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The normal cycle did not end with the spinning of the laundry as expected, but with the program stopped? In this case, a fault code could be displayed on the display. But most often the technique does not tell exactly where the breakdown occurred. If the washing machine freezes on the spin cycle, you will have to find the cause of the malfunction yourself.
Indirect reasons for stopping the washing machine
After washing and rinsing, did the washer freeze or did it spin the drum several times and stop? Start by eliminating the causes associated with the features of the control of the machine. Namely:
- Check the set mode. Perhaps you have selected a program without draining and spinning? This is likely when washing woolen and delicate fabrics. Then it is enough to turn on the spin to get the job done.
- Make sure that the drum is not overloaded with laundry. When things get wet, they become heavier, and high speeds can damage the drive mechanism. Therefore, the machine stops working. It is enough to open the hatch and get some of the things.
- Are you sure it’s not the reason? imbalance? This happens when one big thing is loaded. The drum spins, which knocks the laundry into a heavy lump and leads to imbalance. To fix the problem, distribute the items evenly in the drum.
Such errors in handling equipment lead to a stop of all automatic washing machines that are equipped with electronic control. These may be manufacturer’s models. Samsung, LG, who are “Indesite‘ and other brands.
Why SMA hangs on the spin cycle: breakdowns
If the above causes are verified and the problem persists, then there is a problem. You should start by inspecting the drum and looking for a foreign object that got there during washing. It can even block rotation bra bone, so the part must be obtained.
Look for buttons, brooches, small textiles: socks, stockings, etc.
What else could cause the hang:
- Depreciation of the shock-absorbing device. Machines with modern controls capture every inaccuracy in the operation of the mechanism. During spinning, a strong vibration occurs, which is absorbed by dampers or shock absorbers. Otherwise, the technique would jump around the room. So, the wear of these elements could lead to a stoppage of work. Shock absorbers need to be replaced.
- Belt problems. This is typical for models with a belt drive. It is the belt that transmits the rotation from the engine to the tank. Over time, it stretches, loses elasticity or flies out of place. You need to check the mechanism.
- Malfunctions of the engine and tachometer (Hall sensor). The electrical part of the motor could break or wear out brushes. The tachometer is responsible for controlling the engine speed, therefore, in the event of a breakdown, the part needs to be replaced.
- Damage to the pressure switch (water level sensor). It is the pressure switch that informs the module about the amount of water in the tank. If it does not work, the work hangs between rinsing and spinning.
- No drain. After washing and rinsing, the CMA drains the water into the sewer. It is clear that if there is water in the drum, the spin will not start. The drain system should be checked for blockage.
The most severe case is a malfunction of the control board. The reason may be a voltage drop in the network or the effect of moisture on the elements. In any case, a professional diagnosis is required.
Pure plum
First of all, the drain filter is cleaned, which takes the brunt. For this:
- Open the small plinth panel under the hatch.
- Substitute a flat container.
- Unscrew the filter. Water will flow immediately.
- Remove stuck hair, threads and small objects.
Then the drain pipe, hose and, finally, the sewer are checked. It is easier to get to the branch pipe through the bottom or back wall of the SMA. Remove the screw and loosen the clamp that secures it to the pump.
Photo 5 It’s hard to confuse the nozzle with something else – it’s a thick big hose inside the SMA
Disconnect and clean the pipe. Do the same with the hose, but be sure to disconnect the other end that goes to the siphon or sewer.
Flush the hose of debris and dirt. This visual video will help:
The siphon can be cleaned manually, and for pipes, use special tools.
Checking and replacing the shock absorber
The breakdown could have been preceded by signs such as increased vibration during spinning, body jumps, knocks and squeaks. The shock absorbers are located under the CMA tank and, thanks to internal springs, dampen vibrations during operation of the equipment. Rarely, but parts are still subject to wear.
Most often, a malfunction occurs due to mechanical damage, wear of the fastening bolts or gasket of the element. Checking the performance of dampers is not difficult. Do this:
- Unplug the machine.
- Remove the two screws at the back and remove the top cover.
- Press down on the tank, pushing it down, then release abruptly.
Watch the movements. If the tank jumped up and remained in place, the shock-absorbing devices worked. If it starts to wobble from side to side, it needs to be replaced.
You can get to the shock absorbers in different ways, depending on the model of the washer. If the bottom is removable, then turn the case on its side. In other cases, you will need to remove the front or rear panel.
Important! In washing machines “Samsung” and “Hansa» The shock absorber is removed together with the tank. If you are not ready for a complete disassembly of equipment – contact the master.
Mount dampers and shock absorbers may vary. Most often they are held by plastic bushings.
To get them, you need to press the latches on the inside. If the parts are removable, then the fasteners are at the top and bottom. It is better to immediately replace the devices with new elements, because the repair will extend normal operation by only a couple of years.
The video will help you deal with the replacement of dampers:
Solving belt problems
To understand that it is time to check the belt, the following signs will help:
- freezing and stopping of the drum during the spin cycle;
- slow scrolling of the drum;
- the launch of the program and the rumble of the motor is replaced by a freeze;
- the drum turns too easily when turned by hand.
What to do:
- Disconnect equipment from the mains and water supply.
- Remove the top cover.
- After unscrewing the bolts around the perimeter, remove the back panel.
Examine the belt. If it is stretched or torn, you will need a new element to replace it. If the belt has fallen off and lies on the bottom of the case, try putting it back in place. Perhaps this repair will be limited.
How to properly put on the drive belt:
- Put the belt on the engine pulley immediately.
- Then gradually on the tank pulley, scrolling it clockwise.
- Make sure the belt is in the grooves and the tank rotates normally.
Experts recommend replacing the element immediately. If the belt flew off once, it means that it has already begun to stretch and soon the problem will repeat.
Inspection of the motor and tachometer
Is everything in order with the drive mechanism? Then inspect the engine immediately. The first thing to check is the carbon brushes. These parts transmit current to the motor shaft, which allows it to rotate and start the entire mechanism. Over time, the brush rods wear out (graphite material is soft), so they need to be replaced.
Dismantle the engine, which is located under the tank:
- Disconnect wiring.
- Unscrew the fixing bolts.
- Swinging the motor back and forth, remove it from the housing.
Unscrew the screws on the sides of the motor and remove the brushes. Worn half or more rods require replacement. It is enough to put new carbon brushes in the grooves, fix the spring and screw in the screws.
Electrical winding requires careful diagnosis. To do this, a dial-up with a multimeter is carried out. It is not advisable to change the burnt winding, you will have to buy a new engine or washing machine.
Next, check the Hall sensor, which is located on the motor shaft.
It is not always a matter of a malfunction, sometimes contacts move away from the sensor if the part is displaced by strong vibrations. Therefore, fix the tachometer more tightly, reconnect the wiring. The item is not repairable. If broken, replace the Hall sensor.
Pressure switch replacement
The main purpose of the pressure switch is to measure the amount of liquid in the tank. This happens by increasing and decreasing pressure, after which the sensor sends a signal to the control module. Next, the drain or water intake mode is turned on. The cause of the problem may be a blockage of the sensor tubes or its breakdown.
The level sensor is located under the top cover of the machine. This is a small round or rectangular piece to which tubes are connected.
Checking the device is simple: remove the pressure switch from its place by disconnecting the wires and unscrewing the fasteners.
Check the tube for blockage. If everything is in order, blow into it. Do you hear clicks? This points to a work item. If no sounds are heard, it probably needs replacement. The connection is carried out in the reverse order.
In conclusion, we recommend that you do not rush to disassemble the equipment. It is better to double-check the installed programs and the correct loading of the laundry. Only after that gradually move on to checking the components and parts.