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Often large household appliances, especially a washing machine, knock out an automatic machine, RCD or traffic jams. She does not have time to finish the washing, the program stops, and at the same time the light in the whole apartment disappears. Sometimes it happens that the light is on, but the SMA still does not turn on.
We will deal with electrical issues further – we will tell you why the machine can knock out the machine and what to do in such cases.
Why does the washing machine knock out the machine
First of all, with such a failure, many immediately go to the shield or counter to switch the toggle switch of the machine to the on position and continue washing. If the failure is caused by a system overload, such actions unacceptable – when you turn on the machine on your own during overloads, you risk breaking expensive household appliances.
Important! Experts agree that in such a situation, you need to find the reasons why the traffic jams or the machine were knocked out, or call an electrician to fix the problem.
If you decide to first find out on your own why the machine knocked out the RCD or plugs, check out the typical reasons for such a failure:
- Installation of an unsuitable protective device and difavtomat.
- Worn or improper wiring.
- The short circuit of the power cord of the washer.
- Socket failure.
- Network filter failure.
- Shorting the buttons on the control panel (most often the start key).
- Failure of the control module CM.
- Burnout of the terminals and damage to the wiring of the automatic machine.
- Breakdown of other components: electric motor or heater.
Important! If you have never repaired an electrician before, then entrust the search for the causes of a breakdown to repairmen (electrician, washing machine repairman).
Next, we will consider each of the problems separately.
Communication problem
The washing machine puts a significant load on the power grid, which is why manufacturers recommend using a network that is protected by an RCD.
Do not ignore the electrical wiring. To connect the SM to the network, you should choose a VVG cable with parameters of 3×2,5 mm – this applies to all machines, with or without drying.
In life, few people bother with the correct connection of the machine – it is included in a common outlet with the rest of household appliances, and with the help of an extension cord, and even using an adapter. All this has a merciless effect on the wiring and power cord, and can lead to melting of the outlet. Protection immediately reacts to such factors, so the machine knocks out the machine, the power supply is de-energized.
Diagnosing the problem is quite easy: pay attention to the wiring – it should darken, the socket may melt, and the smell of burnt plastic will hover in the air.
To prevent and prevent the problem, take the following actions:
- Take care of laying a separate network according to the connection diagrams of the washing machine.
- Pick up sockets with a moisture-proof housing.
- Be sure to install an RCD.
If there is a suspicion of a violation of the integrity of the SMA wire, use a tester to diagnose a breakdown. What should be done:
- Unscrew the plinth panel of the machine.
- Remove the fasteners holding the power cord.
- Ring the wire strands to diagnose a breakdown.
- If everything is fine with the wire, but there are burnt terminals, they need to be replaced.
If the cord is in order, check the machine further. The next element that could, because of which she could knock out the machine, is a surge protector. Usually, a power wire is also associated with this element. Manufacturers of household appliances produce a filter in combination with a cord – then you need to change the entire kit.
The part is not repairable, therefore, after checking the filter with a tester and visually, it is worth replacing the part if a breakdown is detected.
Sometimes the machine can be knocked out due to a violation of the connections between the filter contacts and the power cord. This leads to burning of the contacts of both the filter and the cord. You should not bother with stripping the contacts – replace them and the filter so that there are no new failures in the power grid in the future.
Buttons are an equally rare reason why the machine can knock out when the machine is turned on. Time does not spare the buttons, so when you press them, it can break through contacts, which overloads the network.
In this case, you should act like this:
- Disassemble the washing machine (read about the analysis of individual models in the relevant articles: How to disassemble an LG washing machine; Bosch; How to replace a bearing in a Samsung washing machine).
- Take a tester to check the start button contacts.
- At the same time, ring the contacts of the remaining buttons and their wiring.
Controller, wiring and terminal problems
If during the check it turned out that everything is in order with the cord, filter and buttons, then you have to painstakingly check all the electrics.
If you have already begun to disassemble the control unit, then start checking from it. First, ring each posting, starting with places where there are gaps and violations.
Attention! The control panel is a complex and expensive part, so think carefully about whether it is worth checking it manually or is it better to entrust this task to specialists.
If the problem is not in the controller, then ring the wiring that goes to the electric motor, pump, heating element, sensors, UBL and other elements. All burnt places need to be replaced, even if they are in working condition. When the wires fail (and they will definitely do it), you will again have to disassemble the body of the machine.
Blame the heating element or the engine
If checking the previous details did not work, then there is a possibility that the water heating in your washer is broken. TEN – the cause of the breakdown of every third washing machine due to too hard water. The plaque remaining on the heater ceases to transmit heat over time, due to which the heating element begins to burn out.
Often the heater fails due to a broken pump. If the pump runs all the time without shutting down, then cold water will constantly enter the system, which the heating element will try to heat.
To check the heating element, perform the following manipulations:
- Arm yourself with a tester by setting the selector wheel to 200.
- Open the front or back panel (depending on the make and model of the car: in Bosch and Siemens – the front, in other common brands – the back). To remove the cover, just unscrew a few fasteners.
- At the bottom under the drum you will find the heater shank and its 2 pins.
- Attach the tester probes to the contacts and look at the display.
- If the indicator is in the region of 30 ohms (+/- 15 ohms), then everything is in order with the heater.
- If the indicator is higher or lower, then the heating element needs to be replaced.
- To get the heater, you need to unscrew the central nut, push the bolt inward and pull the part towards you.
Attention! For replacement, buy only original replacement parts that fit your make and model of CMA. If you buy a fake heating element or the wrong one in terms of power, then it will either not work or will quickly break.
The engine is another more rare, but possible reason for knocking out the machine. We do not recommend checking or repairing the motor yourself. But if you are confident in your abilities, then use the tips from the page “How to check the washing machine motor.”
We advise you not to let the problem take its course, but try to find out the cause of the failure yourself or contact the wizard. The instructions in our article will help you.