Washing machine overheating water? For colored linen, woolen, cotton things, this can be a disaster: they shed and shrink. Each washing program provides a specific temperature: 30, 40, 60 degrees. Delicate items should be washed in the most gentle mode – no more than 40 ° C.
Why the machine is overheating and how to fix the failure, read our article.
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Signs and causes of the problem
If the washing machine constantly heats or boils water, parts have worn out. How to spot it:
- With a slight overheating (by 10-20 ° C), things can shed, sit down even at a 30-degree mode.
- When boiling, you may notice that steam is coming out from behind the door. The sides of the machine will be hot.
What to do. Before looking for the cause of the problem, interrupt the washing program, unplug the appliance from the mains. Try to start the drain mode: if the water is very hot, it is better to wait a few hours until it cools down. Boiling water can damage CMA hoses and fittings.
If the drain does not start, wait for it to cool and run it through the drain filter.
When the tank is unloaded, you can start diagnosing. To do this, it is important to understand the principle of heating in a washing machine Bosch, Siemens, Electrolux and other brands.
How water is heated in the SMA
As soon as the tank is full, the machine starts heating:
- The control board sends a signal to the heating element about the start of work.
- As soon as the temperature reaches the set level, the thermistor informs the module.
- The control element gives the heating element a command to stop working.
If one of the three parts breaks down or if their work fails, the washing machine starts to boil water. An additional cause may be a burnt wiring.
How to fix the problem
You will need devices for diagnostics, tools: a screwdriver, pliers.
Start by checking the thermistor and heater. In washing machines, the temperature sensor is built into the base of the heating element, so you need to get to it.
Depending on the model of the washing machine, the heating element can be located in the front or rear of the case, under the tank. You can find out for sure in the user manual.
If your car has a heater in the front, you will have to completely disassemble the case, but this is rare. We will consider the option that occurs most often: placing the heater against the back wall.
- Close the stop valve.
- Disconnect the drain and fill hoses from the housing.
- Loosen the two top cover screws. Slide it forward and then remove it from the case.
- Unscrew the bolts around the perimeter of the back cover, set it aside.
- Under the tank you will see the leads of the heating element.
If you decide to pull the part out, buy a rubber seal. It allows the heater to sit hermetically in the nest, and after dismantling it is damaged and does not perform its functions.
- Disconnect the wiring chips, inspect the wires for damage. If the insulation is broken or burnt parts are visible, the operation of the element is not controlled by the board. The wiring harness needs to be replaced.
- To check, attach the multimeter probes to the contacts, measure the resistance. If the indicators are more than 20 Ω, the device is in good condition, 0 is an internal short circuit, 1 or infinity is an open circuit.
- To diagnose the thermistor, connect the probes of a multimeter and measure the resistance at a temperature difference. At 20 degrees, the resistance should be around 6000 ohms. When immersed in hot water around 50° – 1350 ohms.
- To replace defective elements, unscrew the central nut of the heater (not completely) and push it inward.
- Remove the heater from the seat, pull out the thermistor.
- Perform installation in reverse order.
The most difficult problem could happen with the electronic module. If he does not give the heating element the command to turn off, then the water will boil. Incorrect interpretation of the temperature sensor data leads to an increase in temperature by 10-30 degrees.
In this case, you need to flash the module or completely replace it. It is better to entrust the repair to a specialist. On your own, you can only inspect the item for damage:
- Disconnect the equipment from the network.
- Remove the top cover by unscrewing the two screws on the back.
- Loosen the screws and remove the baffle, if any.
- Pull out the dispenser tray by pressing the latch in the center.
- Remove the two screws behind it.
- Remove the screws that secure the control panel.
- Opening the latches, remove the panel together with the block from the case.
- Disconnect the wiring chips, inspect the module for damage.
If you want to check the board, remove the module cover. See if there are any burns. If you notice problems, take the part to a service center or contact the master.
So you can independently check the elements of the SMA. Watch a helpful repair video: