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Automatic washing machines Burning are widely distributed not only in the Russian market, but also in the CIS countries and the European Union. The mass of innovative solutions in these washing machines is good, but there are many breakdowns from this. Therefore, the repair of Gorenje washing machines (Gorenie) is a daily concern for almost any workshop.
Read on to learn how to make repairs at home, and what breakdowns are most common for this brand.
Typical failures and breakdowns of Gorenje machines
Manufacturers of Gorenje washing machines know exactly how to make appliances desirable and attractive for every customer. Today, these SMAs are so advanced that there are even models whose tank works autonomously and does not depend on the presence of water in the water supply.
Only now we will not talk about the technical innovations and advantages of CM Gorenje, but about what are the most common malfunctions of the Gorenje washing machine, and how to fix them yourself.
The first thing you need to pay attention to is the most vulnerable spots of various models of this brand. Using statistical data freely distributed by the leading service centers of the Russian Federation, we have compiled a list of typical breakdowns that are typical for almost any Gorenje model:
- The drain pump is the most vulnerable part. It breaks in a quarter of all cars of this brand. Replacing the pump is the best solution to the problem.
- Second place went to the thermoelectric heater. The heating element breaks down in at least a third of the washers whose warranty period has expired.
- Third on the list is the water drain pipe.
- The fourth place is the motor brushes, which become unusable from frequent use and require replacement.
We give an additional fifth place to the hatch door handle – its breakdown happens in every 5th typewriter. The most important thing with such a breakdown is to find the original part for replacement.
Important! Error codes often help to determine the breakdown: F1, F2, F3, F4 and others.
Drain pump: checking and replacing the pump in the Gorenie machine
The drain pumps in the Gorenye washing machine really break down too often and wear out faster than other nodes.
Cars of this brand are characterized by increased sensitivity to water, in which there are many different impurities. Movable elements are located almost side by side, so the water stone settling on them interferes with work. Parts wear out faster, in the end, the pump fails and needs to be replaced.
Replacing or self-repairing the drain pump is as follows:
- Disconnect the appliance from the mains.
- Take out the detergent drawer. Pour out the remaining water from it, insert into place.
- Place the washer in a comfortable position.
- It is easier to get to the pump from the bottom side, so it is better to put the machine on its side.
- CM brand Gorenie are closed with lids on any side, and the bottom is no exception. Therefore, you will have to unscrew a few screws in order to gain access to the “insides” of the machine from the bottom.
- Now you need to inspect the pump, checking its serviceability. You will need a tester to measure the resistance. Disconnect the wiring and start measuring. If the tester screen shows about 160 ohms, then the pump is in order. If there are no indicators, then the pump is broken.
- Remove the pump by unscrewing the fasteners.
- Buy a new original part and install it in place of the old pump, connecting all the wiring in place.
- Attach the cover on the bottom side, restore the vertical position of the machine and run a dry wash in test mode.
For your information! If you decide to do repairs yourself, be careful when working with a tester so as not to throw out a working pump – then the problem will remain unresolved.
If you are wondering how to clean the pump filter for a Gorenje washing machine, watch the video:
Leakage of the water drain pipe in the Gorenje car
This problem can be attributed to specific breakdowns of the Gorenye brand. The specificity is that the pipes, despite their strength, often wear out in the knee area.
This usually happens for one of three reasons:
- Low quality materials. Cracks, due to which leaks occur, arise due to factory defects.
- Hitting the knee with sharp objects.
- Too aggressive chemicals for washing.
Important! Do not become a victim of advertising, which broadcast that magical means will rid the machine parts of scale and blockages. This chemistry is so aggressive that some details can suffer from it.
In such a situation, repairing the Gorenje washing machine with your own hands should begin with checking both the hoses and the pipes. Start with the drain hose – it’s easier to get to.
To check the pipe, you need to know how to disassemble the Gorenje washing machine. Access to the nozzle is also provided from the bottom, it is located next to the pump.
Proceed as follows:
- Buy a new original part.
- Twist the clamps holding the damaged old pipe.
- Remove the tube.
- Install a new one, fasten the clamps, assemble and turn the washer over.
Attention! When installing a new pipe, ensure the tightness of all connections. But do not overtighten the clamps too much, so as not to damage the part.
Peregorel TÉN in Gorenje machines: inspection and replacement
A heating element is a vulnerable node of any machine, including the Gorenie brand. The heater breaks for a number of reasons:
- Hard water with heavy impurities, which are deposited in the form of water stone on the thermoelectric heater. A thick layer of scale does not allow the heat generated by the heater to pass through, so it burns out.
- Voltage fluctuations in the network.
- Features of use – improper shutdown of the machine, washing at high temperatures, etc.
In general, if your SM has stopped heating water, and you want to repair the automatic machine with your own hands, you need to start by checking the heater – it may even have to be replaced.
Work is carried out in the following order:
Attention! If the heating element is not broken, but the water is not heated, check the temperature sensor (it is located on the heater) and the wires coming from it.
Consider how to remove the old heating element from under the drum:
- Remove. You will find the nut between the two heater pins – right in the middle.
- Press the pliers on the mount to remove the heating element. But do not overdo it so as not to break other parts.
- Grab the contacts and loosen the heating element, pull the part towards you. If everything is really bad, and the heating element sits very tightly, use a universal lubricant, like WD-40, and swing the heater again – it should give in.
- Having taken out the old heating element, do not rush to install a new one. Use your fingers (preferably with gloves) to clean the hole in which the heating element was located – at the bottom of the tank you will find a whole mountain of debris, especially if your typewriter is not the first year.
- Now put in the new part. Insert the heating element into the groove and check if it is tightly seated.
Important! Together with the heater, the craftsmen advise changing the rubber gasket as well.
- Tighten the nut, but not too much so as not to strip the threads.
- Replace the wires, put the drive belt on the pulley.
- Close the hatch, put the washer back in place, connect to all systems and turn on the test wash.
Wear of brushes in the Gorenie machine
The wear of the engine brushes is an equally rare breakdown for Gorenie brand washers. It can be identified by the following signs:
- The power of the engine is significantly reduced, so the drum starts to rotate slowly.
- There may be an unpleasant smell of burnt rubber coming from the machine. When washing, when the engine turns on, you can hear a crackling sound.
- Brush wear is often recognized by the self-diagnosis system. In this case, the display shows fault code F4.
Repair of washing machines Combustion in this case is to check the engine. In 8 out of 10 cases, the problem is in it. The check should be done as follows:
- Open the hatch located on the back of the machine.
- Under the drum you will find the motor.
- Remove the drive belt so that it does not interfere with the test.
- Remove the bolts that hold the engine.
- Bypass the SMA and remove the powder receptacle, drain the waste water and reinstall the cuvette.
- Lay the washer on its side, remove the bottom.
- Remove the wiring from the engine.
- With a strong and precise movement, pull the engine from its seat.
- Now your task is to remove the brushes and inspect them. If the brushes are worn out, you will definitely not confuse them with new ones. Old brushes are too shabby, worn out and smell of burning from them.
- After making sure that the brushes have become unusable, install new ones.
- “Plant” the engine and bring the wiring.
- Close the bottom with a panel.
Important! The engine must be installed all the way so that there are no breakdowns in the future.
- Put the machine in working position.
- Install the engine bolts at the back.
- Replace the drive belt by putting it on the pulley.
- Reinstall and screw on the service hatch.
- Connect the automatic machine to communications and start a test wash. You did it!
If you are interested in other breakdowns, for example, how to disassemble the washing machine door, read more about this in our other materials.
Also, the video will help you with the repair: