Today, the cosmetics industry is developing at a rapid pace. Every month there are innovative means, devices and procedures that promise eternal beauty, harmony and youth. But how much should these promises be trusted?
For the anniversary of the Intercharm exhibition, its organizers published a book – “25 years of the beauty industry in Russia”. In fact, this is a collection of interviews with the “elders” of the Russian beauty industry. Those who stood at its origins and diligently developed all these years. They remember differently. But they agree on one thing: the awareness and exactingness of the consumer today have grown significantly.
“Russian buyers have gone from ignorance to professionalism,” says Mikhail Shchedrin, Marketing Director of L’Etoile perfumery and cosmetics stores. — Cinderellas, not versed in cosmetics, have become princesses, whose dressing tables are filled with the most modern means. Add to this the many bloggers disclosing their purchases and trying certain products. It seems to me that Russian buyers are generally the most demanding, constantly checking manufacturers for compliance with the declared properties.”
Indeed, representatives of major brands are never tired of being surprised that when buying a cream, we are not satisfied with the inscription on the top or side of the box, but turn it over, studying the composition in detail. And woe to that consultant who cannot explain the purpose of this or that component.
suspicious case
Why are we so biased and distrustful? Yes, they just often “burned themselves in milk”. The beauty industry in our country developed rapidly, the legislation did not keep up with it. This was used by many charlatans.
“20-25 years ago, cosmetic services were provided in ordinary hairdressers,” recalls Natalia Manturova, chief plastic surgeon of the Ministry of Health of the Russian Federation. – In the price list of every second beauty salon there was a procedure for the introduction of stem cells. Freely sold creams with the same “miraculous” stem cells. Now we work with certified preparations – fillers, threads. Cosmetology is based on evidence-based medicine, and its horizons are constantly expanding.”
So it is, but it’s still difficult for the end consumer to believe in it. We distrust the words of consultants and cosmetologists, even eminent ones, we suspect them of trying to make money on our beauty dream. At the same time, we unconditionally believe the opinion of beauty bloggers and other pseudo-pros who have come from nowhere. And they know perfectly well that nothing increases popularity like a scandal. And they invent all sorts of “horror stories” on the go, under the guise of glorifying those brands that generously pay for such advertising.
But it’s not about that now. And about who and what to believe in the beauty world.
Experienced
Are cosmetic test results credible? Or is it still a publicity stunt?
Today, manufacturers have a whole range of tools aimed at concretizing the results obtained. Tests “before and after” are formed after a survey of consumers, clinical trials are carried out by dermatologists, and the result of exposure to the skin is evaluated by biometric technologies. Some brands do all sorts of tests to get more accurate data.
Can manufacturers provide us with false information? Theoretically, this is possible, but not very profitable for them. Cosmetics are less tested than medicines, but the competition is so high that brands are really interested in the effect, that is, in the consumer’s trust, his attachment to the brand.
“In case of fraud, they will deal with anti-fraud authorities, and this will destroy the reputation of the company,” Jean-Paul Marty, a well-known French cosmetologist, clarifies. Everything is so, but there are nuances. Usually – in tests of cosmetics. All volunteers are paid for them, albeit a little. Therefore, poor, often unemployed women, whose skin and hair are in a deplorable state, agree to take part in the experiments. And, of course, their quality improves already from the fact that regular care has appeared.
Of course, there are profound changes. But their severity on the skin of a well-groomed woman will be much less than that of the one who participated in the test. This does not mean that research results cannot be trusted. It’s just worth dividing the promises by two, or even by three. But one should not fall into complete beauty nihilism either. Believe me, every news in the world of beauty falls under a magnifying glass, both from competing brands and from the aforementioned enthusiasts from the people. And their verdicts have serious consequences.
let’s wait
“I dream of a super cream that would always keep you fresh and young, combined with a pill that allows you to be constantly in shape,” fantasizes Edgar Shabanov, CEO of Clarins Group in Russia. He is not alone in these dreams. Almost all respondents in the collection of interviews “25 Years of the Beauty Industry in Russia” admit that their main expectation is the invention of Makropulos or Margarita cream.
But so far there are no such drugs. You will have to be patient and do not expect instant changes from a cream or procedure.
“It takes three to six months to feel the difference,” exhorts Jean-Paul Marty. – Only the use of creams based on AHA acids can give a quick result, visibly evening out the texture and tone of the skin. On the other hand, some “quick-acting” drugs have only a temporary effect. For example, express masks or lip gels with moisture-retaining ingredients instantly smooth the skin. But for one evening. The same applies to the optical particles that are part of many day corrective creams – they even out skin tone, helping to hide wrinkles and age spots, but do not eliminate their causes.
Without a shadow of a doubt
The same story with salon procedures. Many techniques allow to achieve an instant lifting effect. But this is only temporary. The same devices as Ultera, Ultraformer, etc., launch deep processes in the skin. And the result should not be expected earlier than in a few weeks. But it will be pronounced and will remain for a long time.
The exception is injections. Their results are visible in a couple of days. The main thing is not to be afraid and not to delay. “Wrinkles are easier to prevent than to treat. When there are already wrinkles on the face, ptosis of the third and fourth degree, injections will not change much. But to correct the emerging nasolabial folds or creases on the forehead and bridge of the nose in time means to postpone the problem of age-related changes, ”says Maya Samoilova, cosmetologist at the TORI Clinic of Aesthetic Medicine.
“I would like to dispel the common myth about the“ replanting ”on botulinum toxin,” she continues. “Nothing bad will happen to you!” Botox is not only prevention, but also getting rid of wrinkles.
So let’s try to cast aside doubts and believe in the abilities of cosmetic industry specialists. After all, they received an excellent education, experience, they love their work and sincerely strive to do the maximum for our beauty. Moreover, today they have all the possibilities for this.