Surprised raised eyebrow

Eyebrows are the main focus of fashionable make-up today. Even makeup artists who value casualness and naturalness take eyebrows very seriously. A well-defined shape, a precisely matched shade and perfectly styled hairs – achieving perfection is easier than it seems.

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Getty Images

As soon as they did not experiment with eyebrows in the last century. In the 30s and 40s they were turned into strings, and in the 80s and 90s they were defiantly launched, allowing them to grow as they please. Eyebrows either bleached or changed their color to match dyed hair, or, on the contrary, they were thickly antimony, inspired by the image of Cleopatra performed by Elizabeth Taylor. But then a new century came, and it was as if they forgot about the eyebrows, only emphasizing their natural shape.

Reasons for interest

Today eyebrows suddenly came to the fore. “The secret is that perfect eyebrows turn even a bare woman into a well-groomed and natural one,” explains Eduardo Ferreira, art director of Bobbi Brown. “But sometimes,” he continues, “women try to replicate a catwalk or magazine look. And in vain! Make-up there is usually hypertrophied, eyebrows are drawn too clearly. In ordinary life, such excesses are ridiculous. Aleksey Molchanov, the leading Lancôme makeup artist in Russia, agrees with him: “The most monstrous trend of the past year is the so-called Instagram brows. More than one hundred girls have appeared on this social network, doing extreme makeup that looks good in the photo. Their eyebrows are graphic, as if drawn in Photoshop. I sincerely advise against repeating this at home. And Elena Motinova, international make-up artist for Estée Lauder, adds: “Slightly tousled and combed up eyebrows are now popular. It looks very natural and immediately makes the face look younger.”

White-faced, black-browed…

The fashion for well-groomed eyebrows has led to the fact that all kinds of brow-bars began to open in the world and in our country. The range of their services used to be the subject of jokes, but today it is taken more than seriously. What are only eyebrow peeling, thread correction, tattooing, extension and lamination! And coloring is a separate issue. The desired shade is selected with a special palette, calculating all the nuances, from the tone of the skin, hair and eyes to the age and temperament of the client.

Cosmetic brands are not far behind. Last year, a kind of record was set for the release of new and updated old products for courting these two arches in the center of the face. But in fact, they are given to us by nature to protect the eyes from the salty sweat flowing from the forehead. But we do not even think about this utilitarian function of eyebrows, turning them into a tool of seduction, coquetry and a fashion accessory.

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Givenchy Карандаш Eyebrow Show, 01
Photo Shoot:
Nikolai Gulakov

First lesson

“Finding the right eyebrow shape is not such a trifle. Sometimes the effect is comparable to plastic surgery. It’s just a lot easier and cheaper. If everything is done correctly, you can visually correct facial features, the shape of the nose, and even look 10 years younger, ”says world-famous makeup artist Tom Pecheux. For this, small changes are enough. Add makeup to areas where there are few hairs, emphasize the bend of the eyebrow, find the right shade and shape.

Where to begin? “Self-selection of the first shape and shade of eyebrows is akin to self-treatment. Better trust a specialist. Not just a make-up artist (in make-up schools, eyebrows are given two hours at most), but a brow-master who has undergone special training, ”advises Alexei Molchanov. So, in the Moscow salon Brow & Beauty Bar there is a service that is ideal for the first time. The master will find the perfect shape and shade of eyebrows, explain how to care for them and maintain them in perfect condition. And if desired, he will provide the necessary arsenal of tools along with products for care and makeup.

DIY

But many, like 43-year-old Olga, prefer to do their own brows: “This is my personal little beauty ritual. And even the pain does not bring discomfort! I once went to the master, who picked up a great shape for me. After the session, I took a few selfies and saved them. Since then, I have been diligently copying that image. And she got so good at it that no one can do it better. If you want to follow suit, stock up on time, a magnifying mirror with good lighting, and a set of tools. Do not remove too many hairs – only those that extend beyond the main line (both below and above it) to outline a clear and neat arc. And best of all, paint over unnecessary hairs with a body pencil, bringing out the reference shape of the eyebrow. So you can experiment with its length and thickness without any damage to the appearance. And do not start plucking until you achieve perfect symmetry on both sides. Remember, the higher the center of the arc is, the more open the eyes seem and the thinner the cheeks. Just do not overdo it so as not to give the face a dazed look.

Ordinary shadows and pencils are easy to wash off with micellar water, but it is better to remove eyebrow lipstick with an oil-based product.

Makeup removers

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Biotherm Gel Biosource

For all occasions

Previously, the makeup industry only produced eyebrow pencils. Now we have a huge selection – tints, felt-tip pens, all kinds of gels: tint, different fixation with fibers for eyebrow density, and so on. In addition to ordinary pencils, wax, fixing hairs are also produced. For eyebrows, lipstick, liners, loose and pressed shadows were invented. Why so many? So that we can, by experimenting, find our ideal remedy. It is necessary to choose based on the density and color. For example, if you have sparse eyebrows with “bald patches”, give preference to persistent and well-pigmented products: pencils, felt-tip pens, liners. Brush all the hairs up with a brush, shade the empty spaces, achieving uniformity in color, and style the eyebrows with a transparent or tint gel. For beginners, makeup artists are advised to use tinted shadows. They are easier to erase if you make a mistake. Eyebrows too thin? Draw small dashes along the top and bottom lines to make them visually wider, and blend over the shadow. Lost density? Draw the hairs with a pencil and use a styling gel with fibers. On the contrary, are they very thick? The specialist will teach you how to trim your eyebrows with nail scissors. And forget about tint. Styling gel only.

How to choose a shade if you are a dyed blonde or redhead? “Be guided by the color of the growing roots. Think Marilyn Monroe. With a platinum shade of hair, her eyebrows matched her natural curls, ”advises Eduardo Ferreira. Now every self-respecting brand has at least six or even nine shades. Which, in the end, can be combined.

So, unexpectedly, from a routine procedure, eyebrow care has turned into a real show, where you act simultaneously in several roles: an artist, a hairdresser, a sculptor and even a plastic surgeon. It’s been a fascinating story.

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