The streets were swept by the wave of the nineties. The behavior of the main fashion houses, which suddenly fell into memories of the most controversial era in the history of fashion, can also be explained by flirting with millennials. And what attracts us to the style of these “dashing” and at the same time bright years?
Calvin Klein pulled slip dresses from the archives, indistinguishable from underwear. Saint Laurent’s Hedi Slimane has resurrected grunge with a punchy dose of impeccable leather jackets and floral dresses. Celine, Louis Vuitton, Hermès did not stay away from this trend. The nineties seem refined in the performance of the heads of fashion houses – designers recall minimalism, rely on a cut with increased volume and linen style, but forget that that decade was daring, complex and full of contradictions. In any case, for those who were born in the USSR.
In those days, the cult of tracksuits reigned on our streets. in the most unimaginable colors, and went shopping to the other end of Moscow to the clothing markets – and if you already managed to find a T-shirt with the CK Jeans logo there, it means that in the coming year you could not worry about buying new things. In the West, the beginning of the 90s was an era of well-fed and rich, the heyday of Wall Street, feminism and men’s cut of women’s striped suits. We were torn apart by contradictions – the opened iron curtain promised brilliance, but we saw mostly poverty. Can this become the basis for a new trend? It turned out that it can.
We did not have time to look back, as bombers, combined with heavy boots and light dresses, became the uniform
Post-Soviet aesthetics suddenly interested the fastidious world of fashion – and all thanks to the French team Vetements and its creator, 35-year-old designer of Georgian origin Demna Gvasalia. In the 90s, he just grew up in one of the sleeping areas of Moscow, so he knows what he is talking about: sweatpants, T-shirts with inscriptions, grandmother’s dresses, green down jackets, sweatshirts – they look almost the same as in our country houses. But only almost – without exception, all things are sewn in Paris, and not in China, and not from polyester, but from the finest silk, soft wool and divine cashmere.
Why is this skillful stylization so loved in the West, You can understand – for many “there” Russian culture is still exotic, even if it’s not about the great constructivism or ballet, but just about street clothes. Gvasalia and his colleague, Gosha Rubchinsky, who also came from perestroika yards, skillfully got into the millennial movement. You will not be interested in such airy chiffon with bows, so give something more brutal. But the popularity of this trend in Russia is a phenomenon that at first glance defies explanation.
Sweatsuits, oversized plaid shirts – it will seem ugly to some, but there are fewer and fewer of them. Today, fashion finally allows us to be ourselves.
We didn’t have time to look back. how bombers, combined with heavy boots and light dresses, became the uniform not only at social events, but also on the streets. Even a T-shirt with the inscription DHL managed to become familiar in Russian fashion publications and on many celebrities. Gvasalia’s new project – sweatshirts with the inscription “Zemfira”, an allusion to sweatshirts from Nirvana – received such publicity that they will soon begin to queue for them, like for Birkins.
It seems that the effect of these clothes is akin to the popularity of Vladimir Sorokin’s books.– postmodernism, playing either on nostalgia or on disgust, sells very well. In the case of fashion, of course, there is more nostalgia – girls who made the nineties children buy Titanic sweatshirts or lace-up boots with special love. After all, everyone probably has a story associated with similar clothes from those times – a story that you don’t want to forget, or one that you shouldn’t forget about.
Training suits. Plain, undecorated, bras on display. Dimensionless plaid shirts – it will seem ugly to some, but there are fewer of them. Today, fashion finally allows us to be ourselves. And it’s not that feminism has won here, but rather common sense – why wear crippling red-soled shoes when your favorite Velcro sneakers from childhood look no less impressive? Clothing from the nineties is not only familiar, but also comfortable – it does not involve unnecessary embellishments and stylistic efforts, images are built according to simple formulas familiar for 20 years. So why come up with something new?
But the new is inevitable – in the company of dimensionless jeans, hoodies with inscriptions and velvet chokers, feminine things of the XNUMXst century get. We combine the daring mood of the nineties with the western minimalism of the time and add bright, one-of-a-kind accessories from Italian designers. In the end, trends change – only individuality remains.