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Increasingly, one can see wonderful gardens of low-growing apple trees, densely dotted with appetizing fruits. They occupy a small area, and caring for them is not very difficult. You just need to know when to water and fertilize and how to prune a dwarf apple tree in the fall.
Dwarf apple trees form a crown similar to a regular branching structure, but they need regular pruning. Without it, dwarf trees will not produce high yields. The period of their fruiting will also be reduced.
Need to trim
Regular pruning of dwarf apple trees is necessary for the correct balance between the root system and the crown. Without it, the tree will eventually completely cease to bear fruit, since the root system will not be able to provide nutrition to the overgrown tree. However, you should not prune the apple tree too much – in this case, the roots will receive less nutrients from the foliage.
Pruning frees the fruit tree from old, diseased or damaged branches. It also avoids thickening of the crown.
With the help of pruning, a structure of skeletal branches is formed, providing sufficient rarefaction of the crown. Therefore, gardeners attach great importance to it. Crown formation options differ in the distance that is maintained between the skeletal branches.
In the very first year after planting seedlings of a dwarf apple tree, pruning should ensure its survival in a new place. In the future, it helps to maintain high yields, adjusts for the subsequent development and fruiting of the tree.
Sometimes the purpose of pruning is to rejuvenate a dwarf apple tree. For old or diseased trees, this method is used to save them.
Basic terms
To understand the process of pruning dwarf apple trees, a novice gardener should familiarize himself with the existing terminology:
- a shoot that has grown within a year is called an annual;
- branches growing from the trunk are considered branches of the first order, shoots growing from them – branches of the second order;
- the leader is the shoot, which is a continuation of the trunk;
- twigs sprouted during the summer – growth;
- fruit-bearing branches on which the crop is formed are called overgrowing;
- next to the growth of the central shoot, a lateral one can grow, it was called a competitor;
- flowers form from flower buds, and shoots develop from growth buds.
Trimming rules
There are several basic rules for autumn pruning of dwarf apple trees:
- it should be carried out after the end of leaf fall, when the tree is already at rest – during this period it will be easier to cope with the stress associated with pruning shoots;
- pruning should be done before the onset of frost, so that all sections have time to heal, otherwise they will freeze and the tree will weaken;
- winter pruning is unacceptable, because the tree is in hibernation and is not able to heal the cuts;
- already in the first two years, it is necessary to adjust the location of the skeletal branches so that the more powerful branches are lower than the weak ones – this technique contributes to a more even development of the branches;
- it is recommended to cut large branches first to see how much the thickening of the crown has changed – this rule protects the dwarf apple tree from unnecessary pruning;
- after pruning, stumps should not remain, as they provoke further decay and the formation of a hollow on the trunk.
Tool
In order for the work done on pruning apple trees in the fall to be of high quality, you need to prepare a set of tools with sharpened blades. They must be selected depending on the thickness and location of the branches:
- pruner with long handles is used when removing thick or hard-to-reach branches;
- for some shoots it is more convenient to use a garden knife with a curved blade;
- special care is required when handling garden saws, in which the blades are sharpened on both sides;
- small shoots are sometimes easier to remove with a saw with a curved blade;
- thin shoots are easily cut with garden shears;
- all cuts should be smooth and clean, if they turn out to be uneven and shaggy, then healing will take longer, during which fungi can start;
- if the branch is cut with a saw, you must first make a cut, otherwise the branch may break off;
- uneven cuts need to be cleaned with a knife to smoothness.
Types of trimming
For young dwarf trees, light pruning is carried out to strengthen the branches. They are shortened by a quarter of the annual growth. From the cut in the spring, new shoots will sprout, forming the desired crown.
With medium pruning, apple tree branches are removed by a third, which also contributes to the formation of new shoots. At the same time, the correct crown is formed. This type of pruning is suitable for both 5-7 year old and old trees.
Strong pruning of dwarf apple trees is used when the growth and development of the tree stops, fruiting decreases. With heavy pruning, fruit-bearing branches are partially removed in order to ensure sufficient rarefaction of the crown and access of air and sunlight to apples. Branches are cut in half.
General scheme of the procedure
Autumn pruning of a dwarf apple tree includes the following manipulations:
- the first to be removed are thick branches that have cracked under the weight of apples or have received other damage – they will freeze anyway in winter;
- at the next stage, pruning should touch the numerous shoots that thicken the crown – only the strongest can be left of them;
- among the annual growth there are many shoots growing at the wrong angle – it is better to remove them immediately, as they will easily break from a gust of wind or when snow sticks;
- slices must be immediately disinfected – you can lubricate with garden pitch;
- it must be applied in a thin layer, otherwise it will dry out and fall off, exposing the wound;
- other damaged areas of the stem should also be treated with garden pitch;
- cuttings of branches must be collected and burned immediately – they should not be left under a tree so as not to attract pests.
Features of pruning young trees
The first pruning of a dwarf apple tree after planting is essential to encourage further fruiting. It must be carried out immediately after planting the seedling, in early spring, when the buds have not yet woken up. To relieve the stress received after transplantation, and speedy rooting, the seedling needs more nutrition. Pruning just stimulates it to develop quickly and prevents it from wasting energy on the growth of extra shoots.
In the first year, the main shoot of a dwarf apple tree is shortened to a height of 0,3-0,5 m. The next year, when the side shoots sprout, pruning is done depending on the chosen crown shape. For a more lush crown, branches should be left that are directed outward, and the upper buds should be removed.
If it is planned to form a longline crown, then in the second year the upper side shoot is cut to 0,3 m from its base, and the rest to its level. After pruning, the central shoot of the apple tree should be 0,3 m higher than the others. There are 4 strongest side shoots left.
If it is planned to form a non-tiered crown, then the largest side shoot should be cut 0,2-0,25 m from the base, and on the central one, two more main shoots can be grown with a distance of up to 0,3 m between them.
The main skeletal branches should grow from each other no closer than at a distance of 0,5 m. They must be formed in such a way that the skeletal branches do not have the same directions, do not interfere with each other, but grow in a free zone.
In dwarf apple trees, in the second year, the growth of the central shoot with any type of crown is shortened by a third, and new skeletal branches by half.
The next year, the growth of skeletal branches is cut off, leaving from 35 to 45 cm from the beginning of growth, depending on the ability of the shoot to branch. This pruning persists for several years. Starting from the third year, it is also necessary to thin out the crown and shorten the length of last year’s shoots to 25 cm.
Subsequent pruning
When a fruiting crown is formed, dwarf apple trees will still produce annual shoots that increase yields. For them, pruning consists in thinning the crown:
- removal of shoots growing inside it, as well as those that grow up or down;
- pruning intertwined branches;
- elimination of broken or weak branches;
- the sprouts that appear on the side shoots are also removed.
If the annual growth has decreased in volume or become shorter, anti-aging pruning is carried out. It has a strong stimulating effect on the productivity of a dwarf apple tree and is carried out no more than every 6-7 years. With anti-aging pruning, skeletal branches are shortened to 2-5-year-old wood. In addition, thinning of the crown is also carried out.
One-time strong pruning will weaken the apple tree, so it is carried out for several years. Sometimes, in order to increase the yield, vertical branches are tied to change their orientation to a horizontal one, on which more fruits are tied.
The reason for the decrease in the fruiting of a dwarf apple tree can also be the overgrowth of the near-trunk circle with weeds. In this case, you need to clear the site of weeds, organize watering of the tree and shorten annual growths.
Experienced gardeners are advised to keep a diary of observations and enter into it all changes in the development of a dwarf apple tree. Regular observations will help to gain the necessary experience in caring for the garden.
Pruning is not a very difficult, but important procedure in caring for dwarf apple trees. If performed correctly, an annual bountiful harvest of tasty fruits is guaranteed.