What are emollients?

In this article, we tried to explain in simple terms what emollients are, how beneficial they are for the skin of children and adults, and what ingredients play this role in creams for the face, body, and hands.

What are emollients?

The term “emollient” (emollient or emollient) comes from the Latin verb emollire – to soften. The etymology of the word immediately gives a clue what emollients are in relation to skin care.

So, emollients are certain ingredients that have a softening effect, eliminating peeling, tightness of the skin. The mechanism of action of emollients is that they work on the most superficial, stratum corneum of the epidermis, forming a kind of protective film that prevents moisture from evaporating. Most fats (lipids) of vegetable or animal origin have this ability.

If you turn to history, you can see that emollients were used long before the advent of cosmetic products – the face was smeared with animal fat to protect against frost and wind. Northern peoples still successfully use fish or seal oil as an emollient day cream.

By the way, you may have come across the concept of “emollient cream” – this is how emollient creams with a high content of protective oils and fats (emollients) are sometimes called, but this is not quite the correct wording. Firstly, emollient is a substance, not a cosmetic product, and secondly, emollients are included not only in creams, but also in other cosmetic products – details below.

The benefits of emollients for the skin

Emollients for the skin (that is, as part of cosmetics) are useful primarily for their lipid-replenishing effect. Imagine that the cells of the epidermis are bricks, and lipids act as cement, holding them together. Thus, a protective barrier is built that protects the skin from excessive moisture loss. If there is not enough own lipids, the integrity of the hydrolipidic mantle is broken, which leads to dryness, flaking, the formation of rough and rough skin areas.

After applying the product rich in emollients, the skin immediately becomes soft and, most importantly, protected:

  • the feeling of discomfort and tightness disappears;

  • over time, the level of moisture increases, as the skin ceases to lose moisture;

  • peeling passes;

  • increases resistance to aggressive environmental factors, including cold or too dry air;

  • reduced manifestations of sensitivity;

  • lines of dehydration disappear;

  • overall appearance of the skin improves.

Types of emollients

In cosmetics, emollients of different nature are used: natural and synthetic.

It is problematic to compile a list of the best emollients, since each group of substances (regardless of origin) has its own advantages. Classic emollients are characterized by a thick waxy texture that forms a dense protection, but there are also lightweight textures, thanks to which you can create formulas adapted to the characteristics of different skin types.

Emollients of natural origin

Popular and perhaps the “oldest” group of emollients. It includes substances of plant and animal origin, as well as their derivatives:

  • vegetable oils – from thick and heavy to relatively light: castor, sea buckthorn, olive, almond, argan, sunflower, avocado;

  • butters are solid oils that melt on the skin; the most popular are shea butter (or shea butter), coconut, cocoa butter, macadamia and palm;

  • jojoba oil – a skin-friendly emollient, a kind of vegetable liquid wax;

  • beeswax;

  • squalane is a light lipid, extracted from olives, well perceived by the skin, does not leave a greasy feeling;

  • triglycerides – fatty acids derived from oils act as light emollients;

  • various fatty acids: lauric, stearic, oleic, linoleic;

  • cholesterol and ceramides are bioavailable lipids that are naturally present in the human epidermis.

Emollients of animal origin:

  • lanolin – wax from sheep wool, similar in composition to sebum, creates a reliable protective layer;

  • animal fats.

Chemical emollients

These include emollients obtained as a result of oil refining, which prevent the evaporation of moisture, forming an occlusive film. People with oily skin (even dehydrated ones) should avoid them to avoid clogged pores and the formation of comedones. Among the chemical emollients:

  • mineral oils;

  • paraffin;

  • vaseline.

Synthetic emollients

First of all, these are silicones: dimethicone, cyclomethicone are film-forming components that work well in combination with other emollients.

Why do you need cosmetics with emollients?

The formulas, which include emollients, are addressed to the skin, in which, for one reason or another, the integrity of the lipid barrier is broken.

Our expert Maria Nevskaya concretizes the list of indications for the use of products with emollients.

  • Dry skin, which is naturally lipid deficient, quickly loses moisture. For such skin from an early age, dryness, tightness, peeling are characteristic.

  • Dehydrated skin is a condition caused by a deficiency of moisture-retaining components (hyaluronic acid, urea, and other components of the skin’s natural moisturizing factor). In this case, moisture is quickly lost, and cell renewal also slows down. Typical signs of dehydration are tightness and discomfort after cleansing with water, dehydration wrinkles (superficial). This condition worsens with age and occurs with any type of skin, including oily.

  • Aged skin (40+) – with age, the production of lipids and hyaluronic acid decreases, as well as the moisture-holding capacity of the skin, constant dryness and tightness appear.

  • Skin with atopic dermatitis is characterized by an inferiority of the skin barrier, which provokes extreme dryness and itching; long-term use of emollients is recommended for such skin.

Find out what you’re missing in your daily skincare routine by answering our quiz.

Emollients are also included in formulas for children, in particular in products for infants, in which the epidermis is still imperfect and requires enhanced protection. It can be an emollient in its pure form, that is, a cosmetic oil, or a lipid-rich baby cream.

Emollients are also part of hair cosmetics – masks, balms, leave-in care. The goal is still the same – to retain moisture, protect and at the same time add shine.

Cosmetics with emollients

Emollients are included in products for dry, dehydrated skin with peeling. These can be creams and balms (for the face and body), emulsions that are lighter in consistency (they contain less emollients than in a cream or balm).

Note that emollients themselves do not moisturize, because it is a lipid, fat, its task is to “lock in moisture”, and “water” ingredients are responsible for skin hydration: glycerin, hyaluronic acid. In cosmetics, as you know, both elements are combined. The more fatty fraction, the thicker and denser the product will be. We hope we were able to explain what emollients are for. Let’s move on to specific examples.

Creams and balms

Triple action lipid-replenishing balm for face and body Lipikar Baume AP+M, La Roche-Posay

The balm, also recommended for people with atopy, that is, with very dry skin, with manifestations of itching due to dryness and with peeling, has a lipid-replenishing and soothing effect, regulates the skin microbiome. It contains niacinamide, thermal water, and shea butter acts as an emollient. According to the instructions, the balm should be applied to the face and body once a day after cleansing, at any age.

Triple Restore 2:4:2, SkinCeuticals

If we were asked to compile a list of the best facial emollient creams, we (the editors of Healthy-Food) would definitely include this product in the top 3. An elegant formula based on a combination of three lipids in a precisely adjusted ratio (ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids) helps the skin not only survive the winter without loss, but also acquire smoothness, elasticity, and radiance.

Revitalizing nourishing night cream Neovadiol, Vichy

This cream with emollients is designed for adult women who have entered the menopause, when the skin begins to lack lipids and therefore suffers from dryness. The formula every night supplies the skin with a full set of fatty acids (omega-3-6-9), shea butter, evening primrose, and also stimulates the synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid. Users note the excellent texture of the product, thanks to which the cream seems to melt on the skin.

Revitalizing care cream to protect very dry skin Nutrilogy, Vichy

The composition of this rich cream includes a whole range of different emollients: apricot kernel, macadamia, soybean, jojoba oils, fatty alcohols and acids. Perhaps that is why it eliminates the feeling of tightness from the first application.

Nutritic Skin Revitalizing Cream, La Roche-Posay

The cream, addressed to dry skin, which naturally suffers from a lack of lipids, softens it, soothes, relieves discomfort, and also protects. Of course, the composition includes emollients: shea butter, wax, mineral oil, paraffin. Suitable for sensitive skin.

Extraordinary face cream-oil “Luxury food”, L’Oréal Paris

In our opinion, this is a good cream for winter and off-season – especially if the skin is prone to dryness and easily dehydrated. In the composition we will find emollients: shea butter, argan, rosehip, waxes, mineral oil.

For body and hands

Care for dry and rough skin Intensive Treatment and Moisturizer, Kiehl’s

A rich cream with emollients (shea butter and avocado) will help soften even very dry, rough skin on the hands, elbows, and heels.

Revitalizing cream for very dry skin of hands Lipikar Xerand, La Roche-Posay

The purpose of this cream with emollients for the skin of the hands is to restore the hydrolipidic film of the epidermis and form a reliable protection. It contains allantoin, fatty acids, dimethicone and mineral oil.

Revitalizing barrier cream for hands Cicaplast, La Roche-Posay

This cream has strong protective and soothing properties. Absorbs quickly and works like invisible and imperceptible gloves. Largely due to the high concentration of glycerin, nicinamide and shea butter.

SA Softening cream for dry, rough and uneven skin CeraVe

This cream, addressed to rough, uneven skin, acts as follows: renews, moisturizes and softens. The composition combines ceramides, moisturizing and exfoliating ingredients (urea, salicylic acid) and shea butter to leave the skin smooth and very soft.

Revitalizing and nourishing body cream Nutrix Royal Body, Lancôme

This cream is an example of a luxurious emollient treatment with squalane, shea butter and corn. Softens, smoothes and protects the skin, relieves dryness and restores a feeling of comfort. Dense, but melting texture and delicate aroma give unconditional pleasure from use.

Shower gels

Lipikar Syndet AP+, La Roche-Posay Lipikar Syndet AP+ Lipikar Syndet AP+, La Roche-Posay

Cream-gel with lipid-replenishing emollient (shea butter) softens the skin and prevents the feeling of tightness after water procedures. Does not irritate the eyes. They can clean both the face and body of children, infants and adults.

Moisturizing cleansing foaming oil for normal, dry and atopic skin of the face and body, CeraVe

This gentle, oily cleanser is formulated with a signature combination of ceramides, squalane, and hydrating agents hyaluronic acid and glycerin. Sulfates and fragrances are absent. Suitable for all family members, including children.

Take our quiz and find out which shower product is right for you.

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