Contents
What real bonuses does it give us? Do you really need to use it every day, as advertised? Should we expect the effect that the beauty industry promises us? Dermatologist Elena Fuflygina and cosmetologist Jean-Paul Marty answer.
Using creams has become a habit with us. In summer, even in the heat, we need them especially – to protect ourselves from the sun and save ourselves from dehydration. We expect pleasure from them … and lightning-fast results. And we believe in a lot. How reasonable are our expectations?
Psychologies: Can a cream actually prevent some of the signs of skin aging?
Yes, but do not think that it is only about anti-aging cosmetics. What is very important is to protect the skin from the harmful effects of sunlight. And also to combine the use of cosmetics with a healthy lifestyle, a balanced diet rich in vitamins, proteins and antioxidants, with the restriction of tobacco and alcohol – all this leads to a slowdown in the aging process. Those who doubt can compare the skin of our mothers with the skin of our great-grandmothers: two generations ago, the signs of age in women were much more pronounced.
Can creams have regenerative properties, i.e. really turn back time?
Vitamin A and its derivatives slow down the aging process caused, for example, by ultraviolet radiation. They also stimulate cell regeneration, that is, the revival of the skin. The same applies to fruit acids (ANA). The results of in vitro and in vivo tests are encouraging, now it is up to larger studies that can convincingly show how many years visible signs of age can be delayed using such agents.
Recovery and hydration
- Balm for the restoration of skin cells Capital Soleil After Sun, Vichy, – instantly eliminates pain and burning sensation, restores the protective function of damaged cell membranes.
- Moisturizing cream-gel Hydramax + Active, Chanel, – contains active ingredients that stimulate the natural process of skin hydration.
- Moisturizing emulsion for dehydrated skin Hydrasitis SPF8, Ozon C, instantly restores moisture levels, strengthens the skin’s ecosystem and its ability to withstand external aggression.
Does moisturizing your skin every day help slow down aging?
Certainly. All biochemical processes in tissues occur with the participation of water. In dehydrated skin, intracellular metabolism slows down – nutrition and respiration of cells worsen, their release from toxins. All this cannot but affect the rate of skin regeneration, its elasticity, tone. Lack of water leads to tightness of the skin, peeling, wrinkles and creases – the signs of aging become visible much faster. Moisturizing is the bare minimum of what we can do to preserve youth.
Are treatments prescribed by a dermatologist more effective than cosmetics?
It is important to distinguish between these concepts. Medicines have a targeted effect on the skin – in order to solve a specific problem. They may have contraindications or side effects, only a doctor can correctly assess their effect. They cannot be used uncontrollably, and their scope is very narrow, specific. Another thing is cosmetics. Currently, cosmetology laboratories are working not only on the hypoallergenicity and safety of their products, but also on polysensory, that is, they strive to create products of such a composition that has a positive effect on all our senses: with the help of smell, color, texture and consistency. Recent studies confirm that the positive effect of the cream consists not only of the impact of its beneficial components, but also of the pleasant sensations and pleasure that we get in the process of care. To enhance the action of the cream with the help of sensual pleasures, manufacturers have to study the processes occurring in different parts of the cerebral cortex.
Read more:
- Why creams do not get rid of wrinkles?
Protection
- Ultra-fluid emulsion Capital Soleil SPF50 +, Vichy, is an ultra-high degree of protection, hypoallergenic, moisturizes and gives the skin a matte finish.
- All Day All Year Day Cream, Sisley, contains encapsulated sunscreens that work for more than eight hours, as well as 15 active ingredients that provide skin care and renewal.
- Sunscreen moisturizer Advanced UV Defense SPF30, SkinCeuticals, contains broad-spectrum filters (including UVA rays), hypoallergenic.
And what about the most expensive creams? Are they really better?
In fact, there is no direct relationship between the price of a product and its effectiveness. Some very expensive creams are very effective, but as for the more affordable ones, they are sometimes practically not inferior in terms of the degree of impact to luxury products. New products are not always more effective than those products that have been on sale for a long time (and new products are usually more expensive). And individual characteristics are very important: sometimes the most expensive cream may not be suitable. How to make a choice? Listen not only to the advice of cosmetologists, but also to your skin. A feeling of comfort, smoothness, elasticity, even color are signs that your skin is suitable for the “diet” chosen for it.
Do I need to use both day and night creams? Or is it just a marketing ploy?
The main thing that distinguishes them is the content of protective components in the day cream. Chemical ultraviolet filters, our undisputed ally during the day, become an unnecessary burden for the skin at night, which uses this time to rid itself of toxins, neutralize free radicals and replenish the energy reserves of cells. The night cream recipe contains just such components that help the skin solve all these problems. However, there are universal creams that can be used 24 hours, but in this case, the skin requires additional protection during the day (for example, foundation with an SPF of at least 15 units).
Correction
- Delightful Shape Body Contouring Gel, LOccitane, promises to reduce cellulite with almond, quinoa and lemon extracts.
- Perfectslim Pro lipo-drainage product, LOreal Body-Expertise, – massage and lipolytic, drainage and anti-edematous action.
- Super Restorative Redefining Body Care, Clarins Waist Reshaper – Helps prevent fat deposits and loss of skin firmness.
Are laboratory tests trustworthy?
Undoubtedly. Currently, manufacturers have a whole range of tools aimed at concretizing the results obtained. Before and after tests are carried out by interviewing consumers, clinical trials are carried out by dermatologists, and biometric technologies allow us to evaluate the results of a cosmetic product on the skin. Some brands do all sorts of tests to get more reliable results. Can manufacturers provide us with false information? Theoretically, this is possible, but not very profitable for them. Cosmetics are less tested than medicines, but the competition is so high that manufacturers are really interested in the effect, that is, in the consumer’s trust, his commitment to the brand. By cheating, they will deal with the anti-fraud authorities – this can be very damaging to the reputation of the brand.
Will the result promised by the cream manufacturers be noticeable soon?
To feel the difference, you need from three to six months – in a week you most likely will not notice obvious changes. Only the use of creams based on AHA, moisturizing and exfoliating, can give a quick result, noticeably even out the texture and color of the skin – especially if it was dull, with a thickened stratum corneum. Dehydrated and poorly protected from the weather, the skin easily restores elasticity and tone if you start to nourish it every day. On the other hand, some “quick-acting” cosmetics have only a temporary effect. For example, express masks or lip gels with moisture-retaining components instantly smooth the skin, but only for a short time – for one evening. The same applies to the optical particles that are part of many day corrective creams – they even out skin tone, helping to hide wrinkles and age spots, but do not affect their causes.
How to take care of men’s skin?
Men’s skin is slightly different from women’s. It is slightly denser, but just as sensitive to harmful effects and requires care. Now men prefer to use their own products, with a pronounced masculine scent. But this does not mean that funds for women are not suitable for them.
How to enhance its effect
It is supposed to be taken out with a special spatula, but applied with the fingers and even the whole palm, since our hands are the best tool for gentle personal care.
Here are three reasons to combine the application of the cream with a light massage: improved blood circulation allows the ingredients to quickly penetrate the skin; affectionate touches, performed slowly, consciously, help relieve psycho-emotional stress; sensual pleasure from texture, tactile sensations and aroma allows you to more fully use the emotional bonuses that the creators of the cream conceived. Some massage techniques have proven themselves so well that the schemes for their implementation are included in a box of cream. We invite you to try some of them.
Point stimulation
It is based on the Orchidee Imperiale technique, a version of Guerlain’s signature massage (this technique of lymphatic drainage and facial modeling using rhythmic pressure on certain points is seven decades old).
Equipment: perform several intense pressures on the points in the center of the chin and between the eyebrows; perform point pressure in the upper part of the forehead parallel to the growth of hair, then parallel to the eyebrows, from the center of the face to the temples. With moderate pressure, go from the wings of the nose to the cheekbones and from the corners of the eyes to the earlobes, then (easily) along the upper and lower eyelids from the bridge of the nose to the temples and from top to bottom along the nasolabial folds.
Effect: draining, smoothing, stimulating, firming.
Light tingling
It is based on the technique developed in the laboratories of Chanel (CE. RIE S) and knowledge about the structure of facial tissues from plastic surgery. Performed before applying the cream Ultra Correction, Chanel, in special gloves, it promises a powerful rejuvenating effect.
Equipment: perform deep repetitive tingling in the forehead area – always perpendicular to the direction of wrinkles from the center to the periphery. Then – short tingling perpendicular to the crease between the eyebrows. Smooth out crow’s feet and nasolabial folds with sliding pinching movements. Perform deep (stimulating) tingling in the cheekbones and complete the procedure with deep pressure from the chin to the temples along the jaw line – simultaneously with the backs of both hands, folded in a “handful”.
Effect: relieving muscle tension, smoothing wrinkles, restoring facial contours.
Smooth pressure
It is based on a rejuvenating massage technique developed by the Clarins Institute that enhances the action of the cream for the neck and décolleté.
Equipment: warm the product in the palms and apply on the neck. Then place your left hand on the right side of your neck and, pressing lightly, move it towards your shoulder. Repeat several times, then place your right hand on the left side of your neck and do the same movements. Place your hand at the base of the neck and make light pressure with the palm of your hand, moving along the entire chest to the level of the bust.
Effect: restoration of skin elasticity and tone, reduction of wrinkles.
Ekaterina Smokvina