Phenoxyethanol: focus on this preservative in cosmetics

Phenoxyethanol: focus on this preservative in cosmetics

Cosmetic manufacturers (but not only them) use a synthetic substance as a solvent (which dissolves the substances in the composition of the product) and as an anti-microbial (which prevents infection of the skin by bacteria, viruses or a fungus). He has a bad reputation but he doesn’t deserve it.

What is phenoxyethanol?

2-Phenoxyethanol is an antibacterial and antimicrobial preservative also used as a fragrance fixing and stabilizing solvent. It exists naturally (in green tea, chicory, in particular), but it is always its synthetic version that is found in conventional cosmetics. As the name suggests, it is a glycol ether containing phenol, two strongly criticized substances.

Its only unanimously touted benefit is its power to protect the skin against all microbial infections. Its misdeeds are innumerable, but all official organizations do not speak with one voice. Some sites, particularly virulent, see all the dangers, others are more moderate.

Who are these official bodies?

Several experts have given their opinions around the world.

  • The FEBEA is the unique professional association of the cosmetics sector in France (Federation of Beauty Companies), it has existed for 1235 years and has 300 members (95% of turnover in the sector);
  • The ANSM is the National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products, whose 900 employees rely on a network of national, European and global expertise and monitoring;
  • The FDA (Food and Drug Administration) is the American body, created in 1906, responsible for food and drugs. It authorizes the marketing of drugs in the United States;
  • The CSSC (Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety) is a European entity responsible for giving its opinion on the health and safety risks of non-food products (cosmetics, toys, textiles, clothing, personal hygiene products and products for household use);
  • INCI is an international organization (International Cosmetics nomenclature Ingredients) which establishes the list of cosmetic products and their components. It was born in the United States in 1973 and provides a free application;
  • COSING is the European base for cosmetic ingredients.

What are the different opinions?

So regarding this phenoxyethanol, opinions differ:

  • FEBEA assures us that “phenoxyethanol is an effective and safe preservative for all age groups.” In December 2019, she persisted and signed, despite the opinion of the ANSM;
  • The ANSM accuses phenoxyethanol of causing “moderate to severe eye irritation.” It does not seem to present any genotoxic potential but is suspected of being toxic for reproduction and on development at high doses in animals. ” According to the agency, while the safety margin is acceptable for adults, it is insufficient for toddlers under 3 years old. Based on the results of toxicological studies, the ANSM has since continued to demand the ban of “phenoxyethanol in cosmetic products intended for the seat, whether rinsing or not; a restriction of up to 0,4% (instead of the current 1%) for all other products intended for children under 3 years of age and labeling of products containing phenoxyethanol for babies. “

In addition to the accusations of the ANSM, some people tolerate the ingredient poorly, which is why it is suspected of being irritating to the skin, of being allergenic (yet only 1 in 1 million users). Studies also suggest toxic effects on the blood and the liver and the substance is regularly suspected of being endocrine disruptor.

  • FDA, has issued warnings about a possible ingestion that could be toxic and harmful to infants. Accidental ingestion could result in diarrhea and vomiting. The American agency recommends that nursing mothers do not apply cosmetics containing phenoxyethanol to avoid accidental ingestion by the infant;

The SCCS concluded that the use of phenoxyethanol as a 1% preservative in finished cosmetic products is safe for all consumers. And in the case of the mechanism of endocrine disruption, “no hormonal effect has been demonstrated.”

Why avoid this product?

The fiercest detractors blame it for its harmfulness for:

  • The environment. Its only manufacture is polluting (requires a harmful etoxylation), it is flammable and explosive. It would be poorly biodegradable by dispersing in water, soil and air, which is highly disputed;
  • The skin. It is irritating (but mainly for sensitive skin) and supposed to cause eczema, urticaria and allergies, which is also disputed (there was one case of allergy in a million consumers);
  • Health in general. It is accused of being transformed into phenoxy-acetic acid after absorption through the skin and by this means of being endocrine disruptor, neuro and hepatotoxic, toxic for the blood, responsible for male infertility, carcinogen.

Dressed for winter as they say.

In what products is it found?

The lists are long. It would be even easier to wonder where it is not found.

  • Moisturizers, sunscreens, shampoos, perfumes, make-up preparations, soaps, hair dyes, nail polish;
  • Baby wipes, shaving creams;
  • Insect repellents, inks, resins, plastics, drugs, germicides.

You might as well read the labels before buying.

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