Skin sebum: what is it and how to reduce its production on the face

Sebum – what is it?

Sebum is a secret consisting of natural esters and fatty acids secreted by the sebaceous glands of the skin. Its main task is to maintain the integrity of the protective hydrolipid mantle of the epidermis. Simply put, sebum acts as the skin’s natural lubricant.

The most overactive sebaceous glands are in seborrheic areas: face, upper chest and back. On average, the sebaceous ducts of an adult produce up to 20 g of sebum per day. If, for some reason, the glands synthesize more fat than required, a characteristic oily sheen appears on the surface of the skin of the face.

Sebum functions

In addition to troubles in the form of signs of acne, which provokes excess sebum, the secret also has a number of important functions:

• Natural hydration of the skin, prevention of evaporation of moisture from the surface of the epidermis and prevention of dryness, dehydration and early aging of the skin.
• Protection against the negative effects of external factors, such as dust and ultraviolet radiation – sebum acts as a natural antioxidant.
• Antimicrobial protection against pathogenic microflora and maintenance of normal skin microbiome.
• Responsible for the pH balance of the skin.
• Participates in the thermoregulation system of the skin.

Composition of sebum

Sebum is made up of a mixture of different lipids and by its very nature cannot harm the skin. The composition of sebum depends on age, gender, lifestyle and genetic characteristics of the body – the hormonal background and the state of the central nervous system and ANS (central and autonomic nervous system). Normally, the secret contains the following components:

• triglycerides (41%);
• wax esters / wax esters (26%);
• squalene (12%);
• fatty acid;
• cholesterol;
• phospholipid;
• glycerin.

The main causes of impaired sebum production

Alexander Prokofiev, a dermatovenereologist, an expert of the La Roche-Posay brand, tells about the possible causes of impaired sebum synthesis.

When sebum production increases

• The peak activity of the sebaceous glands falls on the puberty of a person and can last up to 25 years. This is due to hormonal changes in the body. Increased production of sebum occurs against the background of pregnancy, certain diseases (endocrine system, liver disease, imbalance in the function of the gastrointestinal tract), as well as stress and lack of sleep, as a result of which the release of the stress hormone cortisol increases in the body.
• An unbalanced diet, consumption of fatty, salty, or smoked foods, lack of nutrients and fiber stimulate the production of sebum.
• Lack of or over-cleansing and overuse of alcohol-based products, as well as certain ingredients in skin care products, can all lead to clogged pores.
• Often people with signs of a problematic skin type try to cope with excessive oiliness on their own and overdo it with matting agents, which dries the skin. In response to dehydration, the epidermis reacts with the release of a natural moisturizer – sebum and the face shines even more.

When there is too little sebum

The lack of sebum is the other side of the coin, which in its own way aggravates the condition of the epidermis: dryness, a feeling of tightness, irritation, and peeling appear. Due to the deficiency of the lipid-containing secret, the protective mantle becomes thinner, the epidermis is exposed to increased susceptibility to external aggressors, and begins to intensively lose moisture, elasticity and density. Dry skin is the main reason for the manifestation of the first age-related changes in the skin: wrinkles, reduced turgor.

When the sebum is thick

A thick sebaceous secret is the cause of enlarged pores, comedones and blackheads. Sebum literally bursts the sebaceous ducts from the inside, forming a sebaceous plug and clogging the pores. Upon contact with oxygen and light, the secret acquires a characteristic black or dark gray color – this is how sebaceous filaments are formed – the well-known black dots.

Consequences of excess sebum secretion

In addition to the obvious consequences in the form of rashes, excessive production of sebum entails the following consequences:

• The skin of the face and body is shiny, looks unkempt, porous, gets dirty faster, the image loses its freshness. Some time after the last cleansing of the skin, the oily sheen appears again. Neglecting or, conversely, too keen on cleansing, owners of oily skin are at risk of experiencing signs of acne or dehydration of the skin.
• The scalp can also react to the increased production of sebum: signs of dandruff appear – oily seborrhea. Against the background of a change in the functioning of the sebaceous glands, too much fat is produced. At the same time, the skin of the scalp quickly becomes oily, undergoes inflammatory processes and flakes off.

Sebum control: how to remove excess sebum

To control excess sebum, home corrective care based on mattifying sebum-absorbing formulas will help. In the composition of cosmetics for oily problem skin, look for mattifying, moisturizing and regenerating components, hydro acids, hydro fixatives, amino acids and antioxidants.

Important: If, as a result of self-care, oily sheen and imperfections do not go away, consult a dermatologist. The specialist will prescribe tests, according to the results of which he will adjust your individual sebum removal system.

What should be the right care for oily skin to control sebum, says Alexander Prokofiev, dermatovenereologist, expert of the La Roche-Posay brand:

• Any beauty routine starts with regular cleansing. Oily skin requires special attention. Choose non-comedogenic formulas with a mattifying effect.
• Regularly exfoliate the stratum corneum – dead cells mix with sebum and clog pores. Use 1-2 times a week mild skin renewal products (scrubs, peels, gomajis) based on exfoliating ingredients, such as AHA-, LHA- and salicylic acids.
• An additional cleansing and matting effect is provided by products with different types of clays and their derivatives in the composition. For example, Masks absorb excess sebum well, attracting various impurities, thereby cleansing and ridding the skin of blackheads. Apply the mask 1-2 times a week, the next step after intensive cleansing.
• Finish skin cleansing with a mattifying lotion or toner. Opt for products that don’t dry out your skin. The lotion will also prepare the skin for the application of basic care.
• Basic corrective care should be aimed at additional regulation of skin oiliness, have protective, restorative properties and maintain skin hydration, preventing transepidermal moisture loss. As part of corrective care, pay attention to hygroscopic components, such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid.
• Use sunscreen – UVA and UVB rays break the protective barrier of the epidermis, provoke active production of sebum and discomfort.

TOP 6 La Roche-Posay products to reduce facial fat

Purification

With the task of delicate cleansing of oily skin without water, micellar water Ultra of the Effaclar range will cope. Micelles instantly absorb sebum, make-up residues and remove external impurities. The combination of glycerin and a zinc derivative mattifies and protects the skin from dehydration at the same time.

For washing, the cleansing foaming gel for oily skin, the Effaclar range, is suitable. Gently cleanses the skin without leaving a feeling of dryness. For overdried, oily skin, choose Effaclar H Cleansing Cream-Gel. It restores comfort to the skin, visibly softens, restores, and soothes.

The second step of cleansing oily skin is followed by toning – Effaclar Pore Reduction Lotion provides a feeling of clean, fresh and matte skin. Visibly reduces and further refines pores.

Use the Effaclar Mattifying Mask regularly (1-2 times a week) as an effective pore cleansing and oil control.

Basic care that combines moisturizing + matting:

Effaclar sebum-regulating emulsion contains the Sebulyse component, which mattifies the skin and tightens pores. The product intensively moisturizes and minimizes the oily sheen of the face.

Effaclar K(+) oily skin emulsion, according to instrumental tests with 24 respondents, controls oiliness and corrects imperfections of oily skin type for up to 8 hours. Contains Antioxidants in the composition, the formula prevents the oxidation of sebum and reduces the number of blackheads.