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Electricians distinguish many reasons for knocking out the machine – a switch malfunction, a large load, a short circuit in the network, etc. Each situation is considered individually, taking into account the type of load, the time of shutdown and the circumstances of the incident.
Below we consider the main reasons why the circuit breaker knocks out, and we will also analyze special cases of shutdown – for a washing machine, stove, light bulb, water heater and other electrical appliances.
Common reasons why the machine knocks out
In theory, a circuit breaker (AB) is a device designed to protect a certain section of the network from high currents and, as a result, damage to wiring and electrical equipment. Below we consider the reasons why the machine can knock out.
Overload
As a rule, the machine cuts down after some time due to an overload in the electrical network.
Each circuit breaker is designed for a certain operating current, for example, 6, 10, 16 or 25 A. This is the maximum load at which the circuit breaker normally performs its task.
As soon as the current in the network increases, the thermal element also feels it. At a certain point, it works, and the machine turns off. The greater the load current, the faster the circuit breaker turns off.
Let’s consider an example in practice. At the entrance to the apartment, AB C 16 is installed, designed for 16 A. The voltage in the household network is 220 V, so the maximum power for connection is 2,52 kW. This load is consumed by a boiler and an electric kettle.
If a person also turns on the washing machine, the current will increase to 18-20 A. After a few seconds, the thermal element will work, and the machine will turn off the mains power.
The problem is solved in one of the following ways:
- Alternate switching on of powerful electrical appliances. For example, first you washed, then stroked, etc. It is not desirable that several powerful current consumers work in the apartment at the same time.
- Replacing the wiring with a more powerful one or installing another circuit breaker. If a 2,5 “square” copper wire is laid in the apartment, it will be enough for 16 A (aluminum conductors) and 20 A (copper conductors). This means that the maximum current of the machine that can be set is 16 amperes. If you need to put AB C 50 or higher, you will have to change the wiring, because the old wires will not withstand the load.
Please note that when the machine is disconnected from the thermal element, it will not turn on immediately. You will have to wait a few minutes until the bimetallic plate returns to its previous position.
Equipment breakdown
If the machine knocks out when you turn on certain household appliances, for example, a washing machine or boiler, the cause may be a malfunction of this equipment.
In order to confirm or, conversely, refute the fears, it is necessary to turn off the “suspicious” equipment and turn on the machine again. If he stopped beating, the reason is found.
To determine the broken equipment, you can connect electrical receivers in turn until the machine knocks out. As soon as the problematic equipment is found, it must be returned for repair.
Short circuit in wires
Another reason why the machine knocks out is damage to the wiring and, as a result, a short circuit. In a household network, a short circuit is a touch of the phase and neutral wires.
As a result, the current flowing in the circuit increases tenfold (depending on the power of the power source). Sometimes such a shutdown occurs with sparks.
To identify the cause of the damage, it is necessary to disassemble the switches and sockets, inspect them for the fact of destruction and damage. Dangling wires must be secured. Damaged sections of the wiring must be insulated, because they can lead to a short circuit in the system.
After examining the boxes, move on to the lighting fixtures. Here also check the connections and make sure there is no damage to the wiring.
At the last stage, the integrity of the wires embedded in the wall is checked. For this, a special device is used to find the place of the break. Unfortunately, there are no devices for finding a short circuit in a wall with wires for 220 V.
But you can use the following advice:
- Turn off all consumers from the sockets and turn off the bag;
- Take a multimeter, set the ringing mode (up to 200 ohms) and ring all sockets;
- Make a diagram in which sockets there is a short circuit. In this way, it is possible to identify the section of wiring in the wall where there is a short circuit.
But modern circuit breakers can turn off for other reasons:
- For example, in the packet phase, there is poor contact and even when the refrigerator is turned on, it turns off. The reason is that sharp voltage surges occur in the phase, especially when loaded with a large inductance.
- If “ground” is connected to zero.
If you can’t find it, open the boxes and measure the voltage (resistance) with a multimeter. In the absence of the necessary experience, it is better to call an electrician who will quickly determine the location of the malfunction.
Breakdown of the machine
Sometimes the circuit breaker knocks out due to the failure of the device itself. For example, a person put a machine gun, but it turned out to be defective.
If the integrity of the wiring and equipment is not in doubt, pay attention to the condition of the device and replace it if necessary.
If an AV defect is noticed before the warranty period expires, the device can be replaced at the place of purchase.
See also:
Additional reasons
In everyday life, there are other possible reasons why the machine knocks out in the dashboard of an apartment or house. Shutdown can occur when the incandescent bulb burns out.
At this point, a large current flows through the AB, which leads to an instant shutdown. Sometimes the machine knocks out when voltage is applied to the stabilizer, which does not fit the allowable load current.
A common cause is an error in the connection of the circuit breaker.
AB can knock out with a weak pull of the terminals, due to which the device heats up and the thermal element is triggered. In this case, the plastic housing may melt. If this happens, replace the machine with a new device.
Another reason is force majeure, for example, flooding in an apartment or house. In such situations, the wiring is in the water, which increases the likelihood of a short circuit.
After eliminating the consequences of the flood, it is advisable to make an audit and check all junctions.
Why does the machine knock out in the shield: special cases
For a better understanding, consider the issue of shutdown in relation to different situations.
Washing machine
When buying and connecting a washing machine, it is necessary to take into account the power consumed by it. The amount of current consumed when heating water up to 90 degrees can reach 10 amperes. That is why, when you turn on the “washer”, the machine can knock out due to a banal overload.
But there are other reasons why the machine knocks out in the shield. They are associated with equipment failure.
The main defects of the washing machine, which can lead to the shutdown of the AB:
- TENA failure. During washing, the heating element is in the water, where the powder and particles of things from the drum are dissolved. Such an impact negatively affects the surface. The shell is gradually corroded, and moisture gets on the main spiral. The result is a short circuit. The only solution in such circumstances is the installation of a new heating element.
- Failure of the control board. Like other elements of the washing machine, the control board is exposed to moisture. Oxidative processes occur on the contacts, which eventually leads to short circuit and AP shutdown. If such a malfunction is detected, the board must be replaced or repaired.
- Motor failure. No less a source of risk in a washing machine is the engine. With deterioration of tightness or aging, water enters it. The result is a short circuit. The machine in the shield reacts to a sharp increase in current and immediately knocks out. If an engine failure is detected, it must be repaired or replaced.
- Power button broken. It is this element that bears the greatest load during operation. Over the years, the contacts wear out, and due to high humidity, the risk of their oxidation increases. Against this background, the probability of short circuit and knockout of AB increases. In this case, you need to change the button or make a revision.
It is impossible to dismiss other reasons why the machine knocks out at the moment the washing machine is turned on. The cause may be a damaged outlet or a short circuit in the power cord of the device.
Disabling the machine in the panel without load and under load
There are even strange situations when the machine in the shield knocks out without load. The device appears to be in good working order. There are several possible reasons for this:
- malfunction of the circuit breaker;
- errors in AB connection;
- short circuit in the network between the AB and sockets or light switches.
To fix the problem, it is necessary to inspect the wiring for damage, assess the condition of the sockets and pay attention to the fact that the machine is in good condition.
When you turn on the light
Often there are situations when, at the moment the light is turned on, the machine in the input panel knocks out. In this case, the entire apartment or house remains without tension.
The main reason is the burning of an incandescent bulb or a short circuit in its base.
To diagnose a breakdown, you must unscrew each lamp and look at its condition. Another possible reason is a burnt contact in the switch.
In addition, modern chandeliers often have a 12-volt transformer included in the design of the device. Sometimes it fails, because of which the machine in the shield knocks out.
We can not exclude the standard situation – network congestion. With a small rating of AB (6, 10 A), the probability of operation is high.
Such a problem is excluded if LED or fluorescent light bulbs are installed in the apartment or house. The reason for knocking out can also be the machine itself, which is incorrectly connected or out of order.
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When turning on the stove
Another situation when the machine knocks out when the stove is turned on. The following reasons are possible here:
- Breakdown of the circuit breaker (resolved by replacement).
- Failure of the network connection connector in the stove itself. In the absence of experience to eliminate the breakdown, it is better to contact specialists.
- Wiring problems due to short circuit or higher currents.
- Damage to the wiring between the machine and the stove. You will need to find the damaged area and restore it.
- The key with which the operating modes are translated has failed. To replace the device, you need to call a specialist.
- Increased voltage in the household network, which can lead to a short circuit and damage to the wiring.
- Breakage of some elements of the electric stove. The result in this case is known – the machine knocks out.
If the AB knocks out when only one burner is turned on, you need to look at its power. The greatest load falls on the moment of heating, after which there is a pulse support for the temperature regime.
If the shutdown occurred due to network overload, it is easier to install a more powerful machine. In this case, the cross section of the wiring must be taken into account. For a wire of 2,5 “squares” (copper), you can set the C 16 machine, no more.
If the AB knocks out when a particular burner is turned on, it must be disassembled and the quality of the contact connections checked. Perhaps a short circuit appears somewhere, which is why the machine knocks out immediately (without a time delay). Sometimes the problem is caused by a loose wire and heat in a certain area of the connection.
Operational practice shows that a breakdown of the nichrome spiral on the body can occur inside the burner. To fix the problem, you may need to purchase a new heating element and replace it. In the absence of experience, it is better to entrust this matter to an experienced master.
See also:
When a light bulb burns out
At the moment of burning the incandescent light bulb, the machine in the shield often knocks out. This is due to the rapid splitting of the spiral, due to which an arc appears between the current-carrying elements of the lamp. The machine reacts to the situation as if it were a short circuit.
In high quality bulbs, a fuse was previously installed, which created the necessary time delay. As a result, AV did not turn off. In cheap light bulbs, such a device is no longer available.
When the water heater is turned on
It so happened that a water heater is one of the most powerful consumers in an apartment or house. When it is turned on, a situation may arise when the machine knocks out.
The reasons may be as follows:
- Increasing the load above the permissible norm. When buying a water heater, it is necessary to take into account the rated current of the machine installed on the shield and the power of the device being purchased. For example, if AB C16 is installed on the apartment, it is better to put a separate 6 A switch on the water heater in order to avoid accidental shutdowns from overload.
- Machine breakdown. AB may falsely work if there are low-quality spare parts or improper connection. In addition, the machine sometimes knocks out due to loosening of the contacts. It is possible that the rated AB current indicated on the case does not correspond to the real parameter.
- Electrical heater failure. Sometimes a shutdown occurs due to a breakdown of the electric heater. In this case, the machine saves people from getting under voltage or other problems. The malfunction may be associated with a short circuit inside the housing or a phase hitting one of the boiler elements. Breakage is easy to recognize by strong blows at the moment of touching the metal part of the heater.
When solving a problem, you need to consider the cause. This may be replacing the machine with a product with a high rated current, revision of contact connections or wiring, repairing a boiler or purchasing new equipment.
When you turn on the electric kettle.
When the well is turned on
When using a borehole pump, there are situations when, at the moment it is turned on, the machine in the shield knocks out or turns off with a certain time delay. In this case, the pump stops and does not supply water.
Experts identify several reasons:
- The windings in the pump motor burned out. It is no secret that the quality of the product depends on the price. Budget models do not serve for a long time and fail after 1-2 years of operation (sometimes less). Some devices burn out quickly due to damage to the automation, for example, due to a pressure switch wedge. In the event of damage, it cannot turn off the pump, which runs without stopping and eventually burns out.
- The supply cable, through which voltage is supplied to the well, is damaged. For example, the wire can fray, which causes a short circuit. At the same time, the pump itself is in good condition and, after replacing the cable, continues to perform the tasks assigned to it. There are cases when the cable turned out to be defective at all.
- Water got into the block where the wires are connected (located on the well body). As a rule, the problem occurs in the spring when the snow melts.
When the machine is knocked out at the moment the well is turned on, one should not rush to replace the device. Perhaps the reason lies in something else.
RCD trip
In the 220 and 380 Volt Network, an RCD is often installed – a device that turns off the circuit when a leak is detected.
Its principle is to reconcile the input and output current parameters. If the data differs, the RCD trips and turns off the section. The reasons for turning off the RCD can be the following:
- the element of the “Test” button is out of order;
- the RCD activation lever is broken;
- a leakage current appeared inside the RCD casing;
- there was a visibility of leakage current in non-standard equipment;
- connection errors.
In normal mode, the operation of the RCD is caused by a voltage breakdown on the casing of the electrical receiver or a person getting energized.
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Knocked out and won’t turn on
If the machine knocked out a thermal element due to high load and overheating, it will not work right away. It is necessary to wait for some time for the plate to return to its original place.
Another situation is also possible – mechanical problems with the AB or failure. If the mechanical part is beyond repair, the machine will have to be changed.