Contents
The standard rose is neither a variety nor a species. Rather, it is the result of garden art, which is impossible not to admire. Luxurious bouquets of various shapes and colors, towering on the trunk, look great in single plantings in the middle of the lawn, in mixborders or along the path. They look like a small tree, they can be either 50 cm tall or over one and a half meters. It is they who give the design of a flower garden or the entire garden the vertical necessary to complete the image. Caring for them requires some knowledge and more trouble than for a spray rose, every wintering is a risk, maybe that’s why not every summer resident is in a hurry to start this beauty on his site.
Description
A rose on a bole is the result of several vaccinations, the union of a wild rose and a varietal rose, sometimes several. Rose hips are usually used for the main stock, it has a very strong root system. The stem, that is, the trunk, may be the result of grafting another variety of wild rose or, as it often happens now, canina roses. Rosa canina has a fairly strong root system, good resistance to frost and disease, so nurseries in the central part of Our Country use it for the main stock instead of wild rose. At a certain height (50, 70, 100 cm), a varietal rose is grafted onto the trunk, usually two vaccinations are made, less often three. It happens that roses of different colors are grafted.
Hybrid tea varieties and floribunda are the least common on the trunk, because it is difficult to form a beautiful “bouquet” of them, their powerful shoots grow upward, often becoming leafless at the base. Climbing and ground cover roses are the easiest to form and always look decorative, their shoots are quite flexible, perfectly formed in the right direction.
Standard roses bloom a little earlier than all the others, bloom profusely and for a long time, in the fall, with the help of special techniques, you have to remind them that the winter dormant period will soon come. They require more attention, not even because they are more difficult to care for, since each such rose, being almost at the level of the viewer’s eyes, attracts much more attention to itself than those flowers that are located below.
The slightest lack of trunk bark, dry leaves, withered flowers, broken branches of the crown – everything is striking. But thanks to this, it is easier to notice the first signs of diseases or parasites.
Video “Landing”
From the video you will learn how to properly plant this bush.
Selection of seedlings
Of course, it is better to buy seedlings in nurseries or stores with a proven reputation, it is desirable that the nursery itself is located nearby, then you can count on a good survival rate, taking into account climatic conditions. The high cost of seedlings is explained by the long and hard work carried out until the moment of sale. If we buy ordinary varietal roses at the age of one or two years, then a seedling on a trunk, ready for transplanting and flowering, can be four or five years old. And during this time he was vaccinated at least twice. Before buying, you need to find out what served as a stock, what kind and variety (or what varieties) were planted. This is important for further care and formation of the crown of the plant.
When choosing a seedling, you need to consider its crown, trunk and roots, if they are open. All parts of the plant should appear healthy and strong. Powerful, well-developed roots should not be sluggish or dry, there should not be any spots or irregularities on the stem, the branched crown should consist of shoots that have become woody at the base.
Since stem roses are very sensitive to moisture loss, it’s best to buy seedlings in containers, although you won’t be able to see the roots. The container must be at least 25 cm high, the soil must be clean, free of weeds or moss, moist, but without the slightest sign of mold.
Landing
When choosing a place for planting, you already need to think about how to cover a standard rose for the winter, because the crown will have to be tilted and laid on the ground (ideal), which means that there should be no building, no bush or tree, no concrete paths. And for the rest, the place is chosen, as for all roses – bright, protected from the north wind, on flat ground or a hillock. The soil needs clay with compost, humus and peat, slightly acidic.
The main thing is to find the right place, and the soil can be prepared before planting. If roses have already grown in this place before, then it is worth changing the layer of soil, up to 70 cm thick, so as not to provoke diseases and not to please the parasites that have settled in the ground. A good place does not have to be in the middle of a lawn at all, boles grow well among other ornamental or fruit crops, they are planted in flower beds. The crown rising above the ground usually gets more sunlight even in the light penumbra of trees. The best time is the end of April or the beginning of May, but seedlings from containers take root without problems even in the middle of summer.
Landing is carried out traditionally – a pit is prepared, larger in volume than a container, the earth is mixed with fertilizers, the seedling is lowered into the pit, covered with earth, trampled down the ground, watered abundantly. Some advise that you first pour a bucket of water into the pit, and then lower the roots of the seedling and sprinkle them with earth. In the absence of an earthen coma, care must be taken so that the roots do not intertwine and do not bend. At the end of falling asleep and tamping the earth, the seedling still needs to be watered. But it is very important not to forget a few points: before planting, a strong stake is hammered, to which the rose is then tied, the plant is positioned so that the bend of the root collar (the root cone, as it is sometimes called) is on the opposite side of the future slope of the trunk, meaning the shelter of the rose for the winter.
Some flower growers plant the plant at an angle, leave it for two weeks, and only then tie it to a support. Even the roots are advised to direct not just down, but slightly to the side, continuing the slope of the trunk. But after a while, the root system will still level out, although for the first two years it may help to tilt the trunk to the ground. For the same purpose, it is advised to divide the roots into two parts when planting and spread them to the sides so that the trunk fits like a person sitting on a twine. In a few years, the root system will recover from surprise, and all the roots will go the way they always do. But for a few years, you can make it easier for yourself to lay roses on the ground in autumn.
It is not necessary to deepen the root collar when planting. But be sure to do another procedure that is never done when planting spray roses. Moss, cotton wool or just a newspaper should be moistened with plenty of water, wrap the crown with them, and put a plastic bag on top. This is done in order to protect the plant from moisture loss until the roots begin to function normally in a new place. Such a “mask” is kept for up to two weeks, taking off and checking the condition of the crown every few days, and then moistening it again. The beginning of the development of the kidneys will show that the roots have taken root, you can release the crown. It is better to do this on a cloudy day or in the evening, so that the sun does not burn the fabrics weaned from the light.
Care
Care includes watering, fertilizing, pruning, weeding and loosening the soil, disease prevention, pest control, preparation for winter. It is better to water abundantly and infrequently, the schedule depends on the weather and soil characteristics. Fertilization can be traditionally root and foliar method. 
Until mid-summer, nitrogen fertilizers should prevail, and then they are excluded so as not to provoke the plant to late growth, but more potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are applied, which will give the rose more strength and even help to winter.
From the roots and on the bole below the graft, wild shoots often appear, which must be fought. If a rose is grafted onto a wild rose, then a wild shoot can grow half a meter in a week. It is worth cutting them off as they appear, otherwise they will weaken the rose, and may even destroy the varietal scion. Wild shoots are usually thorny with small seven-part leaves, they have really great strength, so it’s best not to let them grow.
Weeds should not be allowed to grow in the near-stem circle of a rose, it is often mulched with decorative pebbles or bark, and it happens that ground cover plants are planted there. 
Roses on boles rarely get sick, but we must not forget about prevention, so they must be sprayed in spring and autumn before wintering with iron sulphate or Bordeaux liquid, in the summer they also sometimes treat the crown with special preparations. Be sure to monitor the condition of the crown throughout the season, remove dry leaves, withered flowers, extra shoots.
Trimming
The main pruning is carried out in the spring, it is aimed at forming a beautiful crown. Cut the shoots according to the requirements of the variety grafted onto the trunk. But hybrid tea varieties, miniature roses and floribunda are recommended to be cut less than bush roses, it is advisable to leave them not 2-4 buds, as usual, but not less than 6. Strong pruning of spray roses is done in order to grow powerful high shoots, this is not necessary on the trunk.
Climbing roses remove last year’s shoots that have already faded, but if there are few replacement shoots, then last year’s ones are not cut out, but only shortened. In groundcover roses, too, usually only shorten the shoots.
All pruning should be carried out half a centimeter above a healthy kidney, leave an even cut, treat it with garden pitch (if it is more than 1 cm) or at least wood ash. The tool must be used very sharp in order to less injure the rosette, disinfect it before and during the pruning process.
Shelter for the winter
In Europe, standard roses are considered frost-resistant, in mild climates they are not covered at all, and where real winter happens, flower growers simply wrap the crown. We cannot afford this. Our severe frosts and sharp temperature fluctuations can kill plants. Therefore, roses need to prepare a real shelter for the winter, and the crown will have to be put on the ground. Most of the trouble happens with this horizontal installation. Young plants, properly planted, can still be gently tilted to the ground, but this becomes increasingly difficult to do as they age.
With the advent of September, you can gradually reduce watering to zero, then cut off the leaves and unblown buds. In October, autumn pruning should already be carried out in order to remove all unripe shoots, shorten all remaining ones, and remove all foliage. After that, the crown is treated with iron sulfate, allowed to dry, then tied with a rope for compactness. The stem is laid on the ground, often for this you have to dig up the roots. The crown is placed on the spruce branches, sprinkled with dry leaves (oak is good), then again with spruce branches. From above, the crown is covered with lutrasil or spunbond, leaving room for ventilation. If the grafting point does not lie on the spruce branches, you need to substitute a support under it, it can be polystyrene or plastic bottles, the main thing is that it does not hang in the air. The roots are covered with earth and sand, the trunk is wrapped with lutrasil, then the whole plant is covered with lutrasil, pressing it around the perimeter with stones or boards for gravity. During the rains, you can cover it all with a film. With the onset of real frosts, the film is removed, the lutrasil over the crown is completely closed.
Plants up to 50 cm tall can not be bent down. A roofing material pipe is installed around them, filled with dry leaves. This structure is covered with earth from below, and covered with lutrasil from above.
Reproduction
Roses on trunks are not propagated in the usual sense of the word, they are created by grafting. First, a fairly strong plant with a long, even stem is grown, usually it is a wild rose, it is grown for 4–5 years, shaping it in such a way as to achieve an annual shoot with a thickness of at least 1 cm, which branches at a height of one and a half to two meters. 
Often, for this, one species or variety of wild rose is grafted onto another. Then, 40 centimeters below the top, budding is carried out, that is, the desired variety of rose is grafted with an “eye”. Usually two “eyes” are grafted on opposite sides of the shoot so that the crown of the future rose is lush and branched. The following year, shoots grow from them, which are formed by pinching. A year later, the plant can be considered formed.
Video “Shelter for the winter”
From the video you will learn how to properly cover these bushes.
