Pruning climbing roses for the winter

An indispensable component of decorative landscaping are climbing roses, beautiful bright colors enliven any composition. They require competent care, in which an important place is occupied by pruning and sheltering climbing roses in the fall.

Climbing roses are called having long shoots, according to the nature and length of which they are divided into different groups.

Types of climbing roses

Curly – the longest, they have flexible green shoots that spread up to 15 meters. They are true roses. Small double flowers are collected in inflorescences covering the entire length of the shoot. This species was named Rambler. Most of its varieties are winter hardy. They need a light, dry cover. Climbing roses bloom profusely in June-July.

By crossing with other varieties, climbing roses were bred from climbing roses, which they called Climber. They bloom profusely in the form of inflorescences collected from large flowers. Some varieties also re-bloom. Plants are winter hardy and resistant to powdery mildew.

The third species originated from spray roses as a result of mutations. They are called Climbing. Varieties are distinguished by larger flowers – up to 11 cm in diameter and are adapted mainly to mild climatic conditions.

Trimming value

Different types of climbing roses require different pruning methods, depending on the characteristics of the species. Proper pruning performs the following tasks:

• getting rid of old shoots, the plant rejuvenates;
• removal of excess shoots contributes to the thinning of the bush and provides uniform lighting and air access;
• when pruning, a decorative formation of a bush occurs;
• the rose gives more lush flowering, the root system strengthens and develops more intensively;
• there is a higher concentration of nutrients;
• increases the resistance of the plant to diseases;
• too large bushes are difficult to cover for the winter;
• pruning provides high-quality material for propagating bushes.

If roses are not pruned, they will begin to hurt and bloom less, and over time they may die. Beginning gardeners who do not yet know how to properly prune a rose can use a simplified pruning form:

• reduce the height of the bush by half;
• remove all old or dead shoots, cutting them off at the very base.

In order to determine the old shoot, you need to carefully examine the bush. Old branches are much thicker than others, the bark on them is excessively dry. They are also distinguished by a large number of lateral shoots, which are less well supplied with food due to significant lignification of the main stem. Pruning old branches helps the bush to renew itself.

Required cutting equipment

To properly trim, you need to prepare a quality tool:

• pruner, garden knife or saw must be well honed, otherwise they will not be able to provide smooth cuts;
• a blunt tool will leave disheveled sections, which will become a source of infection for the bush;
• before cutting, it is necessary to disinfect the tool;
• work should be in tight work gloves that protect against spikes;
• to collect old branches, it is better to use a garden rake.

Sections must be treated with a disinfectant. Can be used for this:

• garden pitch;
• potassium permanganate or copper sulfate;
• crushed activated carbon or wood ash.

When to prune

Autumn pruning of climbing roses can be started only when the air temperature at night stays stable at about minus three degrees – for the middle lane this time coincides with the end of October. If pruned earlier, then warm weather will promote the development of buds, which will lead to the death of shoots in winter. It is impossible to prune even in August, since the shoots that appear will not have time to become woody before frost and will die. The frozen branch will then thaw and become a favorable environment for the reproduction of fungi.

In order to prevent the appearance and subsequent freezing of shoots, preventive measures must be taken already in the summer:

• at the end of July, stop fertilizing climbing roses with nitrogen compounds;
• increase the application of potash and phosphorus fertilizers – the first will help strengthen the root system of the plant and the faster maturation of existing shoots, and phosphorus will feed future buds;
• after the last feeding, you need to stop removing flowers – this measure will help prevent the growth of new buds.

General pruning rules

Pruning for the winter of climbing roses should be carried out in dry sunny weather, adhering to the following recommendations:

• first of all, diseased and damaged shoots are removed; lignified branches must be removed with a hacksaw;
• 4-5 shoots of the current year should remain on the bush, evenly spaced;
• white twigs are also cut off – they will still freeze and become a source of disease;
• it is also necessary to remove the shoots directed inside the rose bush – growing up, they will thicken it;
• all old shoots after pruning should be burned immediately;
• pruning should be carried out above the kidney, at a distance of 4-5 mm from it;
• the kidney should be on the outside of the shoot;
• the cut should be inclined and pass at an angle of 45 degrees – then moisture will not remain on it;
• leaves and dried flowers should also be removed;
• often shoots with small leaves appear from the base of the roots – this wild growth should be cut immediately, otherwise the whole bush will “run wild”.

You can get acquainted with the rules of cropping by watching the video.

Differences in pruning depending on the variety

The type of pruning depends on the length of the lashes, the number of branches and the height of the bush.

1. In large-flowered varieties of climbing roses, in which most of the buds are in the upper part of the shoots, a long pruning is performed. The third part of all branches is deleted. The remaining shoots should have no more than 10 buds. After wintering, bright inflorescences will appear along their entire length.
2. Before sheltering roses from the winter cold, medium pruning is most effective. She is quite gentle, and suits almost all types of weaving roses. The exception is curly. With medium pruning, up to 7 buds are left on the shoots.
3. Short pruning of roses in autumn is rarely carried out, since after it there is a danger of freezing roses. It can be carried out in areas with mild winters and mainly for small-flowered varieties. With short pruning, only up to three buds are left on the shoots.

Ground cover roses may not be pruned in autumn, and in curly roses only damaged branches or very old ones are removed.

If the pruning of a climbing rose is done incorrectly, it will die in winter. Her bush should be cut only by a third, removing old, last year’s branches and broken shoots. This will provide an opportunity for renewal and the emergence of new inflorescences.

Simultaneously with the pruning of climbing roses, it is necessary to produce their garter, which will guide the lashes in a horizontal or inclined position.

Shelter of roses for the winter

It is necessary to cover climbing roses for the winter only after the onset of constant frost. They calmly tolerate the effects of small frosts and even become more resistant to cold, but will not withstand sudden changes in temperature. If you cover roses before frost, the buds will begin to sprout, and the plant will die. To shelter the bushes you need to choose dry weather:

• the lashes, cleared of leaves and old shoots, are twisted and bent to the ground, laying a spruce branch from below;
• then you should strengthen the whips in the ground with reliable hooks;
• warm from above with spruce branches, wooden boxes or cardboard boxes;
• cover the entire structure with one of the types of modern covering materials.

If the pruning of climbing roses, their shelter and all measures to prepare the bushes for winter are carried out correctly, next summer they will thank with lush bright flowering.