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The drum is the heart of any washing machine. Washing is not possible if the drum does not spin well or does not spin at all. In this case, it is important to correctly determine the cause of the breakdown and try to fix it yourself in order to save on repairs and return the washing machine to its former performance.
Next, we will look at the reasons why the drum of the washing machine does not spin well, and we will suggest methods for solving this problem.
Why is the drum spinning weakly and unevenly
The first thing you should worry about when trouble occurs with the drum is the cause of the failure. Based on the cause of the breakdown, repair methods are also determined. Most often, difficulties with the rotation of the drum arise for the following reasons:
- Overload. In many modern models equipped with sensors, washing does not start if too many things are loaded. If you suspect that you have loaded more than you should, cancel the program, open the hatch and unload the excess laundry.
- Drive belt wear. In this case, the drum will rotate if you twist it with your hands, but the machine itself will not be able to do this. Not necessarily the cause of the breakdown is the wear of the belt, it could simply jump off the seat.
- Motor brush wear. In machines with a commutator motor, the weakest point of the motor is its brushes. If the engine has not received proper maintenance for all the years of using the machine, it is highly likely that the brushes need to be replaced. Usually, after replacing the brushes, the performance of the SMA is completely restored.
- Programmer failure (electronic unit). This breakdown can be attributed to the most difficult, since firmware or module replacement can be quite expensive.
- Motor malfunction. If the drum rotates unevenly or does not rotate at all, the motor may be to blame. Short circuit or breakage are the most likely causes of failure for this case. As a rule, users trust such complex repairs to specialists.
How to independently find out what caused the breakdown
Primary diagnostics of a malfunction is within the power of any user and it consists in the following procedures:
- Please refer to the owner’s manual for the maximum allowable weight.
- Check if the sunroof is blocked. If the drum does not rotate when the sunroof is blocked, the drain filter is probably clogged.
- Turn the drum by hand. If the drum spins in manual mode, but stands still in automatic washing, there may be a problem with the tachogenerator, wiring, or control module.
- Check for foreign bodies in the cavity between the drum and the tank. If it is empty, then the heating element may be damaged. If the heating element is burned out, then the drum may not rotate, as the machine blocks the wash as a whole.
- Inspect the drive belt. It could come off or tear, then it needs to be fixed or replaced with a new one.
- Take the car apart and see if the bearings are leaking. If your CMA is already “aged” and the bearings have not been MOT, then it’s time to change these parts.
What to do when the drum is stuck
For repairs, you don’t need so much: an instruction manual, self-diagnosis with finding out the causes of the breakdown, patience and a few tools that can be found in the case of any home master.
Replace brushes
If the reason is the wear of the brushes of the electric motor, due to which the drum rotates tightly or slows down, these elements must be replaced. Repair consists in disassembling the CMA housing, removing the motor and installing brushes. The whole process is described in detail in the article “How to replace the motor brushes” – there you will find step-by-step instructions with photos and videos.
For owners of Bosch washing machines, we have a separate instruction “How to replace the brushes on a Bosch washing machine.”
Replace heating element
If the drum is jammed and the wash does not start at all, the problem is in the heater: you need to get and replace the heating element. It could simply burn out, close and even explode.
In each brand, the heating element is removed in its own way: in front or behind. For example, in SM Bosch, Siemens and AEG, the heater is replaced exclusively from the front panel. And in other common models (Whirlpool, Ardo, Zanussi), to replace the heater, just unscrew the back panel.
Replacing this part does not require special repair skills, and your main task is to purchase an original analogue that matches your brand and model of the washer. You will learn more about checking and replacing this element from the articles: “How to check the heating element” and “How to replace the heating element”.
We also have separate replacement instructions for owners of Indesit, Samsung, Bosch and LG washing machines.
Remove foreign object
If you notice that the drum rotates heavily or jerkily, sometimes sticks and wedges, and this is also accompanied by a knock from the body, it is quite possible that the problem is in an object stuck between the walls of the tank and the drum.
To check this, in most models it is enough to unscrew the back wall and remove the heating element (at the same time you can check it or clean it from scale). If it is difficult to see the object, shine a flashlight into the hole in which the heater was.
On a note! Bra underwire is usually the cause of drum jamming. Get a special cover for washing such clothes.
Check control module
If the drum spins slowly during washing, the control module may be damaged. In this case, firmware or replacement of the electronic unit is needed.
If you do not feel like a specialist in this industry, entrust the repair to a good master. If you are confident in your abilities, look for instructions in the article “Do-it-yourself washing machine control board repair”.
How to find and fix a broken vertical machine
If the drum of a vertical washing machine is jammed, the open doors in the tank may be the cause of this trouble. If the door latch is opened not at the top, but at the bottom of the tank, the drum jams and it stops rotating. In this case, you can try to turn the drum with a homemade hook made of wire, or disassemble the washing machine body by removing the side or bottom panel.
Repair without disassembly:
- Find a strong steel wire of such a diameter that it will pass into the holes of the drum.
- Bend 0,5 cm of wire from the end with pliers, making a small hook.
- Insert the hook into the hole.
- With one hand, wield a makeshift hook, with the other, illuminate yourself with a flashlight. The idea is that you need to close the sash so that you can turn the drum.
Important! There are models with very narrow holes, and no wire will fit through. If the CMA is no longer under warranty, simply widen the hole to the diameter of the wire.
If all else fails, then the surest way to solve the problem is to disassemble:
- Examine the drum and determine where the door is now. If it is from below, then it is easier to get to it from the bottom.
- De-energize the device and disconnect the SM from the water supply and sewerage.
- Lay the washer on its side.
- Remove the tray, being careful not to break the wires.
- Find a small counterweight and unscrew it (it is most convenient to do this with a socket wrench).
- Under the counterweight you will find a small hole – it is often enough to stick your hand in and close the opened sash.
Some masters practice disassembly from the side. To do this, you need to unscrew the side wall, take out the heating element, and through the hole in which it was, you can close the door to turn the drum.
Important! If the doors have had time to bend, it will be impossible to close their doors. In this case, there are two ways out: calling the master or disassembling the tank, removing the drum and aligning the valves.
Now you know what to do if the drum rotates weakly in the machine, barely turns, or it is jammed at all. Having determined the cause, in most cases you can fix the breakdown yourself without contacting the master.