buried, thoroughly watered and mulched with humus.

Root rose care

Young seedlings are fertilized in the summer once every two weeks. Roses love humus, so experienced gardeners insist manure or droppings in water 1: 1 for 10-15 days. Mineral fertilizers are also added. The rose responds well to boron, potassium and phosphorus. Fertilizers should be applied according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Excessive feeding can lead to the opposite effect, and the plant will dry out.

In autumn, faded lashes are cut off. Green rods are also removed, they did not have time to become woody and will not tolerate frost. In September-November, roses are covered with humus. Young bushes are spudded to a height of 15 cm. In the northern regions, the above-ground part is pressed to the ground and covered with a spunbond, leaving air space. Some build wooden boxes. For wintering, potash-phosphorus fertilizers are applied under the root.

In the spring, the shelter is removed gradually, when the night frosts stop, and a constant night temperature of + 5-10 is established. ⁰C. They introduce a complex of mineral fertilizers, in which there is a higher nitrogen content.

Conclusion

Grafted or own-rooted roses have a number of pros and cons. Knowing the type of reproduction, it is easier for the gardener to care for the plant. Nurseries offer customers grafted seedlings that are rapidly growing.