Those who watched the series “Boardwalk Empire” will certainly remember the shy FBI agent from Norway, Nelson Van Alden. In his life, he was unlucky even at some point, and the story tells of the dashing 20s, when Prohibition gave rise to Al Capone and other bootleggers known in certain circles, he remembered his homeland, the drink that they taught his ancestors cook. In those troubled times, when mixology was born and great people did great things, it was difficult with alcohol in the USA. The Scandinavian “living water” fit into this environment in the most successful way.
“Water of life” in Latin, Scandinavians call a strong alcoholic drink aquavit (aqua vitae). The alcohol mixture is obtained from potatoes and grains, and then insisted on spices, herbs and roots: dill seeds, cinnamon, cumin, St. John’s wort, ginger, orange, fennel and anise. Each brand has its own secret ingredients. Biters, bitter tinctures, are prepared on the basis of aquavit, but more on that some other time.
The usual aquavit has a strength of 40%, but there are counterparts and stronger (up to 50%). From variations of the components, aging and purification conditions, the drink takes on a color from transparent to yellowish brown. The main world supplier of aquavit is Denmark, but this drink is produced throughout Scandinavia. Despite the differences in the resulting drink, all producers are united by a common history, or rather, the contribution of the three “fathers” of the Danish aquavit, who brought their own characteristics to its production.
The story of the three “fathers” of aquavit
The Pole Isidor Henius, at the age of thirteen, gained experience at a small distillery. He was so bright that five years later, in 1838, he went to Denmark as a qualified specialist. Neither more nor less, Isidor modernized distilleries throughout the country and soon settled in Aalborg. Henius was well versed in all stages of production, but he paid special attention to the cleaning process and the removal of fusel oils.
At the age of 26, he founded the “Aalborg Privileged Syrup and Alcohol Factory”, and in January 1846 began production of the famous Aalberg Taffel Akvavit – a transparent, strong caraway akvavit, which immediately became popular in Denmark. More than a century and a half passed, and in 2002 this akvavit was back in business: at the IWSC (International Wine and Spirits Competition) Aalberg Taffel Akvavit was recognized as the best among competitors.
The second pioneer in the formation of the “culture” of Danish aquavit was the Brandum family. Anton Brandum was destined to continue the work of his father Kristen, who published a detailed guide to the distillation of aquavit. Kristen taught the craft of distillation to interested parties in the Copenhagen experimental laboratory. And at his factory, he prepared less strong and “odorous” aquavits, trying to introduce new shades of taste. He passed on his life’s work to his son. In 1830, Anton Brandum became a member of the “Copenhagen Guild of Alcoholic Producers of Aquavit”. He successfully managed his father’s factory, and ten years later he opened his own enterprise and produced Brøndum Kummen Aquavit, which is considered to this day the oldest Danish aquavit.
The third old-timer of the aquavit, Harald Jensen (1837-1914), studied to be an artist, but succumbing to family ties, like Anton Brandum, took over his father’s distillery. Since 1863, he launched the production of Harald Jensen Akvavit, which can still be found on sale. Harald was an artist. Perhaps that is why he decided on a novelty in the taste of aquavit: aniseed, ginger, cloves and orange began to be used in his recipe.
And in August 1881, the Danish Distillers company appeared in Denmark, which began to buy up and enlarge small factories. Then there were about 2,5 thousand of them. In particular, the same Isidor Henius in 1883 acquired the factory of Harald Jensen, and ten years later – the factory of Anton Brandum. By 1923, all distilleries in Denmark were owned by Danish Distillers. Thus, the consolidation of factories allowed Denmark to export Aquavit with Aquavit, and on the other hand, to strictly control the circulation and quality of the drinks produced. In addition, the Danes did not allow the “aquavit fever” to manifest itself, as it did in England with their gin boom.
Decades have passed. Aalborg Akvavit brand is now widely represented on the world market. And among a dozen types of this drink, the Danes especially love “dill” and “jubilee” aquavits. Having cooled well, the Danes especially recommend drinking aquavit with seafood dishes.
“Grandpa, sell me alive …”
In the middle of the last century, all pensioners in Denmark were entitled to two glasses of aquavit absolutely free of charge – to improve heart function, so to speak. But the grandparents quickly realized what was happening and saw the commercial potential in it. They began to sell their rations to young people who needed to improve their health more often. Of course, the old people were taken to clean water and they did not see the “living water” anymore. However, in the minds of the Danes, aquavit has become entrenched as a healing drink – in their opinion, it improves digestion and helps digest fatty foods. In Sweden, the drink is served with fatty smoked fish, and in Denmark, black backbone canapés with butter, a slice of fatty herring and an onion feather are prepared.
The Scandinavians also produce linen-aquavit, a kind of aquavit-traveler. In 1907, the Brudersen family sent their drink in oak barrels to Australia, and upon arrival it turned out that it had acquired the same qualities as noble cognac. Since then, linea aquavit has been sent on ships across the equator before bottling, and then taken back. In swimming, the drink acquires the aromas of oak barrels, becomes softer and richer in taste. At home, making aquavit is not a problem.
For this we need:
- 750 ml of vodka or alcohol diluted to 40%;
- 2 tsp of cumin seeds;
- 2 teaspoons of fennel seeds;
- 2 boxes of chopped cardamom;
- 2 pcs. carnations;
- 2 teaspoons of anise;
- 1 cinnamon stick or equivalent in crushed bark
- dried zest of 1 lemon;
- dried zest of 1 orange;
- 1-1,5 st. spoons of sugar.
Prepare Scandinavian vodka as follows:
- First, fry all the spices in a dry hot frying pan for 3 minutes (just be careful not to burn).
- Pour the toasted spices into a 1 liter glass jar and fill everything with vodka.
- Shake the contents well and leave the jar in a dark place for 2 weeks, shake the contents regularly several times a day.
- After 2 weeks, try the drink, and if it doesn’t seem strong enough or strong enough for you, leave it for another couple of days.
- Ready aquavit filter and use chilled before meals, especially fatty dishes.
The recipe is somewhat similar to homemade Becherovka. It is best to store the drink in oak barrels, but if there are none at hand, then ordinary glass bottles will do. The longer the aquavit is left to infuse, the tastier it becomes – the Danes can withstand it for a whole year. Such is it, “living water” from Scandinavia. Drink to your health and remember that excessive consumption threatens … In general, the Ministry of Health warned.