To create our own unique scent, we went to Irina Vaganova’s perfume house of fashion. We will tell you how you can create a scent with your own hands in the evening and take it with you.
The perfume house of fashion is located in the alleys of Kitay-Gorod – the whole evening will have to be devoted to the master class. The first hour is devoted to the presentation, where Irina herself talks about notes, chords and composition.
Of course, we wanted to get to practice as soon as possible, and our hands were drawn to the colorful flasks with fragrant contents! Irina said that the base notes can be conventionally divided into floral, fruity, amber-musky, citrus, woody, green, chypre, confectionery and avant-garde. Perfumers do not have a clear division – it depends on the country and the specification of each.
We drink tea and study the contents of glass flasks with aromas
All perfumes are mixed on the basis of ethyl alcohol – it connects three steps: the top notes, the heart of the fragrance and the trail.
As diligent girls, we have written down some interesting things about perfumes that everyone who wants to learn how to make their perfume wardrobe consciously should know.
Resistance
“The longevity of a perfume can be influenced by anything – the season, the temperature of the air and skin, the country and the room in which the fragrance is sprayed. It often happens that the “summer” light scent does not last long – it is intended for fine and hot days, when the persistent winter perfume will simply strangle the owner. Pay attention to what time of the year what perfume to wear, or you run the risk of not feeling the scent at all in winter, and suffocating in summer from the wrong one. “
The structure of the composition of the fragrance
“Top notes are how others perceive the fragrance for the first 10 minutes. The most volatile substances, as a rule, are revealed there, – the expert continues. Next come the heart notes – most often floral or spicy accords. The base of the fragrances, as a rule, has musky and woody notes – they are the most persistent and last on almost any skin. “
Little tricks of perfume shops
“Tea or any drink is needed in order to clear the receptors,” says Larisa Molchanova, deputy director of the Perfumery House, “you cannot smell a dozen aromas, and the coffee offered in all perfumery stores does not help – it only“ beats ”even more. “By receptors. Sly marketers deliberately put it out in the hall so that the visitors don’t endlessly walk around the hall, but choose something from the first three fragrances they listened to – they definitely won’t feel the rest, ”she continues.
We write down the notes of our own scent – where and how much to drip to get a masterpiece of perfumery
The tea is drunk, and we move on to practice – everyone is given a test tube with alcohol, to which the absolute of aroma is added drop by drop. They interfere with it with a glass rod – from it you need to try to catch the resulting aroma. At first, everyone only smells the alcohol, but over time, the aroma begins to emerge. Naturally, Irina is in charge of the process – she advises which scents to add first and how to balance the composition.
– Notes: oud, amber, incense. Creation: I wanted to make a scent of honeysuckle – I associate it directly with summer in my childhood at the dacha. The aroma with notes of earth, green shoots and juicy dark berries – it is a little spicy and tart, such a “garden chaos”. At the same time, during the test, I liked mainly oriental notes, and this fits into the stereotype of a beauty editor). We balanced them with ozone (a wonderful note of damp air after rain) and cashmell – a very deep and unusual aroma. Over time, it does not unfold quite harmoniously – I think it was worth adding more ingredients. But all the time I was afraid to overdo it and ruin the composition – next time I will put everything in the fragrance! Longevity: I can smell the scent on my hair and skin for a couple of hours – just what you need for a summer scent.
– Notes: lavender, tuberose, neroli, patchouli, fig, sandalwood, juniper, fir, oud tree, leather, sea salt. Creation: I wanted to see in my scent the tenderness of flowers and the brutality of woody accords. That is why I added lavender, juniper and fir to the base of the composition. However, I did not want to make my perfume truly masculine, and therefore I balanced the tree and needles with sweet tuberose and a little stuffy patchouli. Result: For the first few hours and days, the scent seemed too harsh and too floral to me. But after four weeks, the perfume has changed. It became softer and more harmonious. And most importantly, woody notes, a little ocean and cozy leather mixed with sweet flowers began to be clearly heard in it. It turned out very difficult and unusual. Longevity: my scent sits very close to the skin and has almost no trail. After a couple of hours I get used to it and practically do not feel it. I got quite a comfortable and cozy version of a complex perfume for every day.
– Notes: vanilla, chocolate, mint, figs, currants, cinnamon, pepper, coumarin. Creation: I wanted to feel the real Dolce Vita in cool Moscow, so I immediately decided to create a sunny sweet scent that would envelop warmly and leave a pleasant spicy trail. But so that my creation does not resemble the viscous smells of vanilla fillings from a pastry shop, I decided to balance them with fresh mint accords. Result: I really liked the perfume composition and the notes that I collected there. Within minutes of adding a few more drops of vanilla for sweetness, my creation began to unfold. Memory obligingly slipped pictures of sunny Italy, saturated with notes of fresh croissant, viscous bomboloni with vanilla cream and powdered sugar, as well as spicy cinnamon and real lemonade with mint leaves. It turned out even better than I originally planned. And even after four weeks, which had to be sustained for the perfume to be finally formed, I did not get discouraged as a result: it remained the same attractive, but became more pronounced and saturated. Longevity: My fragrance has pleasant top notes and a seductive sillage. Even after a few hours, I can feel his presence. A couple of zips is enough for me to smell fragrant all day. And if I want to feel a complex flavor combination, then I add a few more drops of oud perfume on top.
– Notes: juniper, cypress, sandalwood, mint, rosemary, orange blossom, sea salt. Creation: Initially, I had little idea what flavor I wanted. Teapot perfumers like me were asked to first imagine the smell and think about what emotions it should evoke. In my imagination, the calm sea, calm and serene, immediately appeared. Sea salt, orange blossom, mint … A few more touches, and you get a light, delicate and fresh aroma. Persistence: the smell completely satisfies my ideas about a daily perfume. I plunged into the “sea” cloud early in the morning, before going to work. And during the day I felt a slight taste of the sea air. By the evening, the aroma had almost completely disappeared. It is good – at the end of a working day, you get tired of any information, including stimulating the sense of smell.
We were warned in advance that the fragrance poured into a beautiful bottle can be opened only after three weeks. As far as I know, no one could resist, everyone opened them earlier – the perfume was infused, and the smell became more voluminous and sonorous.