Retinol or vitamin A is considered to be one of the best anti-aging active ingredients used in our time. But it requires precautions of use, in particular to avoid addiction and overdose.

According to Cosing, (the list of cosmetics of the European Commission), retinol is a skin care agent. It belongs to the retinoid family.

Vitamin A exists in 3 forms:

• retinol;
• the retinal
• retinoic acid.

It acts both on the surface and in depth and it outperforms most approved products with the same action. It is a powerful anti-aging active recognized:

• It activates cell renewal like no other (up to six times the normal rate). Reminder: the epidermis loses a million cells per day;
• It stimulates the production of collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, molecules forming the support tissue of the skin and essential for its suppleness, elasticity and firmness;
• It helps maintain the thickness of the dermis.

It is a hydrophobic molecule (which is not wetted by water), sensitive to air and light, hence the infinite packaging precautions (opaque bottles, under vacuum, sometimes in single pods) .

Note, the ingredient corresponding to the name retinol in the INCI list (international list of cosmetics and their ingredients) corresponds to pure retinol. There is a derivative, retinyl palmitate (an ester of retinol), less expensive, less sensitizing, also very widespread.

Retinol was first used in the 90s by dermatologists and general practitioners against acne. It does not directly attack the bacteria responsible for inflammation, but its exfoliating action rids the skin of dead cells, unclogs clogged pores, and reduces acne scars.

Then, he made a sensational entry into the world of anti-aging medicine:

• it fights against free radicals caused by UV rays, tobacco, pollution, etc., responsible for skin aging and the degradation of the epidermis;
• it has a keratolytic action (refines the skin texture on the surface, improves the complexion and texture of the epidermis, tightens the pores);
• it regulates the synthesis of melanin and can thus act upstream on the formation of spots or even attenuate them when they exist;
• it treats oily, acne-prone skin (by acting on the production of sebum, by reducing inflammation of the sebaceous glands, by clearing clogged pores).

Some sites recommend using it as soon as possible. It is true that we age from birth. By pushing the plug, we could even imagine going from its curative application during acne period to its preventive application … without pause.

More seriously, the results of the application of retinol are visible in 3 or 4 weeks depending on some in 5 to 8 weeks depending on others. The skin regains its elasticity, and fine lines and wrinkles are visibly reduced. Hence, the inevitable temptation to multiply the coatings in quantity or number during the week. What should be avoided.

It is better to apply it (in the form of a serum or a cream) in the evening, two or three times a week at the start of “treatment”, then every day if necessary.

Retinol is used in the formulation of night creams, eye contours, serums, peels with anti-aging, radiance and anti-blemish actions. These products can be suitable for all skin types, although sensitive skin is generally advised to turn to lighter formulas.

The recommended concentration is 0,01%, a sufficient and necessary dose to obtain the expected improvement. Too much frequency of its application or an excessive amount of retinol, especially on sensitive skin, can lead to redness, dryness or even swelling of the skin.

In the event of morning application, exposure to the sun can be harmful because the skin stripped of its portal cells is more sensitive and more reactive, particularly to the rays of the sun.

Retinol seems to be the panacea for anti aging of the skin. The one that will come to the aid of that of the brain is still being studied.