Contents
To ensure normal air exchange in a house or apartment, two components are necessary: the inflow of fresh air through the living rooms and its outflow from the technical ones. Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is one of the components of the outflow. Therefore, it is necessary to do it right.
According to the principle of operation, ventilation can be natural or mechanical, they also say – forced. The natural movement of air occurs due to the movement of wind, temperature differences and, resulting from this, pressure drops. When mechanical ventilation is used, air movement is caused by fans.
From the point of view of an urban man, forced movement is preferable: everyone has long been accustomed to the fact that life support depends on the availability of electricity. And it rarely disappears in cities. But in rural areas in winter, power outages are rather the norm. Therefore, probably, they tend to mainly make systems non-volatile, or at least redundant.
But the natural ventilation in the bathroom and bathroom should be too large. After all, the lower the speed of air movement through the channel, the greater the cross section of the duct is needed to ensure the transfer of the required volumes. No one will argue that when the fan is on, the air moves faster. This is even reflected in the SNiP: the rate of movement for ventilation systems with natural circulation is up to 1 m3/ h, for mechanical – from 3 to 5 m3/h Therefore, for the same room and conditions, the dimensions of the channels will be different. For example, to transmit a stream of 300 m3/h you will need:
- with a forced channel with dimensions of 160 * 200 mm or a diameter of 200 mm;
- with natural circulation, a channel with dimensions of 250 * 400 mm or a pipe with a diameter of 350 mm.
One of the schemes for organizing ventilation in the bathroom and toilet in a private house
Therefore, few people today manage with natural ventilation. Unless in small houses (up to 100 sq. m.). Even in apartments with channels leading to the roof, bathrooms and toilets are ventilated using fans.
Organization Rules
When installing an air movement system, you need to remember the basic principle: in order for everything to work efficiently, it is necessary to ensure the flow of air through the living rooms and its flow into the technical ones. From there, he leaves through the ventilation ducts.
Today, air flow has become a problem: by reducing heating costs, we have cut off almost all sources of its supply. We install airtight windows, we insulate the walls through which at least a little air enters with airtight materials. The third source – entrance doors – today, almost all have iron ones, with a rubber seal. There was, in fact, the only way – airing. But we do not abuse it at all: it blows out heat. As a result, to the problems of lack of oxygen in the room, the problem of dampness is added: there is no inflow, and the outflow is inefficient. Even forced.
If you want the ventilation to be normal, and the walls in the rooms not to “wet”, make ventilation holes. There is such an option on metal-plastic windows, and there are separate devices that are mounted anywhere on the wall. They are available with adjustable shutters, of various shapes and sizes, and are covered with bars from the outside. It is best to install under the windows, above or behind the batteries. Then they are not visible in the room, and in winter the air coming from the street is heated.
Having ensured the inflow, care must be taken to ensure that it enters the technical premises through the doors. Therefore, there should be gaps under all doors: through them, air will flow into other rooms. It is advisable to install a ventilation grill in the bathroom doors and / or also make a gap of at least 2 cm from the floor. The same rules apply to other technical rooms: kitchen and toilet. Only if there is movement of air masses will ventilation work.
You may be interested in reading about how to build a wooden toilet in the country.
Calculation of fan performance for bathroom and toilet
To decide which fan to put on the bathtub with a toilet, you need to calculate the necessary air exchange. The calculation is a whole system, but when installing a fan, the main attention is paid to its characteristics: it provides the required air speed. In order not to interfere in the calculations, its performance can be taken according to average numbers.
As you can see from the table (this is from SNiP), for a bathroom, at least 25 m should be “pumped” per hour3/ h, for a toilet or a combined bathroom, the speed should be twice as high – 50 m3/h These are the minimum values. In reality, through three (or two) technical rooms – a kitchen, a toilet, a bathroom – as much air should leave as it enters through the supply ventilation.
The calculation of the inflow is carried out according to the volume of all residential premises and usually exceeds it by 1,5-2 times, and the minimum values u100buXNUMXbindicated in the table are not enough to ensure the required air exchange. Therefore, the performance of the fans is taken with at least a double margin, and even more for kitchens: this way there will be no unpleasant odors in the apartment, as well as dampness and fungi. Therefore, going for a fan in the bathroom with a lower capacity than XNUMX m3/h is better not to take.
How to assemble and install a shower cabin is written here.
Choice
First of all, you need to decide where you will put the fan: in the duct or on the wall. Accordingly, the type: channel or wall. In wall-mounted versions, there can also be two types: for installation at the inlet of the ventilation duct – they create more pressure, and for ductless installation – exit directly through the wall to the street. For a channelless installation, axial-type fans are usually used – they cannot create a pressure of more than 50 Pa; for this reason, they are not installed in channels.
In addition to the performance that you calculated, another important characteristic is the noise level. The smaller it is, the better. It is good if the noise level is no more than 35 dB.
Another thing to pay attention to is the level of electrical safety. For use in rooms with high humidity, a protection level of at least IP 44 is required (indicated on the fan housing).
Connecting a fan in the bathroom
For the fan to work, power is needed and the main question is how to connect it. There are several possibilities:
- Connect in parallel with lighting. When you turn on the light in the bathroom or toilet, the fan automatically starts. But it also turns off automatically when the light is turned off. For the toilet, this situation is normal, but for the bathroom – not always. For example, after taking a hot shower, all the steam will not go away. Therefore, for bathrooms, you can use a different way to connect the fan or set a shutdown delay (a special device on which you can set the time interval after which the power will turn off).
- Output to a separate switch key or put a separate toggle switch / button.
- Set a timer that will automatically power up according to a schedule.
The electrical part is the hardest part. You will have to punch a strobe in the wall, “pack” the power cable into it, bring it to the installation site of the switch and connect it there, depending on the chosen method.
You can read how to make a shower cabin with a tile tray in this article.
Check the vent
Installing a fan in the bathroom with your own hands begins after checking the condition of the channel. To do this, remove the grate, if it has not been dismantled yet, and bring a flame (candle, lighter) or a piece of paper to the hole. If the flame or leaf is pulled steadily towards the channel, the draft is normal. If it stretches, then bends back – the thrust is unstable. In this case, if you live in an apartment building, smells from neighbors upstairs or downstairs can get to you. Then the smell in the toilet from the ventilation is possible. Traction needs to be stabilized.
If the flame or leaf almost does not deviate, the channel is clogged or blocked. In this case, mold and dampness, as well as unpleasant odors are guaranteed throughout the apartment, and in the bathroom, so be sure.
In case of abnormal draft, residents of high-rise buildings clean the channels themselves or call maintenance services. In private homes, in any case, everything falls on the shoulders of the owners. If the channel is unstable, you may have taken it out without taking into account the wind rose and the thrust periodically overturns. You can solve the problem by moving the exit, but it’s not easy. To begin with, you can try to put a deflector (if it is not there) or slightly increase / decrease the height.
Features of forced ventilation in the bathroom
When the fan is installed while it is running, the amount of air discharged increases significantly. But due to the fact that the case covers part of the channel section, at other times, when the fan is not working, the flow decreases three times. As a result, the overall performance of the ventilation system drops.
To prevent this from happening, you can install a fan with an air intake grille located below and thus increase the performance to normal. The second option is to leave a gap of 1,5-2 cm between the case and the wall during installation, i.e. make legs. Air will enter the slot and ventilation will be normal in any case. See the video for more on this.
Having chosen the installation method and the type of grille, you can proceed directly to the installation. Fan sizes may vary. Therefore, each case is individual. But the basic steps are standard:
- A hole must be made on the tile under the body. The easiest way is to attach a fan and outline. Then, with a special nozzle on a drill or a grinder, cut a hole of the appropriate size.
- Remove the front panel from the fan. It is attached with one bolt at the bottom. The bolt was unscrewed, the grille was removed. Holes for fasteners are now visible. We insert the fan in this form into place (into the channel), mark on the tile with a pencil or marker the place where the bolts will be.
- With a drill of the appropriate diameter, we make holes in the tile and wall to fit the size of the dowel.
- We make an incision in the tile, where we will pass the power wire.
- Insert the dowel.
- We stretch electrical wires through a special hole on the fan housing (if there is no hole, it is drilled).
- We install in place, tighten the bolts.
- Connect the wires.
- We check the performance and install the grate.
- We read about the choice of a fan and the calculation of its performance here.For wooden toilets, all this is only partly true. Read about how to get rid of outdoor toilet odors here.
Ventilation in the bathroom in a private house
Here the main difficulties may arise in the construction of exhaust channels. When planning, they can be brought together in one place and then brought to the roof. This is more difficult in terms of internal wiring – you will have to pull the ducts to the right place, and also more expensive during construction. But the look is solid.
When planning a private house, you can collect all the ventilation ducts in one place and bring them to the roof Another way to arrange ventilation ducts: bring it through the wall, and then lift it up along the outer wall. According to the rules, for normal draft with natural ventilation, they should rise 50 cm above the ridge. But one common air duct will be brought out by you or a separate one for each room – it depends on your desire or on the layout. The picture will look something like this.
Exhaust ventilation in the bathroom and toilet of a private house can be organized in this way There is another option: to make a mechanical hood that will work exclusively from the fan. Then, depending on the layout, one of the two options presented in the photo is suitable.
Options for mechanical ventilation of the bath in a private house In the first case (on the left), the exhaust hole is made right in the upper part of the wall (in order for air exchange to be effective, it must be located opposite the door, obliquely, at the top). With this device, a conventional wall fan is used. The same figure shows how the number of required channels can be reduced. If your bathroom and toilet rooms are nearby, through a thin partition, then you can make a hole in the partition and install a grate. In this case, the ventilation of the bath will go through the toilet.
In the second option (pictured on the right), an air duct with a duct fan is used. The solution is simple, only there is one caveat: if the air duct ends under the roof overhang (it is short in the photo, but there are also long ones), then the tree will turn black after a while. If you draw a conclusion from the toilet this way, this may not happen, and in the case of the bathroom, high humidity will make itself felt in a couple of years. In this case, you can “pull out” the air duct to the roof cut or bring it up through the knee (but raise it 50 cm above the roof).