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This season’s fragrances are less and less unisex. An overview of the latest and most interesting perfume novelties.
Each era has its own way of wearing fragrances – and it can tell a lot about our desires, mores and the mood of society, says perfume historian Elisabeth de Feydeau*. “It is worth looking into the past to see that for a long time fragrances served as a tool of seduction,” she says. – Then, in the 60s of the last century, on the wave of female emancipation, there was a fashion for fresh colognes, suitable for both men and women. The fragrance has become a symbol no longer of mutual seduction, but of well-being – well-being, mental and physical well-being. And today the wind has changed again: clear, pure unisex fragrances have been replaced by frankly feminine and convincingly masculine fragrances. Regendering – the definition of gender roles and territories anew – has also touched the perfumery sphere. Men again choose woody, spicy, fougere fragrances, and women choose floral and sweet oriental ones.” Note that this trend is also in tune with today’s fashion wave – emphasized femininity, dizzying high heels, thin waists and dresses in the style of the 1950s.
flower women
In the exclusive collection of La Collection Privée Christian Dior, a new, twelfth fragrance has appeared – Grand Bal. A lush floral composition built around a note of jasmine from French Grasse, celebrating Christian Dior’s favorite theme of the ball and ball gowns. The Maison Carita launches its first perfume – and once again a boudoir theme: a composition of rose, violet and iris with a sweet vanilla trail is enclosed in a retro bottle with a pomp and a bow. Yves Saint Laurent celebrates the 50th anniversary of the Maison’s history of perfumery by reviving the finest fragrances for women and men. The women’s part of La Collection included Y, Yvress, Nu, In Love Again. The latter is especially noteworthy: a very springy combination of rose, peony, red berries and tangerine instantly creates an association with an airy dress and glass shoes. Finally, Gucci dedicates a collection of five Gucci Flora The Garden fragrances to the garden theme. Each reveals itself around its flower or fruit – magnolia, tuberose, gardenia, violet and tangerine. The inspiration for the collection was the famous floral ornament of the brand – Flora, created especially in 1966 for Princess Grace Kelly of Monaco.
Male charm
Following Sport Code, Armani, and Homme Sport, Dior, Allure Homme Sport Eau Extrême, Chanel, and Homme Sport, Kenzo continue the theme of energetic masculine fragrances in which fresh marine notes play in contrast with spicy and woody accords. “In sports fragrances, I wanted to bring to the fore the feeling of strength, enthusiasm, challenge,” says perfumer François Demachy, the author of two energetic masculine compositions at once – Homme Sport, Dior, and Homme Sport, Kenzo. “For Kenzo, I chose bitter grapefruit, as well as mint and ginger, which give the fragrance tone and dynamism.”
When fashion trendsetter Gabrielle Chanel borrowed trousers, vests, and tweed jackets from the men’s wardrobe last century, her train of thought was that nothing emphasizes femininity more than an obvious masculine detail in a women’s wardrobe. “Traditionally masculine notes, such as vetiver, can also be beautiful on women’s skin,” Jacques Polge, perfumer of the House of Chanel, develops the theme. “Thus, today women willingly try on Sycomore from the Les Exclusifs collection, as well as Allure Homme Edition Blanche and Egoiste Platinum, conceived for men.” It seems that true women and real men (or at least those who aspire to be), we still tend to treat our differences with sympathy and obvious interest …
* E. de Feydeau “Les Parfums” (Robert Laffont, 2011).
Elisadefeydeau’s Perfume Blog – elisadefeydeau.wordpress.com