Contents
We tell you what retinoic peeling is, what is its uniqueness, why it is called yellow and why it is loved by those who are not eighteen years old.
What is retinoic peeling
Composition and mechanism of action
The main component is retinoic acid. It stimulates the growth and proliferation of keratinocytes, accelerates cell renewal. She also paints the product in yellow. To make it easier to understand how retinoids work with skin cells, let’s compare them with their main competitors – fruit acids, such as glycolic acid. Its goal is to damage the stratum corneum of the skin, due to which the old cells are exfoliated and replaced with new ones. Retinoids act differently: they do not destroy anything, moreover, they do not work directly with either the cells of the stratum corneum or with intercellular structures.
Retinoic peeling is a yellow mask.
The target of retinoids is not the surface of the epidermis, but the deeper basal layer in which cells originate. Being small lipophilic molecules, retinoids reach their destination quite easily and accelerate the division of keratinocytes many times over, in other words, the formation of new cells. Young keratinocytes en masse begin to move up to the surface of the skin, and literally push out the overlying layers. Hence the effect of exfoliation and renewal.
Retinoic peeling does not destroy dead structures, but stimulates living ones by binding to cell nuclei through special receptors. Moreover, retinoic acid interacts not only with keratinocytes, but also with fibroblasts and melanocytes, improving skin condition in several ways, including density, elasticity and pigmentation uniformity.
In addition to retinoic acid itself, the composition of the peeling preparation includes auxiliary components, mainly acids, that can enhance one or another cosmetic effect. For example:
whitening: fetinic, kojic, azeloic acids;
exfoliation: salicylic acid;
fighting free radicals: vitamin C;
calming and anti-stress effect: allantoin, aloe and chamomile extracts.
Indications for use: to whom and when it will come in handy
The abilities of retinoic peeling are multifaceted. In addition to the standard indications for peels, including dullness, increased greasiness, uneven surface, retinoic acid works with age-related skin changes, such as:
wrinkles;
dark spots;
photoaging;
reduced turgor;
thickening of the stratum corneum.
Therefore, the bulk of fans of retinoic peeling are women who have crossed the forty-year milestone.
Skin with acne (not in the stage of inflammation!) and post-acne phenomena also responds well to the effects of retinoids.
Efficiency
Like any peeling, retinoic peeling is done in a course. Although the result in the form of fresh, renewed, radiant, smooth skin can be seen after the first session. The final effect depends on the number of procedures, the concentration of the chemical agent, the scheme of peeling application. As a result, you can achieve:
smoothing superficial wrinkles and reducing deep ones;
lightening or complete disappearance of age spots;
smoothing the texture and tone of the skin;
skin tightening and light lifting.
How often can you do
Types of retinoic peeling for the face
Among cosmetologists and patients, retinoic peeling is known as “yellow peeling” (Yellow Peel). The fact is that retinoic acid, like all synthetic analogues of vitamin A, has a bright yellow or orange color – hence the name.
The composition of peeling and the concentration of the main substance vary depending on the specific preparation and manufacturer. Typically professional Yellow Peel contains 5-10% retinoic acid.
Retinoic acid gives the peeling its yellow color.
As for the usual classification of peels (superficial, medium, deep), in the case of retinoids, it is very arbitrary. Strictly speaking, retinoic peeling cannot be superficial, as it works only in the deep basal layer of the epidermis. However, with Yellow Peel you can achieve:
light exfoliation;
medium and medium-deep peeling, renewing all layers of the epidermis.
There is a kind of retinoic peeling, which works only on tightening the skin turgor and does not cause peeling at all.
How is peeling done
Prepare
Two weeks before the “yellow peel”, start using home care products with acids. This will help your skin clear the way for retinoids to penetrate into the deeper layers. Usually a beautician recommends special cosmetics. We give examples of products that meet the requirements of pre-peel preparation.
Two-stage peeling lotion Re-Plasty Power A + HA consists of two parts. The first phase includes a gel with hyaluronic acid of three types. The second is a cream with retinol. The combination of these products provides exfoliation and skin renewal.
Serum against imperfections and signs of aging Blemish & Age, SkinCeuticals suitable for preparing the skin for salon peeling. Contains Glycolic, Salicylic & Capryloyl Salicylic Acids for gradual, gentle exfoliation.
Ampoules “Revitalift Laser x3”, L’Oréal Paris contain serum with 10% concentration of glycolic acid, each ampoule is designed for one application at the end of the day. In the morning, apply a product with SPF on your face.
Procedure
Before applying the yellow peel, the skin is cleansed and treated with an acid-based lotion to loosen the stratum corneum and facilitate the penetration of retinoic acid.
Peeling itself is a yellow cream mask, which is applied in a thin layer on the entire face (including the skin around the eyes) or on separate areas with rubbing movements. At this, the mandatory stages of the protocol end – further options are possible.
Peeling can endure on the face 15-20 minutesand then rinse with a neutral pH solution.
Attention! re (and repeated) application and rinsing of a retinoic peel in one session.
Another option: leave the mask for six o’clock, and then the “yellow-faced” patient goes home and washes off the composition on his own.
The procedure is painless, the maximum discomfort is a slight tingling and a feeling of warmth.
Retinoic peeling solves the problems of aging and young skin.
How to take care of your skin after a retinoic peel
The rehabilitation period after the procedure with a median effect (that is, causing active peeling and renewal of the skin) takes an average of a week.
Feeling of tightness occurs on the 2nd day.
Peeling begins on the 4th day after peeling.
Please note: superficial peeling does not cause discomfort and violent peeling, but the effect of such peeling is less expressive.
In the post-peeling period, you will need cosmetics that meet special requirements. The main one is the complete absence of acids in the composition.
Rules for skin care after peeling
Washing with gel-like products that do not contain aggressive surfactants and oils. Our recommendation is cleaning micellar gel for the skin of the face and eyelids Rosaliac Gel, La Roche-Posay, which contains hyaluronic acid in the composition, provides comfort and freshness when washing.
Care, including products with the function of protecting and restoring the skin barrier. They need to be applied several times a day for 3-5 days after peeling.
Mandatory sun protection with maximum SPF.
Recommend restorative sedative La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Balm SPF 50 with madecassoside for better skin regeneration and panthenol for a soothing effect and restoration of the protective mantle. Sunscreen and Prokerad component prevent post-peeling pigmentation.
A beneficial effect on the skin will also have a sterile Skinceuticals Bio Cellulose Soothing Mask, specially designed for use after peeling and laser procedures.
Safety measures
Yellow peeling reduces the immunity of the skin, so it becomes susceptible to infections. Often as a side effect there is an exacerbation of herpes. Usually, cosmetologists prescribe special preparations before peeling to prevent this reaction.
Retinoids in high concentrations cause large-lamellar peeling. Plus, the manifestation of retinoic dermatitis in certain areas of the skin is considered normal, which manifests itself:
redness;
burning sensation;
hypersensitivity;
mild swelling.
Usually these troubles go away on their own after the rehabilitation period.
Tips and reviews of cosmetologists
medical expert Vichy Ekaterina Turubara believes: “Retinoic peeling is a safe and effective procedure.” Below we list its main advantages.
- Retinoic peeling is optimal not only for general renewal and rejuvenation of the skin, but also for targeted correction of hyperpigmentation.
Considered less traumatic.
It is carried out in a shorter course, on average 4-5 procedures are enough.
This procedure is contraindicated during pregnancy and lactation; with liver diseases; in the season of active ultraviolet radiation (and in the case of a tan that has already manifested). Contraindications also include damage to the epidermis (due to dermatological diseases or as a result of the banal squeezing of acne).