The most famous connective tissue molecule. Capable of retaining water, providing firmness and elasticity to the skin. It is part of the tools that help everyone look younger. Details from cosmetologists Tiina Orasmäe-Meder and Oksana Shatrova.
An ingredient with an unpronounceable name is now known to everyone. A dense cloud of myths, conjectures and assumptions hovers around hyaluronic acid. What to believe? Cosmetologists Tiina Orasmäe-Meder and Oksana Shatrova, authors of the Encyclopedia of Cosmetic Ingredients1, answer the most popular questions that usually arise in connection with hyaluronic acid.
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“In scientific terms, hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan polysaccharide,” says Tiina Orasmäe-Meder. – It can be called hyaluronan or hyaluronate, but not hyaluron, as many do. Hyaluronic acid can be found in the tissues of the nervous system, as well as in connective and epithelial tissues. But it also plays a big role in the migration of malignant tumors and the spread of streptococcal infection. Thus, its deficiency or excess can be both beneficial and harmful.”
Contrary to popular belief, hyaluronic acid is not the basis of the dermis. Accordingly, its introduction will not give you the promised effect of “restoration” of the dermis, “revitalization” and “redermalization”.
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The synthesis of hyaluronic acid does not depend on age-related processes, and its amount is not a marker of skin aging. Hyaluronic acid can speed up the healing process of the skin, but an incredibly important feature is its ability to protect cells from free radicals.
In the skin, hyaluronic acid can be found not only in the dermis, but also in the upper layer – the epidermis. With a decrease in the level of hyaluronan in the skin, the protective properties, the ability to retain moisture deteriorate, and it gradually loses its elasticity. The skin becomes more sensitive and dry, irritation and peeling appear, and then a network of fine wrinkles appears. According to Tiina Orasmäe-Meder and Oksana Shatrova, the decrease in the amount of hyaluronic acid in the skin is affected not so much by age as by damage caused by type B ultraviolet rays.
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So what to expect when applying hyaluronic acid to the skin? First of all – powerful hydration. This acid attracts and holds a large number of water molecules, hundreds more than its own molecular weight. As part of cosmetics, hyaluronic acid is ideally combined with glycerin. However, if there is insufficient humidity in the room, then hyaluronic acid can also dry out the skin. In this case, it is better to apply a nourishing cream on top of the product with it in the composition, which will prevent moisture loss.
But hyaluronic acid in the form of tablets (Solgar) will have an anti-inflammatory effect, as well as play the role of “lubricating” the joints, preventing diseases such as osteoarthritis.
1 The Science of Beauty. What cosmetics actually consist of” (Alpina Publisher, 2016).