Why skin needs ferulic acid

With the advent of spring and summer, the active sun returns to our lives. This means that many again remember about sunscreen cosmetics, because it is well known that ultraviolet radiation accelerates skin aging, pigment spots and wrinkles appear on it. What must be in a UV protection cream for it to be truly effective? You can sometimes hear that ferulic acid creates the maximum protection for the skin. Manufacturers and advertising say that this substance is almost a panacea for all skin problems, especially aging. Today we will carefully analyze what ferulic acid is, how it affects the skin and whether it affects it at all.

Ferulic acid: what is it

Ferulic acid is a plant-derived antioxidant commonly seen on the ingredient list of anti-aging skincare products. It is also known to chemists as 4-hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamic acid. This polyphenolic compound is a derivative of cinnamic acid, it is highly soluble in water and alcohol. This substance got its name due to the ferula plant, which actually contains it. In addition, it is present in many grains, especially wheat, amaranth, brown rice and oats, nuts, coffee, beets, eggplant, citrus fruits, apple seeds, pineapples, as well as in the bark, seeds and green parts of conifers. By the way, for plants, ferulic acid is a very important component, since it is responsible for the strength of the cell membrane, protects against overly active sun and pathogenic microorganisms.

Ferulic acid has an anti-inflammatory effect, and as an antioxidant it can protect against ultraviolet radiation. It inhibits the production of melanin in the skin, thereby slowing down the appearance of pigmentation, and also creates a depigmenting effect of medium intensity. In cosmetology, it is known as a substance that can prolong youth.

For cosmetic purposes, it is usually used in the form of a yellowish powder. By the way, on product labels this substance can be found under several names, most often – natural or natural ferulic acid, or trans-ferulic acid. Both names refer to the same ingredient, the difference between them is only in the scope of this substance. Trans-ferulic acid is most often seen in the list of ingredients in dietary supplements intended to improve skin condition, and natural ferulic acid in cosmetic products, usually with an anti-aging effect.

Ferulic acid properties

According to a 2002 Japanese study, this substance is able to seek out and destroy several types of free radicals in the body, including superoxides, hydroxyl radicals, nitrogen oxides. ^[1].

In 2004, Italian experts, based on the results of several studies, concluded that this ferulic acid is a more powerful antioxidant than alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E), beta-carotene and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) ^[2]. And researchers from Duke University (North Carolina, USA) found that it acts synergistically (enhances the effect) on other antioxidants, including vitamins C and E. ^[3]. Ferulic acid is believed to improve health and prevent certain diseases. In addition, it is used as a skin care product. ^[4][5].

How does it affect the skin

Ferulic acid is the active ingredient in many anti-aging serums. This substance is able to resist free radicals, thereby slowing down the aging process of the body.

Free radicals are particles that are formed, for example, due to a violation of the structure of molecules. They are able to damage other molecules in the body, thereby creating a kind of chain reaction. Collagen can become part of this reaction, and its destruction is the main cause of wrinkles. In addition, free radicals can cause hyperpigmentation and skin irritation. And ferulic substance, on the contrary, prevents these processes.

In cosmetics, ferulic compound is usually present along with vitamin C, which is also often added to anti-aging cosmetics. But ascorbic acid itself is a very unstable substance that quickly breaks down, especially under the influence of the sun. By the way, this is why products containing vitamin C are usually produced in opaque containers or in dark glass. Ferulic acid stabilizes vitamin C, making it less sensitive to oxygen, heat and UV radiation. ^[3].

A 2005 study showed that ferulic acid, when combined with vitamins C and E, provides double the amount of photoprotection for the skin, which is why this combination of ingredients is often added to sunscreens. The study authors also noted that this combination of chemicals slowed down photoaging, the age-related changes in the skin caused by regular sun exposure. In addition, ferulic acid is believed to reduce the risk of skin cancer.

In 2008, scientists conducted an experiment with the participation of 10 volunteers. It turned out that a mixture of antioxidants, consisting of vitamin C, ferulic acid and phloretin (a flavonoid found in the bark and fruits of apple trees), effectively protects the skin from ultraviolet radiation. By the way, some experts have suggested that exposure to ultraviolet light only increases the antioxidant properties of the ferulic substance.

As you know, the aging process of the skin is affected by many factors, including poor ecology, chronic stress, unhealthy diet. In such cases, ferulic acid will also help slow down aging. It is beneficial for the skin of people who suffer from insomnia or chronic inflammation. These factors contribute to the formation of free radicals in the body and damage to DNA, which ultimately leads to too early wrinkles and rapid fading. And ferulic acid helps to slow down these processes.

It is worth adding that it moisturizes the skin well and stimulates the synthesis of collagen and elastin fibers, thereby restoring the tissue. This substance is also useful for redness of the skin. In this case, it acts as a sedative and anti-inflammatory agent.

Ferulic acid gives the most noticeable effect when applied topically. In cosmetology, it is commonly added to sunscreen products, anti-wrinkle creams, lotions, face masks, body scrubs, acne, and seborrhea products. Antiperspirants may contain a synthetic form of this acid. ^[4][5]. As a rule, its concentration in cosmetic products is from 0,5 to 1%.

To enhance the effect of cosmetic products based on ferulic acid, it is also useful to use products containing this substance. Although it is unlikely that it will be possible to achieve cardinal improvements in the condition of the skin with a diet alone, the body will certainly feel certain benefits from such food.

Professional use of ferulic acid in cosmetology

Due to its wide range of effects on the skin, ferulic acid is often used during professional cosmetic procedures. Cosmetologists usually use this acid at a concentration of 12% (sometimes 30%), as well as in combination with florentine, hyaluronic acid, vitamins E and C. By the way, if earlier this substance was introduced into cosmetics in a combination of alcohol or other solvents, then modern biotechnologies allow create cosmetic products without additional solvents.

One of the most popular procedures using ferulic substance is acid peeling. It is intended for skin with signs of photoaging (pigment spots, wrinkles), which has lost firmness, elasticity, natural color, as well as in the presence of acne, acne, melasma, freckles and seborrhea. But a few days before ferul peeling, you can not use self-tanning, go to the solarium or do hair removal. And after the procedure, it is necessary to apply creams with increased UV protection.

Peeling is done as follows: first, the skin should be thoroughly degreased, then apply a layer of ferulic acid on it with massage movements and leave until a white film mask appears. It can stay on the body from 1 to 10 hours (depending on the condition of the skin). After that, the agent is washed off.

Peeling with ferulic acid is contraindicated in the presence of skin irritations, as well as in persons taking preparations based on vitamin A. It is better not to perform the procedure for pregnant and lactating women.

In addition, ferulic acid is used in mesotherapy, where this substance activates skin regeneration processes, strengthens elastin and collagen fibers. ^[4][5][6].

Other beneficial properties for the body

Although ferulic acid is mainly used for skin care, scientists still remind that it has other properties that are beneficial to the human body.

It is believed that ferulic acid in the form of a dietary supplement may be useful for people with osteoporosis and menopausal women (reduces hot flashes), as well as for the prevention of cancer and Alzheimer’s disease.

According to studies conducted by Americans in 2002, ferulic acid helps lower blood pressure. A lab test done on mice showed that this compound causes the blood vessels to dilate, reducing pressure in them. And in 2013, experts found evidence that ferulic acid improves the structure and functionality of the heart, blood vessels, liver and kidneys, especially in the presence of a history of high blood pressure. These experiments were also carried out on rodents, however, experts suggest that this substance has a similar effect in the human body.

After conducting experiments on mice, scientists also hypothesized that ferulic acid may be useful in the treatment of diabetes. This compound appears to help regulate blood sugar levels. Later, another interesting pattern was discovered. Ferulic acid combined with resveratrol reduced liver, kidney and pancreas damage in diabetic mice. Experts explain this effect by the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of the mentioned substances.

In addition, ferulic compound is used as a preservative in the food industry and as a component of some drugs. It is also used by athletes who want to increase muscle mass. However, due to the lack of sufficient information about the effect of ferulic acid on the human body, experts warn against prolonged or regular use of nutritional supplements containing it. To avoid complications or unwanted side effects, this substance should not be used for the self-treatment of diabetes mellitus or cardiovascular disorders. ^[5].

Harm and side effects of ferulic acid

In general, ferulic acid is safe for most skin types. However, people with very sensitive skin are advised to try out a small amount of a product containing this compound first. Some people may experience an allergic reaction after contact with this substance. As a rule, the culprit of the allergy is a natural source of ferulic acid. For example, if a person is allergic to bran, then they may also have an adverse reaction to the acid obtained from this plant source.

The use of cosmetics containing ferulic acid can cause side effects in some people in the form of:

• redness of the skin;
• rashes;
• urticaria;
• itching;
• peeling.

Ferulic acid has found wide application in the field of cosmetology. Considering its useful properties, this is not surprising. Nevertheless, scientists warn against the uncontrolled use of dietary supplements containing this component. ^[4].

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