Voltage stabilizer 220 V for home, garden, gas boiler

The electricity supplied to our homes is not stable. If the frequency is even more or less stable, then the voltage “walks” in a significant range. The only thing that can be done with this is to put a voltage stabilizer for the house, apartment, cottage. Then everything will be fine in your separately taken “piece” of the network (if you choose the right electrical stabilizer). 

Select by specifications

To choose a stabilizer, first decide whether you will install it on the whole house / apartment or on a specific device (group of devices). In theory, if there are problems with voltage, it is better to put a voltage stabilizer for the house at the input, so that all devices receive guaranteed normal voltage. But such equipment costs quite solid money – at least $ 500. So the costs are big. This approach is justified, if the throws are significant, then this is the best way out, since the technique can fail.

If the voltage “walks” within small limits and most of the equipment is working normally, and only some part of the more sensitive equipment has problems, it makes sense to put local stabilizers on specific lines or on individual devices.

By number of phases

Power in the house can be single-phase and three-phase. With single-phase (at 220 V), everything is clear: you need a single-phase stabilizer. If the house / apartment has three phases, there are options:

• If there is equipment that is connected to three phases at once, then a three-phase voltage stabilizer for the house is needed.
  

  

• If the equipment is connected to only one of the phases, single-phase stabilizers are needed for each of the phases. Moreover, their power does not have to be the same, since the load is usually unevenly distributed.
  

  

It is not difficult to choose a voltage stabilizer for a house or a summer residence according to this principle. But it is necessary to be determined.

Power selection

To choose a voltage stabilizer for your home, the first step is to calculate its power. The easiest way to determine it is by the machine that stands on the house or line. For example, the input machine is at 40 A. We calculate the power: 40 A * 220 V = 8,8 KVA. So that the unit does not work at the limit of its capabilities, they take a power reserve of 20-30%. For this case, it will be 10-11 kVA.

The power of the local stabilizer is also calculated, which we put on a separate device. But here we take into account the maximum current consumption (there is in the characteristics). For example, this is 2,5 A. Next, we count according to the algorithm described above. But if the equipment has a motor (a refrigerator, for example), then it is necessary to take into account the starting currents, which are several times higher than the normative ones. In this case, the calculated parameters are multiplied by 2 or 3.

When selecting power, do not confuse kVA with kW. In short, 10 kVA in the presence of capacitances and inductances on the load (that is, for real networks almost always) is not equal to 10 kW. The figure of the real load is less, and how much less depends on the inductance factor (it may also be in the characteristics). It’s easy to calculate everything for a specific device – you need to multiply it by a coefficient, but for a network it’s more and more difficult. Just if you see a figure in kVA, take a margin of about 15-20%. Approximately this is the reactive component on average.

Stabilization accuracy

The stabilization accuracy shows how “smooth” the output voltage will be. +-5% is considered acceptable. With such a tolerance, domestic equipment normally works, but for imported equipment, a better stabilized voltage is needed. So, all stabilizers that have an accuracy of less than + -5% are great, everything that is worse is better not to buy.

Input voltage range: limit and operating

There are two lines in the characteristics: the limiting range of the input voltage and the operating one. These are two different characteristics that display different device parameters. The limit range is the one at which the device will somehow adjust the voltage. It will not always pull it to the norm, but at least it will not turn off.

The operating range of the input voltage is exactly the run-up at which the device must produce the declared parameters (with the same stabilization accuracy).

Load and overload capacity

This is a very important characteristic that you should definitely pay attention to. The load capacity shows what kind of load the voltage stabilizer for the home can “pull” when working at the lower limit. There are models that give out the declared power at 220 V. That is, when it is not needed at all. But at the lower limit of 160 V, they can only work with half the load. The result – working at low voltage, it can burn out. Even if you took it with a power reserve.

Overload capacity is equally important. It shows how long it can work with excess load. The parameter is important even if you took the equipment with a good margin of power. By this parameter, you can indirectly determine the quality of parts and build quality. The higher the overload capacity, the more reliable the equipment.

Types, pros, cons

There are different types of voltage stabilizers, they are made from different types of components – electromechanical, electronic. Some of them have electro-mechanical control, some electronic. To choose the right equipment, you need to have an idea of ​​​​the advantages and disadvantages.

Electronic (triac)

They are assembled on triacs or thermistors. They have several adjustment levels that are connected / disconnected depending on the input voltage. Switching can occur using an electronic key (it works silently, but these are more expensive models) or an electronic relay (there is a sound when triggered).

The advantages of electronic stabilizers include a high reaction rate (the turn-on time of one stage is about 20 ms). Electronic keys work very quickly, connecting the required number of correction steps or turning them off. The second positive point is quiet operation. There is nothing to make noise here – the electronics work.

There are also disadvantages. The first is low stabilization accuracy. In this category, you will not find models that give out voltage with an error of less than 2-3%. This is simply impossible, since the adjustment is stepped and the error is quite high. The second disadvantage is the high price. Triacs cost a lot, and there are as many of them as there are steps. That is, the more steps and the higher the accuracy of adjustment, the more expensive the equipment will be.

Electromechanical

They are assembled on the basis of an electromagnetic coil along which the slider runs. The position of the slider is changed using a motor or relay. The advantage of an electromechanical stabilizer is its low price and high stabilization accuracy. The disadvantage is low performance – the parameters change slowly. The second minus is a rather loud work.

Devices with a motor are quieter, but the adjustment is slow. The average reaction time is 20 V in 0,5 seconds. With sharp jumps, the device simply does not have time to change the voltage. Stabilizers of this type have one more trouble – overvoltage. Occurs in a situation where the previously dropped voltage abruptly returns to normal. The stabilizer does not have time to react, as a result, we have a jump at the output, it can receive up to 260 V, and this is detrimental to technology. In order to avoid such a situation, a voltage protection (automatic voltage switch) is installed at the output, which simply turns off the power.

If an electromechanical voltage stabilizer for the home is assembled on the basis of a relay, the response time is shorter, but they are noisy during operation, and the adjustment is not smooth but stepwise. This means that they have lower stabilization accuracy. But there is no overvoltage and there is no need to think about additional protection. In order not to be confused, these devices are called relay stabilizers, which is how they are described in most cases.

There is one more not very pleasant moment for electromechanical voltage stabilizers for a house or apartment: they wear out faster, require regular maintenance (once every half a year).

ferroresonant

These are the most bulky of the stabilizers. They have a short response time, high reliability and resistance to interference. The stabilization coefficient is average (about 3-4%), which is not bad.

But at the output, the voltage has a distorted shape (not a sinusoid), the work depends on changes in the frequency in the network, it is distinguished by a large mass and dimensions. It is usually used as the first stage of stabilization if normal voltage cannot be achieved with one device.

Inverter

This is one of the types of electronic devices, but its operation and internal structure are very different from those described above, therefore this group is considered separately.

In inverter voltage stabilizers, a double conversion occurs, first the alternating current is converted to direct current, then back to alternating current, which is fed to the power factor corrector, where it is stabilized. As a result, we have an ideal sinusoid with stable parameters at the output.

An inverter voltage stabilizer for the home is perhaps the best choice for today. Here are its advantages:

• Wide operating range of stabilization. The normal indicator is from 115-290 V.
• Low response time – the delay is a few milliseconds.
• High stabilization accuracy: class averages 0,5-1%.
• The output is an ideal sinusoid, which is important for some types of equipment (gas boilers, for example, washing machines of the latest generation).
• Suppression of interference of any kind.
• Small size and weight.

For the price, this is not the most expensive equipment – they cost about the same as relay ones and almost two times lower than electronic ones. At the same time, the conversion quality of inverter units is much higher.

The disadvantage of this equipment is one: during operation, the elements are very hot. For cooling, fans are built into the case, which emit a soft buzz. If you choose a voltage stabilizer for an apartment, they usually put it in the corridor, so noise can be heard. In private homes, there are more options for choosing an installation site, so it is quite realistic to find one where noise will not interfere.

Which stabilizer is better

To say that some type of stabilizer is better and some worse does not make sense. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages, each in some situation, under certain requirements – the best choice.

Let’s look at typical situations that many people face:

• Jumps in nutrition are frequent, sharp. The voltage then drops, then becomes higher than required. For such a situation, high speed and the absence of the possibility of overvoltage are necessary. Such properties are possessed by electronic and inverter stabilizers.
• The voltage in the network often drops, it practically does not reach the norm. A wide working range is important here. Of the inexpensive models, electromechanical and relay ones are suitable, of the more expensive ones, the same inverter.
  

  

• We bought new equipment, but it does not want to work, it gives a power error. The best option here is an inverter unit. It will not only hold out the voltage, but it will also give out an ideal sinusoid, and this is important for electronics.

There are actually a lot of situations. But in any case, it is necessary to select the type of voltage stabilizer for the house based on their existing problem. Further, already in the selected category, select by parameters.

Manufacturer selection and prices

The most difficult thing is to choose a manufacturer. Staz should say that it is better not to consider Chinese units. Even with those that are only half Chinese (with production out in the Middle Kingdom and head office in another country), one must be very careful. The quality is not always stable.

If the external component is not important to you, pay attention to the stabilizers of Russian or Belarusian production. This is Calm and Leader. Quite decent units, with not very good design, but with stable quality.

If you are looking for the perfect equipment, look for the Italian ORTEA. They have excellent build quality and looks. Also good reviews from RESANT. Their product is rated at 4-4,5 on a five-point scale.

Several examples of stabilizers of various types with a capacity of 10-10,5 kW with characteristics and prices are shown in the table. See for yourself.

The range of prices is amazing, but the types of equipment here are very different – from budget relay and electromechanical to super-reliable electronic ones.