Standard currant: planting and care, formation, reviews

Growing berry crops using new technologies is becoming increasingly popular with gardeners. A good option for small plots or adjacent territories is standard currant, which will not only reward the owners with an excellent harvest, but also please them with a spectacular, decorative look. However, in order to grow it, it is necessary to observe a number of mandatory agricultural practices when planting, caring for and forming a bush.

Features of currants on the stem

For the successful cultivation of standard currant bushes, a number of characteristic features should be taken into account:

• even a stalk with one bud at the top is suitable for growing standard currants;
• planting of several plants is carried out at a minimum distance from each other;
• currant varieties specially designed for this method of cultivation give a rich harvest, more plentiful compared to currants grown in the traditional way;
• picking berries is very convenient and simple;
• bushes in the form of boles are able to bear fruit for 15 – 17 years;
• the area of ​​the near-stem circle can be used for planting flowering plants, for example, marigolds, which will protect the berry crop from pest invasion;
• berries retain their attractiveness and freshness for a long time, as they do not lie on the ground;
• standard currant is rarely affected by pests, due to its specific form;
• good crop formation is ensured by uniform illumination of the crown;
• caring for the near-trunk circle becomes simple and convenient.

Despite the large number of advantages, the standard form of cultivation also has disadvantages. As a rule, this is insufficient winter hardiness and possible damage to the bushes by strong winds. However, such problems are easy to deal with if you provide standard currants with shelter for the winter in climatically cold regions and protect them from the winds by choosing the right landing site.

The best currant varieties for standard forms

Most often, red and black currants are grown in standard form, which are considered less whimsical compared to white or golden. The ripening of fruits on the bole is faster, and the berries contain more sugar than those of shrub currants. Therefore, they are tastier, more aromatic, have a more pronounced taste. In central Our Country, mainly black and red berry crops are bred in this way, the varieties of which are quite unpretentious. However, in Europe, the standard yellow currant of the “Imperial” variety is widely valued, which is not only productive, but also very decorative. Often it is used by gardeners precisely as an ornamental plant, which is the highlight of the garden. The variety is characterized by late flowering, which eliminates the risk of freezing flowers during spring frosts. Therefore, it can be successfully grown in central Our Country.

Black currant

The most popular varieties of black standard currant are:

• University;

  

• Stork;

  

• monastic;

  

• Memorable.

  

It is not recommended to grow blackcurrant on stems in regions with cold winters, as it is not frost-resistant, more sensitive to freezing of shoots than red currant. The fruiting peak of the berry crop falls on the 4th – 5th year.

Red currant on a bole

More unpretentious, compared to black, is the red currant on the trunk. It is frost-resistant and easily tolerates even the most severe winters. The most productive varieties with tasty and healthy fruits are:

• Natalie;

  

• Viksne;

  

• Accordion;

  

• Roundabout.

  

Red standard currant bears fruit most fruitfully in the 7th – 12th year of life.

How to grow standard currant

To grow standard currants, as in the photo, you must follow certain rules for planting and care. Young seedlings can be planted in spring or autumn, depending on the climatic zone. In regions with a large snow cover, autumn planting is also suitable; in areas with little snow, currants are planted in the spring, before bud break. In severe winters with a small amount of snow, bushes must be covered.

An important event when growing currants on a trunk with your own hands is a garter, because the thin branches of a shrub can break under the weight of the crop. To do this, a self-tapping screw is screwed into the installed support in its upper part, to which several pieces of twine are tied. Their number should be equal to the number of branches. Shrub shoots are tied with twine and pulled up a little. It turns out an umbrella-like design that keeps the bush intact and gives it a neat, compact shape.

Selection and preparation of the landing site

Currant prefers sandy loamy soils with a slightly acidic reaction, which are distinguished by good moisture capacity. The site for currants should be well lit, light openwork partial shade is allowed at noon. In the shade, the ovaries and flowers shrink, which negatively affects the fruits, which become small and not sugary. The place for the bush should not be blown by cold winds or drafts, as a young bole can easily break. Standard currant bushes feel great on the southeast side of the wall of a house or building, fence or hedge. During autumn and spring planting, they begin to prepare the site in advance, introducing peat or rotted manure along with digging. Prepare the site 14 days before the planned planting of seedlings.

Rules for planting stem currants

The algorithm for planting currants on a trunk differs from the activities for planting a shrub form and consists in the following actions:

• prepare landing pits of standard sizes 50×50 with a distance from each other of 30 – 50 cm;
• a drainage layer of broken brick, gravel or coarse sand is poured at the bottom;
• immediately drive in a strong support for the currant garter;
• pour a layer of fertile soil, consisting of humus, leaf compost and sand, with the addition of 2 cups of wood ash;
• the seedling is placed strictly vertically and fixed to the support;
• when planting, make sure that the roots are straightened;
• fill up the soil mixture, compact and water abundantly.

Watering and feeding

Standard currant is quite moisture-loving, therefore, when growing it, you should ensure that the soil of the near-stem circle does not dry out. Water the bushes should be plentiful 2 – 3 times a week, increasing the rate during drought. The depth of penetration of moisture should be at least 1 m deep. However, waterlogging should also not be allowed, otherwise the roots may rot. Proper development of currants is impossible without fertilization:

• in early spring, shrubs are fertilized with urea in the amount of 15 g per square meter;
• in the summer, mineral fertilizers are applied: 100 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium chloride, diluted in a bucket of water;
• mulching with a mixture of rotted manure and peat before the winter period also provides additional nutrition for the roots and their preparation for the winter period. Berry culture responds well to the introduction of wood ash, so it is advisable to scatter it in the late autumn into the soil of the near-stem circle in the amount of 1 – 2 tbsp. for one plant.

Caring for standard currants also comes down to the regular removal of weeds, loosening the soil of the trunk circle. Several times a season, it is mulched with mowed grass or compost.

How to form a standard currant

The formation of standard currant is carried out according to the following rules:

• on the purchased seedling, the strongest, strongest stem is chosen, growing at a right angle to the ground, the rest are removed under the root;
• determine the height of the trunk and cut out all the side branches up to this point;
• a currant sapling is wrapped with a black, light-transmitting film along the entire length of the trunk;
• pinch the top in the first year;
• in early spring the next year, pinch all lateral processes;
• the next 2 – 3 years perform the same actions until the stem of the desired shape has formed.

All work on the formation begins to be carried out in early spring, before the buds open on the plant. Most often, a currant stem is formed in a spherical or spherical shape. All broken, damaged and weak branches are annually removed in early spring, carrying out traditional sanitary pruning. In autumn, the apical shoots are also pinched, which will allow dormant buds to wake up and form new branches. Every 5 – 7 years, the standard currant needs rejuvenating pruning, which is performed in stages with the removal of 1 – 2 branches. Completely cut out a new root growth immediately when it appears – in summer or autumn.

Preparation for winter

Work on preparing the berry crop for winter comes down to mulching the near-trunk circle with rotted manure or peat and sheltering young seedlings with burlap, a special covering material that is tied with ropes for strong fixation. In regions with a mild climate and a lot of snow, bushes do not cover.

Video with useful tips on how to grow standard currants:

Diseases and pests

Like other shrubs, currants on stems are most often exposed to the following diseases and pests:

• fungal disease – anthracnose, characterized by the appearance of brown spots on the leaves;
• powdery mildew, in which young branches, berries, ovaries and leaves are covered with white bloom;
• white spotting;
• spider mite;
• flames.

Diseases and pests are controlled with the help of insecticides. Timely treatment will not allow them to severely damage the bushes and lead to their death. The main rule of prevention is the observance of the correct agricultural technology when planting and caring for standard currants. This is regular weeding from weeds, getting rid of old and weak branches, seasonal top dressing and preventing excessive waterlogging of the soil. It is worth saying that berry crops in standard form are less likely to be attacked by pests and fungal diseases, as they are better illuminated by the sun, thanks to the specific shape of the crown. Shrub forms are thicker, making them more attractive to pests and diseases.

Reproduction

Propagated standard currant cuttings. For this:

• in the middle of summer, in July, a strong, strong branch is chosen and a cutting is cut out, on which 5 buds should be located;
• plant it in fertile soil with the addition of sand, deepening in such a way that 1 kidney remains on the surface;
• in the summer they perform standard care – moistening the soil, removing weeds, careful loosening;
• in autumn, a young seedling is covered with fallen leaves;
• in the spring, all young basal shoots are removed, leaving only one shoot;
• at the beginning of summer, the young shoot is fed with nitrogen fertilizers, at the end of summer – with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers;
• do not forget to water the seedling regularly;
• the next year, the young shoot is cut to a length of 80 – 85 cm and 3 – 4 upper, well-developed buds are left, removing all the rest;
• in autumn, a new tree is planted in a permanent place, according to the above planting scheme.

Conclusion

Standard currant requires a creative approach, because thanks to its decorativeness, it can be used to create berry alleys from mini trees or designate certain areas in the garden. The main thing is to show imagination! Well, plus this will be a rich harvest of tasty, healthy berries that can be consumed both fresh and for processing.

Reviews of currants on the trunk