This drink helped win the war with Napoleon, is mentioned in the works of Tolstoy, Turgenev, Goncharov, Pushkin, Herzen and Lermontov drank it, Gogol liked to cook it. We are talking about zhzhenka – a hot mixture of white wine, champagne, rum (cognac), fruits, spices and sugar, which in the XNUMXth century was one of the most popular alcoholic drinks of the wealthy classes of Russia.
Burnt punch differs from punch in that part of the sugar is not added together with other ingredients before heating, but is laid out on a grate, poured over with rum and set on fire. Melted (burnt) sugar gradually flows into the main brew.
The classic recipe for zhzhenka
Adapted to modern conditions, the variant mentioned in the book “Batman for the Cook” (a cookbook for the military) of 1914 edition.
Ingredients:
- rum (cognac) – 0,5 liters (1 bottle);
- champagne – 1,5 liters (2 bottles);
- Sauternes (sweet white wine) – 0,75 liters (1 bottle);
- medium sized pineapple – 1 piece;
- granulated sugar – 700 grams;
- refined sugar – 200 grams.
Other fruits (lemons, oranges, sour apples) and spices to taste can be added to the composition, for example, cinnamon sticks, vanilla, clove buds, allspice, etc.
Preparation
1. Cut the pineapple into small pieces along with the peel.
2. Mix wine, champagne, granulated sugar, pineapple slices (other fruits and spices) in a large saucepan.
3. Heat the mixture over low heat to about 65-70°C, boil for 10-15 minutes without boiling. Turn off the fire, you can remove the pan from the stove.
4. Install a metal grate over the pan or fold two kebab skewers crosswise (the hussars used sabers).
5. Put the refined sugar on the structure, pour over rum (cognac) at room temperature, set fire to it.
6. Periodically pour sugar over rum so that the burning does not stop until all the refined sugar has melted.
7. Pour the rest of the rum into the drink, mix.
8. Ready zhzhenka is drunk only hot from mugs or glasses, standing up according to the hussar tradition.
Historical reference. It is believed that the hussars brought the hussars to Russia after the war with Napoleon in 1812. But in Europe there are no similar drinks (in terms of composition and preparation technology). It is possible that the hussars themselves came up with the zhzhenka in field conditions to keep warm in cold weather, mixing and heating captured alcohol. Zhzhenka was an excellent remedy for colds, drunkenness dulled the fear of battle, and burning sugar on combat sabers cheered up.
After returning to their homeland, the officers yearned for camping romance. To remember the old days, they began to make zhzhenka in peacetime, inventing new traditions. For example, in many hussar regiments, the drink was brewed during the initiation of cornets into officers.
The preparation was entrusted to the oldest hussar, who knew a lot about this matter. Each regiment had its own “signature” recipe and special expensive silver dishes with patterns and engravings. Only after drinking zhzhenka with senior comrades, young officers were considered accepted into the regimental family. Also, the hussars cooked zhzhenka for other holidays or just to make it more interesting to play cards. The cauldron was installed directly on the parade ground or in the officer’s canteen.
Thanks to a peculiar method of preparation, the drink took root in other rich estates of Russia, who could buy expensive ingredients. Students cooked zhzhenka at friendly gatherings, nobles and writers at family holidays. According to the memoirs of contemporaries, Gogol cooked the burnt stew very well, accompanying the process with jokes, and Pushkin, after a few glasses, challenged his friends to a duel, but forgot everything in the morning 🙂. Sometimes the drink was served even at official events.
By the beginning of the 1917th century, zhzhenka gave way to other alcoholic beverages, and after the October Revolution of XNUMX, it was completely forgotten. Now interest in old recipes is reviving again, fortunately, the components of the drink have become cheaper and more accessible.
