The words “shine” and “radiance” are close in meaning – but only if we are not talking about skin care! A shiny nose or forehead will certainly upset many women, but we all would like to have a radiant complexion. What does the difference depend on?
Matte, pale skin until the beginning of the last century was a symbol of aristocracy: the faces of commoners shining with sweat could not be confused with the richly powdered faces of high society ladies. Much has changed radically over the past century, but the expression “powder your nose” remains relevant today. “Shiny skin is still associated with unkemptness,” says cosmetologist Sofia Bigvava, director of the Bellefontaine clinic. “However, now that the former class distinctions have disappeared, the glossy nose and forehead serve more as a reminder of teenage problems. We are not afraid of the shine itself, but everything that is associated with increased sebum secretion: blackheads, pustules, redness.
“Adolescence is also a time of hypersexuality, the manifestation of new and often frightening impulses,” recalls sexologist Irina Panyukova. – Shine on the skin during this period is associated with hormonal changes in the body – but the awakening of attraction also depends on it. This unconscious association remains with us later: a shiny nose seems to “let it slip” about the most intimate, “gives away” our desire. Another teenage phenomenon can be noted here: as a rule, a teenager always has some ideal idea of uXNUMXbuXNUMXbhow to look. Therefore, everything that violates this image (for example, shine on the skin) is unacceptable for him.
The question of moistening
Those who suffered from pimples in their youth, – the cosmetologist continues the topic, most likely, will continue to worry about the luster of the skin in the future. Such women do not like to cleanse their face with milk, preferring foaming gels and rough scrubs. They do not like thick creams, rich lotions and oils, but their cosmetic bags are constantly filled with powder and matting wipes, and in the bathroom – astringent tonics and tightening masks. But due to such “distortions” in care, the skin, along with the desired haze, often gets dehydrated. After all, the hydrolipidic film retains water and protects the epidermis. And if it is completely removed, then the moisture will begin to evaporate uncontrollably, the skin will become more vulnerable and defenseless against external aggression. And this leads to both an increase in its sensitivity and premature aging.
Owners of dry skin have a completely different attitude to shine: for them, on the contrary, dullness is synonymous with dullness, discomfort and poor complexion. “By the evening, I begin to feel a feeling of tightness, and the skin becomes noticeably dull,” admits 37-year-old Natalia. – This is especially noticeable if you have to spend the whole day in front of a computer in an air-conditioned office. I want to literally fall face down in a jar of cream!” For make-up removal, Natalya uses only thick milk, applying it on her face in a thick layer: “This is the only way I can restore comfort to my skin and feel how it literally relaxes under my fingers.” She also chooses saturated creams and is in no hurry to get them wet with a napkin: “I even like it when my face shines a little, so it seems younger and fit…”
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- How to help sensitive skin
in a good light
Each skin type has its own needs, Sofia Bigvava explains, which is why today in the cosmetic world there is a place for both matting products and products that give the skin comfort and radiance. The main thing is to use them correctly and in the right place. For example, you should not apply shiny powder (or, as makeup artists call it, shimmer) all over the face: it looks grotesque. But if you locally accentuate the cheekbones, chin, area under the eyebrow and the hairline with a shimmer, then the face will look more prominent and well-groomed. This technique is acceptable for mixed, even oily skin. But at the same time, it is better to treat the nose and forehead with a matting agent: the game of contrasts will work, and facial features will become more expressive. Also, for the internal “illumination” of the skin, a whole class of primers has been released – special base products that are applied over the day cream, before the foundation. These preparations fill in the unevenness of the skin, restoring its cherished radiance. Few people know that dullness appears due to the abundance of microshadows on the face: they are discarded by the walls of wrinkles, depressions, exfoliated scales, and the like. A smooth surface mechanically reflects light better than a rough one. The primers also contain reflective particles that capture and diffuse light in a special way, giving the skin a soft, healthy glow. They are included in primers and mattifying components that delicately absorb excess sebum. Thus, these preparations allow you to achieve the desired balance between shine and radiance.
Checkmate
Mattifying agents are also best used locally: gels to narrow pores and disinfectant correctors contain many drying components and can cause dehydration of the skin. They can not be applied to the eyelids: in this area there is not a single sebaceous gland. That is why the area around the eyes ages in the first place – after all, in fact, sebum is the best cream. Unless, of course, there is too much of it, the cosmetologist clarifies: “It’s not just about aesthetics – an excess of secret attracts dirt like a magnet and serves as a breeding ground for bacteria.”
Lotions containing alcohol instantly matte the face and give a pleasant feeling of freshness. The big disadvantage is that they completely deprive the skin of the hydrolipidic film (alcohol, as you know, dissolves fat). In response, sebum secretion reflexively increases, and soon the face begins to shine more. In addition, alcohol destroys intercellular bonds that are made up of lipids, causing moisture loss. Therefore, it is better to use alcohol-free lotions, the components of which do not dissolve fat, but delicately absorb its excess: they give a haze and do not harm the skin.
M. T.
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- Drink more water!
How to find the golden mean: get rid of unnecessary fat and at the same time not dry out the skin? Each brand has its own secret. But as a rule, the products include special, porous components: they absorb excess fat, and also disinfect the skin, preventing the growth of microbes. Another type of components are saloregulating, which affect the functioning of the gland itself. Usually these are derivatives of copper and zinc, as well as plant extracts … and oils. Yes, as paradoxical as it sounds, some oils are able to rid the skin of shine and debug the production of fat! This, in particular, distinguishes tea tree oils, nigella (black cumin), sage, lemongrass. “Due to problematic skin, I have always avoided products that could somehow be associated with the word “fat,” admits 26-year-old Olga. – Until one day I talked to a Melvita brand consultant: he studied my skin, scolded me for dehydration and explained that I needed to simultaneously reduce the secretion of the glands and stop the loss of moisture. And he advised nigella oil: after a couple of days, the skin condition improved noticeably! The most amazing thing is that this oil does not give shine: it is instantly absorbed, does not leave a film, narrows the pores, which improves the complexion. It turned out that finding a balance between radiance and brilliance of the skin is not so difficult: it is enough to reconsider your stereotypes and not go to extremes.