Main component of the hair, keratin is also one of the star active ingredients in hair care. But what is keratin? What is his role ? What about hair care products that contain it?

Keratin is a natural fibrous protein, which is the main constituent of hair. This protein is made by keratinocytes – the main cells of the epidermis – which are born in the deep part of the epidermis, then gradually rise to its surface where they die. It is during this migration that the keratinocytes produce keratin, which constitutes almost 97% of the integuments – nails, body hair and hair. In order to be properly synthesized and delivered to the hairline, keratin needs zinc and vitamin B6.

Keratin is only synthesized once in the life of a hair, so it needs to be protected.

Keratin is a structural protein, it is in a way the glue of the hair. In the outer part of the hair, the keratin is arranged in scales stacked on top of each other: it is the insulating and protective part of the hair. It gives it strength and resistance. Keratin is also responsible for the elasticity of the hair, which is essential so that it does not break at the slightest pull. Healthy, keratin-rich hair can stretch 25-30% without breaking. Finally, keratin gives the hair its plasticity, namely the ability to retain the shape given to it. Thus, a damaged hair and depleted in elastin will have difficulty in being shaped during a brushing.

Keratin is only synthesized once in the life of the hair and it does not renew itself naturally. It is therefore essential to protect this precious structural protein if we want our hair to maintain its shine and its health.

Among the causes of alteration of keratin:

• too much heat from the hair dryer or straightener;
• colorings or discolorations;
• perms;
• UV rays;
• Pollution ;
• sea ​​or swimming pool water;
• limestone, etc.

Hair with altered keratin is less shiny, dry and dull. They have lost their elasticity and tend to break when styling or brushing.

Also, they are more difficult to brush and the brushing lasts less.

The keratin which is used in cosmetology is said to be hydrolyzed, because it is obtained by an enzymatic hydrolysis process which preserves the amino acids it contains. It can be of animal origin – and for example extracted from sheep’s wool – or of vegetable origin – and extracted from proteins of wheat, corn and soya.

Hair products enriched with keratin are effective in strengthening hair by filling in the gaps in the fiber. They nevertheless act fairly superficially, on the surface of the hair. They can be used daily in cure of three weeks, after a significant aggression: discoloration, permanent or after the summer holidays and the intensive exposure to salt, to the sun.

When keratin is applied deep into the hair, using more concentrated products and more precise techniques, it acts more effectively on the texture of the hair.

Brazilian smoothing

Keratin is the star active ingredient of the famous Brazilian straightening, used to relax the fiber of frizzy, frizzy, curly or just unruly hair and give it a smooth and shiny appearance.

It provides in-depth care to damaged hair because its formulation is much more concentrated in keratin than that of cosmetics found in supermarkets or drugstores. Its smoothing and disciplining effect lasts on average 4 to 6 months.

Brazilian straightening is done in three steps:

• first of all the hair is carefully washed to be rid of all impurities;
• then, the product is applied to damp hair, strand by strand, without touching the root and distributed uniformly over the entire length of the hair. The product is left to act for ¼ of an hour under the heating cap, before drying the hair;
• last step: the hair is straightened using heating plates.

Hair botox

Second professional treatment that gives pride of place to keratin, hair botox aims to give hair a second youth. The principle is more or less the same as the Brazilian smoothing, the smoothing step less. The idea is to strengthen the fiber, leaving flexibility to the hair.

Hair botox combines hyaluronic acid with keratin.

Its effect lasts about a month to a month and a half.