The temptation of a smooth body

Behind the prosaic question about the hairs on the skin – to leave them or not? – is a much more complex story about our relationship with our own body, gender and sexuality.

“I do everything – legs, armpits, bikini area – and when I leave the beautician afterwards, I feel completely different – ​​light, beautiful, seductive,” admits 37-year-old Tatyana. – The body seems to wake up from hibernation. After epilation, the skin becomes smooth, it feels the air, the sun’s rays, the touch of clothes in a completely different way … There is something exciting, almost sexual in this.

It would seem that such a trifle – hairs on the skin, just a few millimeters of the “animal” heritage that we inherited from distant ancestors – but they do not leave any of us indifferent, exciting our feelings, fantasies, desires … and much more. And in this regard, there are radicalists among us – leave everything or spare nothing. The dictates of today’s fashion? Not really, says culturologist Olga Weinstein, it has always been like this: both in ancient Rome and in ancient Egypt, women removed body hair. “The absence of hair is a sign of the canonical ideal body. Apart from rare exceptions, in the visual arts, as a rule, the naked female body was devoid of hair until the era of decadence. There is a historical anecdote according to which the XNUMXth-century English art historian John Ruskin fainted on his wedding night, the first time he saw the female body as it really is.

Hair removal methods

with temporary effect

  • Razor (legs and armpits): painless and quick, although the hairs grow back in a day, and daily shaving irritates sensitive skin.
  • Depilatory cream (legs, armpits and bikini area): quickly and painlessly destroys keratin in the supercutaneous part of the hair, the effect lasts for 2-3 days.
  • Electric epilator (legs, armpits for the bravest): the effect is long-term, but the procedure is painful. The epilator plucks out hairs that grow back in two to three weeks.
  • Wax/sugar epilation (legs, armpits, bikini area; at home or in the salon): a rather painful method, it allows you to get rid of hair for two to three weeks. Hot wax epilation works well even on short hairs, but the cold epilation method is more gentle on the blood vessels and capillaries of the skin.

with final effect

  • Electrolysis (all areas on the body and face): the method is effective for hair of any color and is guaranteed to remove them permanently. A thin electrode is inserted into the hair follicle (bulb); an electrical impulse causes a micro-spark of very high temperature, which destroys the hair. The downside is the pain of the procedure and its duration (about 9 sessions are required for each zone).
  • Laser hair removal (all areas on the body and face): not too painful and with an efficiency of almost 100%. The laser generates an impulse that destroys the hair follicle. Cons: The method only works on dark hair.
  • Photoepilation (all areas on the body and face): practically without pain, but for a long time and not with a XNUMX% effect. The follicle is destroyed by a series of light pulses.
  • Ultrasonic hair removal (all areas on the body, except for the bikini): painless (at the stage of ultrasound), but for a long time. First, the hair is removed with wax, and then with the help of ultrasound and a special gel, the process of division of the germ cells of the hair slows down and the follicles are partially destroyed.

Emilia Goncharova

Pros and cons

Religion, climate, hygiene – arguments for or against epilation have changed in different eras. However, no matter how meaningful the regular care of the body hidden under clothing is, this procedure has always allowed us to draw a visible line between man and animal, the nature of our body and the cultural codes of society. “Hair removal has become a way for us to declare our identity – social, gender, sexual,” says Olga Weinstein. – Hair is perceived as an animal principle, as a symbol of unbridled instincts – and at the same time, sexual power. Just as a religious society requires a woman to cover her head in order to “mute” her sexuality, so the hairs on the legs, which are too “loud” about the biological life of the body, must be removed.” The situation is somewhat different with the bikini area hidden from prying eyes: if animals equipped with thick hair have hairless areas on their bodies, then these are just the genitals! Therefore, the epilation of this zone can also express the opposite desire – rather, to strengthen the sexual accent. Do not forget that, the culturologist believes, that the female body today is still perceived as a consumer item: “A woman is secretly required to constantly be in shape, and for this it is necessary to practice self-care rituals, even if such procedures are sometimes quite painful.” So, on the one hand, there are hairs growing inexorably on our body, and on the other, more and more numerous and effective means of hair removal. And we ourselves are there – with more or less vegetation on the skin, depending on our ideas, fantasies or internal barriers. From time to time, the refusal to epilate becomes for some a form of protest against the expectations of society (for example, reminds Olga Weinstein, for American feminists). Or a way to attract attention: so, an actress Julia Roberts at the London premiere of Notting Hill in 1999, she showed off her unshaven, albeit neatly “decorated” armpits. There are also people who are especially committed to the principle of naturalness – for example, in Germany, Spain or Portugal. But even if these exceptions are admitted, it can still be argued that hair has long lost the right to publicly appear on exposed areas of women’s skin.

Men: the right to choose

The presence of hair on the male body is still associated with masculinity, but many of our contemporaries prefer to keep this “secondary sexual characteristic” under control. “With the advent of a new type of metrosexual in the 90s of the last century, men began to use techniques and procedures that were previously considered exclusively female,” says culturologist Olga Vainshtein. This is confirmed by the master of the Moscow beauty salon “BaroN” Emilia Goncharova: according to her, approximately 15% of male clients regularly epilate various parts of the body, and 5% also remove hair in the intimate area, sometimes preferring their curly design (for example, in the form of a crown or Soviet symbols). Olga Vainshtein does not rule out that the visual images of porn culture, access to which has become extremely easy in the age of the Internet, also played a certain role in the spread of this fashion. Today, however, “stereotypes are less dominant than they used to be in modern men,” said Guillaume Cadot, consumer trends specialist at French research firm Ipsos. – In their minds today, all models coexist: not only a smooth body, like a gladiator, a clean-shaven chin or head, but also the still relevant three-day stubble and a trimmed beard. We’re seeing signs of a return to the overtly masculine that men have kind of lost sight of.”

Thirst for the ideal

You only need to look at summer beaches, magazine covers or the bodies of models in advertising shots to see who has emerged victorious from a duel of razors and hairs. Today, epilation has firmly entered the triad of skin signs that are considered flawless: without hair, cellulite and wrinkles. That is – without age and gender-specific signs. “Baby-like skin is how we perceive smooth, hairless skin,” notes Olga Weinstein. “Hair removal seems to erase sexual characteristics, and with them age,” explains psychoanalyst Svetlana Fedorova. “The absence of hair in intimate areas creates a feeling of innocence, inexperience, insecurity.” Such skin is associated with a child’s body that has not passed the stage of puberty. And the modern canons of femininity are based on this ideal of delicate skin, causing a desire to caress. Among other things, they express our longing for youth.

Today, the arsenal of hair removal products is enriched with more and more effective technologies. Including auxiliary ones, such as shower gels that make shaving easier, deodorants that slow down hair growth and creams that make the skin smooth and silky … For most modern women, this is a familiar procedure: 66% epilate regularly, 30% from time to time, and only 2% never*. An interesting paradox: in an era of increasing popularity of natural nutrition, natural fabrics and “natural” makeup, the destruction of natural vegetation on the body has become the norm.

So what is it for us – a personal choice, a simple desire to feel better in a body devoid of hair, more or less conscious submission to modern aesthetic requirements? Let’s not forget: to remove hair everywhere or to do with partial epilation, to coincide with the beach season or to do it all year round – we make this decision ourselves. In the end, enjoying the summer lightness, literally feeling the pleasure of the caress of the warm wind and the sun’s rays on your skin is a completely natural desire.

* The survey was conducted on our website in April 2011.

About it

  • “History of Beauty” Dominique Paquet (AST: Astrel, 2003).
  • “On the Process of Civilization” Norbert Elias (University Book, 2001).

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