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Things do not wash well in cold water, so if you notice that the heating element does not heat up in the washing machine, you need to urgently replace it. How to find a breakdown and return the correct temperature regime, we will consider in the article. Washing in cold water can take place for several reasons – we list the signs that give out a malfunction of the heating element.
Why the heating element does not heat up, but it works
The reason that the water heating does not work may be not only the heater itself. There are quite simple problems:
- Wrong connection. It happens when the hoses are positioned incorrectly – as a result, water is either drawn in or drained. Then the heating element simply does not have time to heat it. How to connect the washing machine, read in previous articles.
- Check the selected mode. You may have set a cold wash program. For example, “Delicate wash” and “Wool” pass at 30-40 degrees, so it does not heat much.
You need to make sure that the washer does not really heat the water. Place your hand on the hatch 15 minutes after the start of the cycle – after washing it is too late to do this, since rinsing takes place in cold water anyway. If the glass is cold, there really is no heating.
This is the only external sign by which the absence of heating is determined.
Why the heating element does not work in the washing machine
Why did the heating element in the washing machine break? There may be several reasons:
- Heater wiring broken. It does not receive a signal from the module to start work and heat up.
- The heating element itself burned out, and it needs to be replaced urgently.
- The thermostat of the heating element, which measures the temperature of the water, has broken.
Scale is the main cause of heating element combustion. It occurs due to exposure to low-quality powder and untreated water. The filter on the inlet valve retains only large particles of debris from the water supply. And heavy salts, which are part of the water, settle on the heating element.
Scale is dangerous because it accumulates, hardens and does not allow the heating element to give off heat normally – it does not heat through a thick crust. As a result, more electricity is used for heating – the heater burns out.
To prevent scale, it is recommended to carry out prophylaxis with special means or citric acid.
Often the cause of the malfunction is a power surge. A sharp drop provokes the combustion of the wiring or the heating element itself.
A dangerous situation is when the heating element begins to pierce the body. This can be understood by the fact that the RCD knocks out, in advanced cases, touching the body of the machine can respond with an electric shock.
How to find a breakdown
If you do not know what to do, below we will look at the main ways to self-diagnose.
Get and check the heater
To determine whether the heating element has really burned out and does not heat the water, you need to get it out of the case. Depending on the model, the heater may be located in different parts of the AGR.
In Bosch, LG, Siemens washing machines, the heating element is located in front. To get it, do this:
- After disconnecting the machine from power and communications, remove the top cover from it.
- Go to the front panel and remove the dispenser tray by pressing the latch in the center.
- Loosen the screws that hold the control panel.
- Release its latches and unfasten the wiring.
- Remove the plinth panel.
- After opening the hatch door, remove the clamp from the sealing rubber. Fill the rubber itself inside the tank.
- Unscrew the two bolts of the UBL lock.
- Having unscrewed the screws around the perimeter, remove the front panel from the case.
- Under the tank is a heating element.
In the brands of washing machines “Ariston”, “Indesit”, the element is located at the back, so you only need to remove the back panel.
Determine short or open
Inspect the heater: if there is a lot of scale on it, then the cause of the malfunction is clear. To make sure that the part is burned out, remove it from the case and take a multimeter.
- Take a picture and disconnect the element wiring.
- Loosen the heater center nut and push the bolt inward.
- Prying off the edges with a flat screwdriver, remove the heating element from the socket.
Set your multimeter to resistance measurement mode. When applying the probes to the contacts of the element, follow the indicators.
The heating element is working if the screen shows up to 24 ohms. When it shows the number 1 or infinity, it means that a break has occurred. The number 0 indicates a short circuit.
Check for breakdown on the body
To check the heater for breakdown, switch the multimeter to the buzzer mode. In this case, the device will emit sound signals.
- Attach one probe to the heater outlet.
- Attach another probe to the body.
- The multimeter emitted a signal – there is a breakdown on the case, the heater needs to be replaced.
Buy heating elements only for your make and model of the car.
The thermistor, which is located in the heater housing, may also not work due to scale. If the thermistor is good, just move it to a new element and install it in place.
Inspect and replace wiring
Voltage does not come to the heating element if the wiring is not working. Inspect all wires and contacts. If you notice burnt places, the wiring must be replaced.
Now you know that you can check and replace the heating element yourself. If it does not heat up, first eliminate random errors in connecting the machine or choosing programs.