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Madrid Fusion Reale Seguros 2020 has just closed its doors and leaves us some clues about where, how and what to eat to keep up to date with the latest gastronomic trends that will be on the stove next season.
En Summum, we make a selection of the most original and exclusive that elevate the palate experience to its maximum exponent.
A dessert-only restaurant (and no sugar)
René frank He is one of the most successful pastry chefs in the world. This German has worked for 15 years in some of the most prestigious places in Asia and Europe (in Spain, together with Oriol Balaguer or Pedro Subijana), and is currently the chef de TAIL* (Berlin, Germany), the first dessert-only restaurant with a Michelin star.
Frank came to Madrid Fusión to raise the question of the border between salty and sweet. Do we know what a dessert is? “When you think of dessert, you think of sugar, and you don’t have to.” Frank opts for sweet dishes with salty ingredients, dishes where “I never use sugar or any component of industrial origin, nor do I use any chemicals or dyes.”
“In our desserts we have the five flavors (salty, bitter, acidity, sweet and umami), which we obtain with organic gelling agents such as maple syrup, coconut syrup, honey… Also by ripening fruit, with reduction to vegetable juice such as beets or by fermentation ”. At CODA, it has dinner service and “Post dinner, with fewer dishes for those who want to come just for desserts.”
Honey and sea onion
Angel León (Aponiente ***, El Puerto de Santa María) returned to Madrid Fusión to continue surprising. with new dishes and products.
From the Madrid marine stew that can be tasted in the next season of Aponiente; to sea onion that Ángel León’s team has discovered in the land of the marsh: “with an incredible texture that is created under the tuberose, which we cover with the pil-pil of the worm to create a dish of two ingredients that have never been eaten, with two ingredients that match ”.
León has also presented the reconduction of one of the latest discoveries that he presented at the last Gastronómika 19: sea sugar. “We have changed the path of investigation and, finally, we can present the sea honey”, Aponiente’s latest achievement. This will be accompanied in the menu with a honeycomb, obtained “with an algae that resembles in shape”. The combination will “surely complete a plate of salted fish”, explained the Chef.
The best tapas in Spain
Nicolas Roman, from the Valencian restaurant Atic Palau Alameda the winner of the National Tapas Contest was proclaimed with the proposal “King crab with brioche, kimchee and toasted butter”.
The Valencian chef’s tapa simulated a fake crab shell with celeri (celery root) salad, a fiber-rich vegetable, accompanied by hedgehog hollandaise, kimchi milk, brioche bread with barley, begolas and butter. In the words of Roman himself, lThe inspiration for this dish came from Albufera itself, where it is common to see a multitude of crabs.
In his restaurant, the chef proposes several tasting universes, linked to each other but with some differences. On the one hand, Penthouse Bar, the most casual proposal in which a casual gastronomic offer is proposed; for another, Penthouse Restó It is the gourmet surprise, a space in which avant-garde and tradition are harmonized and where the product, technique and market cuisine are the real protagonists.
Monochrome on the plate
The french cook Guillaume Sanchez opened his new house NeSo, after participating in a television pastry chef contest (his initial training), traveling the Balkans and Central Asia for 14 months and returning to television with Top Chef 2016.
Guillaume has exposed his passion and predilection for monochromatic dishes at the congress, so that sight together with smell are the first two senses that any dish awakens.
Sanchez spoke little. By word. With his hands he was confining the beets, preparing a “Very particular texture”. Later with the juice of this tuber, this son of a soldier born in Bordeaux, explained that after four hours of the fire he gets a “Very concentrated and interesting texture”. “We put a little citric acid in it and this mixture allows us to give a little more flavor and avoid oxidation”, explained the chef of NeSo, his Parisian restaurant that already has a Michelin star.
Signature sandwiches
Beef roast beef, Parmesan cheese, Cajun mayonnaise, tomato, piparra and black olive vinaigrette along with arugula, coriander and mint salad. Are the ingredients of the perfect sandwich, the winner of the Reale Seguros Madrid Fusión 2020 Signature Sandwich contest, in which he imposed Ruben Uruñuela, a 26-year-old young man from Burgos with barely six months of experience in the restaurant La Jamada de Arrabal, in the center of the Castilian capital. ‘
‘Jambocata’ It’s called the award-winning sandwich. “The key to this sandwich is both the honesty with which it is made and the excellent quality raw material,” explained the winner, who had never entered a gastronomic contest before and whose recognition encourages him to continue in the kitchen.
The secrets of koji
Provides umami, that fifth and determining flavor, and is used to prepare rice, for the fermentation and production of miso and soy sauce, and to make the sake, rice wine, and the distillation of shochu brandy from sweet potato, potato or buckwheat!
Hitoshi Utsounomiya, member of the association of manufacturers of Shochu, the Japanese brandy revealed some of the koji’s secrets, the magical ingredient of Japanese cuisine.
traditionally named koji-kin, is an ancestral ingredient used to process food naturally, to make it more assimilable, nutritious and durable. It is grown on steamed rice, refreshed and inoculated with the spores of Aspergillus oryzae. Incubated for 3-4 days at 42 degrees, a white, cottony wool covers the rice when the koji is ready to be harvested.
The desert truffle
The «Mercecia claveri» fungus known as “The truffle of the desert” It grows in the arid lands of the Murcia region and enhances the flavor of other dishes made with local ingredients. “It is a product that adapts to the climatic conditions of the region,” explained Paco de Lara, a grower of the mushroom. «The fungus has been domesticated and cultivated. It does not require fertilizers and very little water is enough. ‘ Nevertheless, “It should not be confused with the black truffle, neither in price (around 40 euros per kilo) nor in flavor », warns chef David López Carreño, from the Local de Ensayo restaurant.
The inclusion of this mushroom in haute cuisine dishes comes from the great chefs of Murcia, always interested in local produce and the particular flavors of their land. For example, María Gómez, chef of a Michelin star restaurant, Magoga.
The most expensive bread in the world
The most expensive bread in the world It is baked in Malaga and is the work of master baker Juan Manuel Moreno who presented at the Sabor a Malaga stand, within the framework of Madrid Fusion Reale Seguros 2020, the most expensive bread in the world.
These are two 400-gram loaves that, among their ingredients, include one gram of edible gold and silver, powder, flakes and flakes and 20 grams of flowers also edible. Each of the pieces reaches a market value of 1.380 euros.
For its presentation, Moreno has made two versions of the most expensive bread in the world. The first, in addition to precious metals, has among its ingredients rock salt extracted manually and 20 grams of thinking. While the second loaf is made with rye bread, as well as quinoa and chia, and is dedicated to artisan bakery. Both loaves have been manually tattooed with floral motifs.
The best ham croquette in the world is eaten in Toledo
Alberto Garcia Escudero, Restaurant Ivan Sardinia from Toledo, was the winner of the VI Joselito International Championship for the Best Ham Croquette in the World.
«It is much more difficult to fry outside your usual environment», claimed the cook himself. Trained, among others, in the kitchens of El Bohío, the restaurant of the television Pepe Rodríguez, he confessed that he tasted a score of masses before finding the ideal.
García Escudero has been at the Iván Cerdeño restaurant opened in 2010 for seven years, where croquette is a true delicacy: «It is a classic of our menu». Without a doubt, a prize croquette that is well worth a visit.
Arzak’s Magical Enzymes
Elena Arzak presented the work carried out together with the Basque Culinary Center with fruit enzymes, “with which we marinate meat and fish to gain flavor and texture.”
The chef of the Arzak restaurant and fourth generation of a restorative family like few others, presented in Madrid Fusión the conclusions of the study carried out with enzymes mainly from fruits (papaya, pineapple, kiwi, orange or fig) to change the texture of both meat and fish, where they act on collagen. “We wanted to find a more umami flavor in the horse mackerel and we realized that by marinating them longer than we thought we would achieve it, in addition to also influencing the texture, gained in density”.
This is the culinary magic of the ubiquitous enzymes, unite ‘expert’ proteins They play a crucial role in the chemical reactions of our body.