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Last spring, the price of the vanilla has broken a new record, making this spice the most expensive in the world after the saffron. Consequence of the strange dance of demand and supply, of course, but also of the exclusive nature of a a real gem for the palate.
How many types of vanilla are there, why is it so expensive, what are the products that imitate it, where and under what face can we enjoy it. Vanilla, in ten very gourmet tracks.
Sweet orchid
Vanilla is a climbing orchid native to the tropical forests of Mexico and Central America. Its name refers to the narrow and elongated pods that constitute the fruit of the plant and the spice itself. There are more than a hundred different species of vanilla, but almost all that is grown in the world comes from Vanilla planifolia.
Madagascar, the Comoros and Reunion islands in the Indian Ocean produce the 80-85% vanilla that is marketed. It is about the famous Bourbon vanilla or Bourbon, old name of Reunion, where the laborious method of production of this spice was invented.
La tahitian vanilla It comes from another species and has a more floral flavor. The Antillean vanilla, of the V. pompona variety, is the one that comes from the Caribbean islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique and finally the Mexican vanilla, which for centuries has been the only and only vanilla that could be tasted in the whole world.
Vanilla, always exclusive
The history of vanilla, like that of many other spices, is woven with threads of gold. It is said that Elizabeth I, in her later years, demanded that all his dishes be flavored with vanilla. In 1700, the French began to use this spice to sweeten the aroma of tobacco and both Casanova and the Marquis de Sade used it to promote their love affairs.
Although the first written reference to this exclusive ingredient takes us directly to the Aztec emperor Moctezuma, who, apparently, used to drink a mixture of corn, cocoa, honey and crushed black vanilla beans (tlilxóchitl). A kings drink, for which the European aristocracy went crazy as soon as this spice began to arrive from America.
The legend of the Black Flower
And is that the aztecas were the great discoverers of vanilla. A legend tells that when the gods still lived on Earth, a girl named Xanat, who, despite being the daughter of the goddess of fertility, had no divine nature, fell in love with the young god Totonac.
Unable to see his dreams of love come true, Xanat became a plant capable of providing love and happiness to his people and his impossible love when they cooked it. For his new life, Xanat chose the name of Tlilxóchitl, which means black flower.
Vanilla, the reason for its exclusivity
Vanilla is one of the most expensive spices in the world That’s right. To begin with, it is difficult for it to reproduce naturally: vanilla flower it remains open for a few hours and in this short time it has to be pollinated by hand and with the help of a narrow wooden rod.
Second, it must be taken into account that the black and odorous pods that we know are the result of a laborious process that involves many months of work and a lot of care. The so called Bourbon method it forces the fermentation of the pods, which at first have no flavor, by scalding them in water, leaving them to sweat in the sun for ten days, wrapping them in blankets at night and finally drying them in the sun.
The process is concluded when it appears frost, a crystalline frost on the surface of the pod. It is now when vanilla gives off its characteristic Flavor and smell.
Like gold
In other words, vanilla is a rare commodity, that hardly can and will be able to adapt to an ever wide demand. That is why its price is high compared to other spices.
In addition, it is necessary to take into account the oligopoly situation of the world vanilla trade, which means that its price is closely linked to the quantity and quality of Madagascar’s crops. Recently, in fact, the price of vanilla has risen exorbitantly reaching last spring the 500 euros per kilo.
The reason? The passage of cyclone Enawo, which struck the island at the beginning of the year. Among the damage caused, some terrible, is also having damaged and reduced an already scarce harvest, causing the price of vanilla to skyrocket.
Vanilla, authentic jewel
The cheap alternatives to real vanilla they are especially insidious. Vanillin It is a synthetic vanilla, that is, artificially obtained from lignin (a compound found in plants and to which the rigidity of wood is due) and other products. From a chemical point of view it is exactly the same as vanilla, but the aroma of natural vanilla is more complete and complex and can contain up to hundreds of components. It may be less noticeable on a cake or pastry cream, but try a dash of raw vanillin: the experience is far from sweet and pleasant.
Buy vanilla podsLike buying saffron in threads, it reduces the risk of counterfeiting. It reduces, but does not cancel, as sometimes poor quality beans are flavored with vanillin or Tonka bean extracts.
Where and how to enjoy vanilla
In the online store Exotic Land You can buy tubes of two vanilla beans from Madagascar (8 g for € 9,80) or a Tahitian bean (6 g for € 8,20), thicker than the first. What you have to do is cut the pod in two lengthwise and infuse it in some hot liquid. You can also scrape and use those dark spots, which have earned the nickname of vanilla caviar, to give a special touch to any preparation, from desserts to meat and fish. Of course, you should never keep vanilla in the fridge because it gets rancid.
An option to whole beans is vanilla extract. Highly recommended those of Nielsen Massey, a Dutch company that has a global distribution network. Pure Madagascar Bourbon Vanilla Extract –Also available in its eco and fair trade variant–, Mexican vanilla (more spicy), Tahitian vanilla and vanilla mix are the sweet alternatives from which to choose.
Madagascar Bourbon Vanilla Ice Cream
Vanilla is probably the quintessential ice cream. Legend has it that he was the President of the United States Thomas Jefferson who introduced ice cream to his country. We do not know if it is true, but, apparently, the vanilla was never missing in the finery at the White House. Mövenpick sells a Bourbon vanilla ice cream from the tropical forests of Madagascar (Premium and sustainable) made with fresh cream from Swiss cows. In Spain it can be found in two formats: the 900 ml and the 175 ml (with a plastic spoon under the lid). A classic of the brand for 25 years perfect for all seasons.
Chocolate and vanilla, an ideal mix
Chocolate with 36% organic cocoa milk, cane sugar and a pinch of Bourbon vanilla from Madagascar from the Pollachi organic vanilla plantation. It is one of the exclusive chocolate bars of the Spanish house ChocoLate Organic, which pays special attention to the quality and origin of its raw materials. Any of these tablets is a real treat for the palate, so, if we are of more daring tastes, we can opt for the milk chocolate, chili, cinnamon and, of course, vanilla. The price of each 70 gr tablet is close to 4 euros.
White, organic, fair and with a touch of vanilla
Clipper it’s a brand of has English that cares about what is inside the bags it manufactures. Apart from being a round pleasure for true tea lovers, their teas and infusions are organic, fair trade and, why not say it, they have impeccable packaging. In other words, these teas are ideal for everyone who abhors the beaten track even when it comes to having a simple cup of tea. Among its most gourmet proposals, is this white tea with a creamy hint of vanilla. It can be bought online, in specialized stores (such as Isolée in Madrid) or in supermarkets in the organic products section. Its price is above average, but it is worth it.