Today, every home is filled with modern household appliances “to the dump”: washing machine, microwave, refrigerator. Everything measuredly “grumbles” and works, periodically informing the user about problems. It happens that the technique visually works, but in fact it does not function. Speaking of the refrigerator: it often happens that the appliances do not buzz, but the light is on.
If the sounds of the compressor or relay clicks are not heard, and the products on the shelves begin to deteriorate, and with all this the refrigerator does not turn on, and the light is on, this is a breakdown.
When the light is on, but one of the compartments (or both at the same time) does not freeze, this is not a temporary failure or an electronic “glitch”, in most cases the failure of one of the components of complex equipment is to blame.
It also happens that the compressor does not start, the light is off – then you can declare its complete breakdown. But today’s review is devoted to the problem of a disconnected refrigerator with a light bulb on. Consider the signs and causes of such a problem below.
Why does the engine stall
When your refrigerator “Indesit”, “Atlant” or “Nord” has stopped freezing, but in the main compartment the light or LED-backlight is on (or off), first of all check the following points:
- If you have new equipment crammed with modern features and they all work, but the chamber is warm, check correct installation. If the chassis is not level and you did not use a technical level when installing, the door may not fit snugly. The “smart” model will not allow the motor to turn on if warm air enters the chamber. It makes no sense to cool the air – its flow does not stop. Some models will notify the user of a problem by highlighting corresponding error code on the electronic scoreboard.
- If you have a Biryusa refrigerator and the light is off (as well as ZIL, Dnepr and any old model), pay attention to the power cord, plug or socket. Perhaps the technique is not “to blame”, and the root of the problem lies on the surface. If the electrical component is in order, the old refrigerator could fail due to an internal malfunction. Turn off the power to the equipment, unload the shelves and wait for the master.
Important! If the light in the refrigerator went out, but the motor is working, check the light bulb. And if the light stops burning, and the equipment does not turn on, a breakdown has occurred.
What to do if the light is not on and the motor is not working:
- Restart refrigerator.
- If the compressor turns on and the light does not come on, inspect the light bulb.
- If it’s burned out, replace it.
- Halogen, fluorescent or incandescent lamps are easy to replace yourself – remove the cover and reinstall the lamp.
- If you need to change the LED lamp, proceed carefully or contact the service.
It is worth considering in more detail the reasons why the device refuses to work. Narrow down the range of possible breakdowns by reading our table of possible failures, causes and symptoms:
| Evidence | What is the problem | How to troubleshoot |
| There is light in the chamber, but the motor is “silent”. Refrigerator clicks but does not start. | Compressor motor burnt out. Clicks are just accompanying signs. They are issued by a starting protective relay, which is responsible for starting and shutting down the compressor. If the motor manages to turn on, it “cuts down” almost instantly. | The compressor needs to be reinstalled. Sometimes this repair is so expensive that it is easier to buy a new refrigerator. |
The light is on, the compressor does not turn on. Clicks are heard. Refrigerator model with electromechanical type of control. | Broken temperature controller (thermostat). The device is responsible for temperature control in the chambers. If the thermostat fails, the control unit does not receive a signal that there is not enough cold in the chamber. As a result, the motor turns off. | Replacing the thermostat will solve the problem. |
| There is light, the motor is off (relevant for models equipped with an electronic control type). | Breakage of the air sensor of the main chamber. This sensor, due to a malfunction, does not report to the board the temperature increase in the chamber, so the motor does not start. | The sensor needs to be replaced. |
| Neither the light nor the refrigerator is working. | Possible failure of the starting protective relay. | The relay is replaced with a new one. |
| Lighting may not be, but it may burn. | This is an electronic board failure. If the control unit is broken, then it does not read the sensor signals, and the motor does not start. | You need to flash or replace the board. |
When an imported or domestic refrigerator does not work (for example, “Stinol”), and the light is on, you should pay special attention to additional “symptoms” of the problem. Watch out for clicks and other signs. All of them will help the master in the initial diagnosis of the problem.
Sometimes failures occur due to force majeure. For example, an air sensor can burn out when there is a voltage drop in the mains. And with it, the light bulb can burn out. Therefore, the absence of light is not always an accurate indicator of breakdown.
Important! Install an RCD and a stabilizer to avoid trouble. And also use the services of professional workshops so as not to break the equipment completely. Remember that you cannot solve problems with electronics yourself if you do not have the skills.