Rose Lady of Shallot: description, characteristics and care

Place for planting

Rose variety Lady of Shalott is characterized by rapid growth and abundant long flowering. In one season, a small seedling is able to turn into a luxurious lush bush up to 1-1,2 meters high and in the same year please with the first buds. But in order to achieve this, you need to choose the right place to land.

For an English rose, the place of growth is crucial, and this applies not only to the territory itself, but also to neighboring plants. Given that the width of the crown of an adult bush is approximately 1 m, then when planting, you need to make sure that other shrubs do not grow within a radius of 1-1,5 m from it, and tall trees within a radius of 2-2,5 m. It is necessary to protect the bush from the neighborhood with large plants so that they do not take the nutrients intended for the rose from the soil.

With regard to soil, the rose is not very demanding. She does not like only heavy clay soil, sandy, and also with high acidity. The soil with a high sand content quickly heats up and dries up, and in clayey and acidic soil the root system withers, attention should also be paid to this composition of the soil. The best soil for Lady of Shalott roses is loose loam with a good fertile layer in the form of humus. If your soil is not fertile enough, you can improve its quality with compost, humus, or other organic matter, which is usually placed in the hole when planting.

The landing site should be sunny, but without wind and drafts. It is great if the bush is intensively illuminated for 6 hours, and the rest of the day is in partial shade. Planting in a lowland or in areas with close groundwater should be avoided, as excessive moisture is harmful to roses. It is better to plant a shrub on a slight elevation, it is also possible on a slope.

Video “Description”

From the video you will learn a lot of interesting things about this type of roses.

Landing

Seedlings purchased in containers are transplanted along with a clod of earth, trying to deepen the grafting site by 6-7 cm into the soil. Plants with an open root system need root soaking, because even a recently dug seedling has dried roots. It is recommended to dig planting holes for roses in advance – 1-2 weeks in advance, then by the time of planting the earth will have time to settle.

The most suitable time for planting is autumn (September – early October), so that 1-1,5 months remain before the onset of the first frost. During this time, the seedling will have time to take root.

It is also possible to plant in the spring, but in this case, the soil for the rose should be prepared in the fall: dig up and apply organic fertilizers. Some flower growers advise dipping the roots of a rose in a mash consisting of clay, manure and water in a ratio of 3:3:10 before planting.

The landing itself is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• a hole is dug 40×40 cm in size and 30-50 cm deep (depending on the length of the root system);
• a layer of compost, a little superphosphate, ash is laid at the bottom of the pit;
• a thin layer of soil is poured over the fertilizers – this is necessary so that the roots do not come into contact with fertilizers;
• 0,5 buckets of water are poured into the pit;
• the seedling is placed in the middle of the pit, the roots are straightened;
• then the bush is manually sprinkled with earth, periodically compacting it;
• in the end, it is abundantly watered and spud with dry earth – hilling accelerates the survival of the seedling, as it contributes to the formation of additional roots.

Care

English roses are quite demanding to care for, and some events have their own characteristics. For example, watering should be timely and moderate, since the rose does not tolerate waterlogging, or, conversely, drought. Therefore, it is necessary to constantly monitor the level of humidity and maintain it.

The Lady of Shalott rose requires regular fertilizing to bloom profusely. During the season, it is fed at least 3 times: before flowering with a mineral mixture with nitrogen, during flowering – with organic matter and special preparations for roses, before wintering – with phosphorus and potassium. From organic matter, the rose loves compost and liquid manure, as well as mulching with peat.

In spring and autumn, the bushes need to be cut. Despite the high winter hardiness of the variety, it is better to cover the roots of the rose with organic mulch for the winter, and if the winters are not snowy, then in addition to mulch, you should also use a denser shelter (film, any non-woven material).

Reproduction

For this variety, as for all English Austin roses, only vegetative propagation methods are acceptable: layering, cuttings, dividing the bush. The seedlings that are offered in nurseries are, as a rule, specimens grafted onto a stock.

Very often, grafted bushes run wild (form wild shoots), so it is better to grow own-rooted roses in one of the following ways:

1. Layering. The method is suitable for propagating any roses, especially climbing ones. In spring or early summer, you need to choose a strong one-year-old shoot, make cuts on the bark at the locations of the buds, then bend it to the ground and dig it in or cover it with fertile soil. The future seedling is periodically watered. By autumn, the shoot will take root, and next spring it can be separated and transplanted to a permanent place.
2. The division of the bush. A rather troublesome method, therefore it is more often used for miniature shrubs, but if desired, any roses can be planted this way. To separate the bush, you should dig it out in early spring, before bud break, divide it into 2-3 parts (no longer desirable), and then transplant it to the right place. In the first year, you should break off the buds so that the bush can quickly increase the green mass.
3. Cuttings. The most common and affordable method of propagation, since shoots after pruning can be used as cuttings. You should know that green cuttings take root faster, however, old (stiff) ones are also suitable for propagation. Cuttings are cut in the summer immediately after flowering. Each cutting must contain at least 3 buds. The lower cut is made at an angle below the kidney, the lower one can be straight and cut above the kidney. Such blanks are buried in a moist substrate, and after about a month, when they take root, you can start transplanting.

There is another way of reproduction, but it is applicable only for roses that form basal shoots (offspring). Shoots are formed from adventitious root buds, and very quickly form their own root system. After some time, they can be carefully separated from the mother bush and transplanted. This method is the most convenient, since it does not require any labor on the part of the grower.

Video “Cutting Rules”

From the video you will learn how to properly trim the bushes.