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They are one of the brightest jewels of the gastronomy Spanish. Passion and inspiration of wine lovers, but also of letters and the arts. Pleasure for the palate and lifestyle.
Today Summum we talk about sherry wines. What they are, what they are and how they are enjoyed. From the ideal tasting temperature to the perfect pairing, passing through the most expensive and exquisite delicatessen on the market.
Exclusive by nature
Sherry wines are wines that are born in “limited edition”. Only wines that come out of Jerez can boast of this name –or rather these names: Jerez-Xérès-Sherry and Manzanilla Sanlúcar de Barrameda–. A piece of land, sun and sea delimited by the cities of Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa María.
Furthermore, the aging of these wines –The system of criaderas and solera responsible for its peculiarity– must be carried out exclusively in these three cities (in the case of La Manzanilla, in Sanlúcar de Barrameda). The Regulatory Council of this Denomination of Origin It is the oldest in Spain and exercises very strict control not only over where these wines are produced, but also over how.
From the cultivation practices of each vineyard, the grape varieties, the pruning, the harvest and the aging process, just to name a few aspects. As true jewels that they are, sherry wines They are protected by the most sophisticated alarm systems.
Edible flower
The flower veil is the layer of yeast that develops on the surface of sherry wines when they come into contact with air (something possible because the barrels are only partially filled) and that at the same time protects them from oxidation. It is, in other words, responsible for its characteristic flavor, but it has no flavor. Or until now no one had cared whether he had it or not.
Nobody except Andoni Luis Aduriz, without a doubt one of the most creative and courageous chefs in this country. In the kitchen of Mugaritz, a restaurant with 2 Michelin stars, the Basque chef has managed to turn the flower into a dish, the Brioche de Aceituna y Flor de Jerez. Several attempts and a close collaboration between Jerez and Renteria, where the restaurant is located, have been necessary to find the magic formula capable of turning the intangible secret of Sherry wines into a mouthful of haute cuisine.
From “m” from Manzanilla to “p” from Pedro Ximénez
If Jerez wines were the key of a piano and we wanted to start with those that emit a softer “sound”, the choice would fall on Chamomile, the driest, softest, with floral and slightly salty notes.
In the next key, we would find el Fino, which comes exclusively from the Palomino grape variety and has a more golden color and almond tones. They both grow old under the veil of flower. The Amontillado It is a wine that begins by aging as a Fino and then it is topped, losing the veil of flower and receiving more oxidation. It has a more amber color, more body and begins to develop the characteristic notes of nuts. The Oloroso it does not develop the veil of flower, it is a wine that undergoes a process of further oxidation and aging. It is even darker and with more body and aroma. Full-bodied, but with a fresher scent, the Cut stick it is one of the most sought-after sherry wines. The Cream is obtained from the mixture between a dry odorous and a Pedro XiménezHence, it is also known as an odorous sweet, with notes of caramel and nougat. Pedro Ximenez is obtained from the grapes that bear the same name and stands out for its sweetness and its complex aroma of chocolate, raisins, figs and dried fruits.
A jewel among jewels
Verses 1891 It is the most exclusive wine from the Barbadillo wineries. It is an Amontillado from a barrel that in 1891 Antonio Barbadillo dedicated to his son Manuel, poet of the generation of 27 and president of the Bodegas Barbadillo for several decades of the last century.
It is a wine from ‘very limited’ edition (up to a maximum of one hundred units), which is bottled only on request and is encased in an Atlantis crystal suit, one of the purest in the world, with gold and platinum details. In addition, it has a electronic tag that allows to identify if the bottle has been opened only by bringing the mobile closer and a special technology that allows to certify the authenticity of the product. So far 33 units have been sold. The price: 10.000 euros each bottle.
A luxury visit to some luxury wineries
those of Uncle Pepe They can well boast of being one of the most traditional wineries in this country, since they have more than 180 years travel. A compelling reason to make them the ideal destination for any pilgrimage in search of the best sherry and its history.
There are several formats under which it is possible to visit the wineries. The most exclusive It includes the possibility of tasting the most sought-after wines of the brand in unique places, such as the Historical Archive or the Patio de Lepanto. The visit culminates in a tapas and wine tasting or in a lunch paired with the best sherry wines. Prices They vary from 110 to 125 euros per person.
Use Instructions
Cada sherry wine comes with its own instruction manual. The Chamomile It is served very cold (between 6º and 8º) in the typical “caña”, a narrow crystal glass, with a thick base and a slightly conical shape. Cold soups and especially fish-based dishes are the perfect complement.
Al Fino Seafood and cold cuts are good for it, and it is also served very cold. The Amontillado It is served at a temperature between 12º and 14º and brilliantly solves impossible pairings such as asparagus or artichokes. The Oloroso, which is also served fresh, pairs well with some aged cheeses and meat stews. The Cream it is served cold and is perfect to close a gastronomic evening, with a dessert, fruit or blue cheeses.
Another, more classic option is the Pedro Ximénez. With chocolate, nuts or a good blue cheese.
Vermouth: the fashionable drink in “Jerez version”
Wormwood It is what the Germans call absinthe, the main ingredient in those first vermouths that were made in Italy back in the seventeenth century and whose name was an adaptation of German. Lifestyle more than just drink, the vermouth it stars in one of the most stable gastronomic trends in recent years.
Companies that wineries Lustau, founded in 1896 and with a few awards to brag about, they market two vermouths made from Jerez wines. Quite a peculiarity if we consider that the base of vermouth is usually neutral wines.
El target It has a base of Fino and Muscatel, flavored with a bouquet of rosemary, chamomile, marjoram and gentian. The Red It has a base of Amontillado and Pedro Ximénez with coriander seeds, sage, lemon rind, gentian and absinthe. The 125 ml bottles They can be purchased in specialized stores or in the online store of Vila Viniteca for 13,50 euros.
Vodka out of the sea
A Norse legend tells that a unicorn with a golden horn, to flee from the men who hunted it, plunged into the deep sea. Of those that came out again under the countenance of a narwhal. This legend is inspired abyssal, the only vodka on the market made from a sherry wine. Specific, an Oloroso subjected to triple distillation at 74º to achieve the highest possible purity.
This delicatessen, which is sold in a glass bottle reminiscent of a black pearl, is the fruit of three years of research by the wineries. Williams&Humbert and it can be purchased in gourmet stores for a price that is around 48 euros.
An eco and designer vinegar
The endless aromatic and taste notes that Jerez wines are capable of squandering make them a pleasure that we never tire of. We would even eat them in the salad and with the meat! In fact, we can.
Organic balsamic with sherry vinegar The Organic It is the result of the collaboration between the legendary French designer Philippe Starck and the winemaker Michel Rolland. The 125 ml bottle of this delicatessen is close to 9 euros.
The most exclusive Jerez in Aponiente
It is located in an old tidal mill and is probably the world’s largest showcase of the infinite wealth of the sea. Aponiente, the restaurant led by the chef Ángel León what this year looks like 3 Michelin stars, accompanies its extraordinary gastronomic proposal with sherry wines.
During the season, 90% of the pairings that accompany each of the tasting menus are made up of these treasures. Juan Ruiz-Henestrosa, sommelier and room manager, is in charge of selecting the perfect sherry for each dish. Since ever, Aponiente He has worked with iconic wineries, but in the last year he has gone one step further, adding to his winery wines made exclusively by small producers and wineries from Marco de Jerez. A real luxury.