Whether radical black or classic beige, leather is always sensual. It unmasks our instincts, bringing us back to our original nature.
Leather clothing changes our manners to such an extent that it seems that we do not wear it, but she wears us. The animal magnetism of this natural material returns to the roots, awakens the memory of hunter ancestors who did not know textiles and dressed in animal skins. Neither the emergence of innovative artificial materials, nor the efforts of the “green” are able to force humanity to completely abandon the use of this expensive, exceptionally noble raw material.
The skin is always sexy, and this property has a dual character. Brutal clothing made of dense black leather gives the wearer a resemblance to police commissioners and heroic pilots. Soft thin leather, and especially suede, is delicate and refined – in a word, feminine. Touching its silk or, conversely, velvety surface causes incredibly pleasant, almost erotic experiences. It is ambivalent, like yin and yang, it protects like armor, or fits … like a second skin.
Feeling the power
Rockers, bikers and just lovers of biker jackets and black leather jeans praise the exceptional comfort and practicality of this outfit. There are other, less obvious reasons for these preferences: they wear leather—heavy, tough, almost rigid—like armor in order to feel more protected or more powerful.
Genuine leather even wears, a noticeable patina of age that we refuse to recognize in our bodies.
“People who choose such clothes also choose a certain lifestyle, in many ways opposing themselves to society,” says social psychologist Yulia Zudina. – However, nonconformism is not the opposite, but the reverse side of conformism, that is, “loner rebels” do not care so much about the opinion of society, as they want to show. In fact, they are very vulnerable, hence the desire to shackle themselves in armor, literally on a physical level to protect themselves from the disapproval of others.
Exposing desires
The opposite of coarse black leather is the finest chevrolet, husky or suede. It is pleasant to the touch, envelops the body and flows, giving the movements a somewhat predatory grace. Or fits like a glove. “Gloves are an incredibly feminine detail,” says fashion columnist Regina Kozyreva.
Many people wear super-tight leather trousers made of the thinnest, almost glove leather, very, very tight, like leggings. “Here we see an attempt to reconcile two female aspirations,” Yulia Zudina comments. – On the one hand, the desire to flaunt oneself, to demonstrate the body, to open it to views and touches, on the other hand, to cover up shortcomings, real or imaginary. It is as if we are replacing our own, imperfect skin with another, which bears the seal “approved by leading connoisseurs of beauty”.
Genuine leather and ages beautifully. She even wears, a noticeable patina of age that we refuse to recognize in our body.
The scent of sex
Some people can hardly stand the smell of the skin, considering it too aggressive, even animal. But it is precisely this property that attracts perfumers: “I was trying to capture a powerful sensual scent reeking of horse harness,” says Jean-Paul Guerlain, recalling the process of creating Habit Rouge men’s perfume. The smell of dressed leather is set off by notes of tobacco and wood – these perfumes brought success to Guerlain.
“Leather notes give the fragrance a special sensuality,” says Elena Koltsova, Guerlain perfume expert. “Their main characteristic is strength. The power of sexual desire, bravado and recklessness. This is a perfume for the brave, both men and women. After all, many ladies choose men’s perfumes from Guerlain perfumery. And men, in turn, “wear” women’s.
According to Yulia Zudina, “human, carnal smells are the most powerful sexual stimulus. On an unconscious level, they are attractive to humans. The society, on the other hand, insists that the corporeal should be maximally leveled or hidden. Compromise is a scent that only mimics body odor.”
Leather notes are a traditional component of masculine perfumes, but celebrity perfumer Serge Lutens believes that they can be feminine: “Leather gives both strong, distinctly animal scents, as well as other, more delicate bodily scents.” In his opinion, perfumes with such an aroma glorify the skin, natural matter, which contains a special force of nature that awakens us from the anesthesia of civilization.
Why they choose to work with leather
“There are few materials left in the modern world that a person can still touch with spiritual awe. And all these materials are of natural, of course, origin: wood, stone, leather, wool, etc. The skin evokes pleasant tactile associations in me, in my opinion, this is the main thing … Well, the fabulousness of this material, its character is given to recognize and feel everyone. This is revealed to me at the moment of creating a thing. A simple example. Do you know what to do with an old, hardened piece of leather so that it softens? Hold it in your hands!”
Maxim Sharov, designer
“Leather is the most ancient human clothing. Pleasant to the touch, breathable material that easily takes the shape of the body. I am closer to her feminine incarnation – soft thin leather, suede or light-colored chevre. Modern technologies allow you to create any effects: the skin imitates tweed or becomes the thinnest lace under the action of a laser, but your sense of touch will never deceive you – you just need to feel the caressing touch of a velvety underside, reminiscent of a delicate sponge from a powder box. Working with leather is an endless tactile pleasure. I love the smell of it: when I go to the suppliers and enter the room where the skin is stored, I feel delighted. I distinguish subtle shades of fish oil, ennobled by the smell of leather, a slight smell of singed horn that occurs when the edges are burned – all this fills me with a feeling of something infinitely native, returning me to the roots – perhaps to the distant past of mankind.
Irina Derkach, designer