Pruning an apple tree in spring

Why you need to prune an apple tree in spring 

Just imagine: May, the apple tree blossoms. Can you cut? Can. But it’s a pity. Then the ovaries appear, in the summer they grow up, apples are poured – again it’s a pity to cut, well, how to deprive yourself of part of the crop ?! In the autumn, when the fruits are harvested, the leaves have fallen, it would seem that you can start, but at this time it often rains – it is dirty and cold, you don’t want to go outside again. In winter, frost and snow. Therefore, early spring remains. 

When to prune an apple tree in spring 

March is the perfect time to prune apple trees! 

However, you can do the formation of trees in February, but on condition that the air temperature is above -5 ° C. If it’s colder, it’s better not to disturb the apple trees, wounds in such weather overgrow very poorly. 

And in no case should you cut apple trees in April, during sap flow! Otherwise, the tree may die, because oozing wounds practically do not heal. 

How to prune an apple tree in spring 

At this time, it is better to carry out anti-aging pruning. It kills three birds with one stone: the fruits become larger, the yield increases by 20 – 60%, the frost resistance of trees increases, and besides, they are easier to process from diseases and pests. 

Three trim steps: 

1. To achieve such results, the first step is to shorten the trunk – its height should not exceed 2 m. The cut should be exactly above a large branch (Fig. 1). Otherwise, a dry stump is formed, and then a hollow. 

2. After the central conductor is shortened, all shoots growing inside the crown (1) must be removed – they shade the tree and are an excellent breeding ground for diseases and pests. Ultimately, the tree will take on the shape of a bowl – the main branches should “look” outward (Fig. 2). 

3. The next step is to trim the lateral skeletal branches. Their length is a maximum of 2,5 m. It is necessary to shorten the outer shoots that “look” outward from the crown (Fig. 3). 

After such pruning of a tree in the spring, young shoots, the so-called tops, will intensively grow on it. Most of them will have to be removed (1), and from the rest it will be necessary to form fruit branches in the future. 

Rules for caring for an apple tree after pruning 

After such a radical pruning, trees in the spring should be well fed. 

The first thing you need is nitrogen fertilizers – they are needed for the growth of young shoots. For example, manure can be added to the soil for digging (4 – 6 kg per 1 sq. M. of the trunk circle) (2) or chicken manure (1 – 2 kg is diluted in a bucket of water and the trees are watered at the rate of one and a half liters per 1 sq. M. .). 

Mineral fertilizers can also be used instead of organics. Ammophoska and saltpeter are easy enough to scatter under the trees, but it is better to sprinkle urea with soil. By the way, experts recommend applying nitrogen fertilizers not immediately, but in two steps. Half the dose – in April, the second part – in early June. 

In addition to nitrogen, pruned trees need phosphorus – it enhances flowering. And potassium, which improves fruit quality and increases winter hardiness. Phosphate fertilizers are applied in spring, but potash fertilizers are applied only in autumn. 

And do not forget the main thing: after you make fertilizer, you need to water the trees at the rate of 2 – 3 buckets per 1 sq. m. And the next day, the soil in the trunk circle should be properly loosened. 

What to do if the apple tree does not grow 

First of all, you need to understand what is the reason. And there may be several. 

1. High groundwater level. The ground level for an apple tree should not be higher: 3 m – on vigorous rootstocks, 2,5 m – on medium-sized and 1,5 m – for dwarf forms. 

But many summer residents, planting apple trees on the site, simply do not think about groundwater. And young plants do not give cause for concern. But when they are 10–15 years old and the roots reach the dangerous layer, the plants stop growing, the leaves change color to yellow or brown, and the tree is severely affected by fungal diseases. And when the summer heat comes, the leaves fall en masse. 

What to do. It is very difficult to correct the situation here – you cannot transplant an adult tree. Therefore, the only way out is to make a cardinal pruning of the apple tree and grow it in the form of a compact tree 2–2,5 m high – it will not need to run roots very deep to get water and food. 

2. Poor soils. If you have sand or sandy loam in your area, the apple tree will suffer – there are practically no nutrients in such soils, they do not retain moisture, and in frosty winters with little snow, the roots of apple trees freeze. 

What to do. Every year, bring as much humus or compost under the apple tree as possible – in spring and autumn. And then dig up the soil along the diameter of the crown onto the spade bayonet. In summer, you can put mowed grass under the trees. Over time, the soil will become more fertile. 

Sow peas in the near-stem circles – special bacteria live on its roots, which saturate the soil with nitrogen. And after you have harvested – dig the soil along with the tops – this is additional organic matter. 

The first time, until soil fertility has increased, feed the apple tree with mineral fertilizers: 

In the end of April: Scatter 3 cups of urea evenly in the near-stem circle of a tree. If grass grows in the near-trunk circle or a lawn is sown, just water it. And if the soil is dug up, then the fertilizer should simply be embedded in the soil with a rake. 

At the beginning of flowering. At this time, the trees need complex top dressing. It is prepared as follows: 200 cups of superphosphate, 5 cups of potassium sulfate, 3 liters of mullein infusion or 20 liters of bird droppings are poured into a 10-liter barrel (if there is no organic matter, you can take 3,5 cups of urea instead). After that, the barrel is filled to the top with water, everything is thoroughly stirred and allowed to brew for a week. Consumption rate: 4 – 5 buckets per adult tree (for young ones – 1 bucket). 

When the fruits begin to ripen. This time, 200 glasses of nitrophoska and 5 g of dry sodium humate are taken for 20 liters of water. Everything is thoroughly mixed. Consumption rate – 3 buckets per tree. 

Immediately after harvesting: 1,5 cups of superphosphate and 1 cup of potassium sulfate are scattered under a tree and watered. 

In general, the last dressing is optional. But experienced gardeners know that it is extremely useful – after it, the trees tolerate winter frosts better.

3. Southern seedling. If you bought an apple tree seedling from your hands, in the market, on the side of the road, it is more likely that it was brought from the south and grown there. Such trees grow very poorly in the middle zone, they constantly freeze in winter and you are unlikely to get a harvest from them – usually they die after 4-5 years. 

What to do. Do not suffer, get rid of this tree (yes, it’s a pity, but you can’t help it) and plant another variety. Buy seedlings from trusted nurseries and choose zoned varieties (you can check which apple tree varieties are suitable for your region on the website of the State Register of Breeding Achievements (3).

Popular questions and answers

We talked about spring pruning of apple trees with agronomist-breeder Svetlana Mikhailova – she answered the most popular questions of gardeners.

Sources of

1. Dubrova P.F., Egorov V.I., Kamshilov N.A., Koroleva N.I. et al. Gardener’s Handbook, ed. Second // State publishing house of agricultural literature, Moscow, 1955 – 606 p.
2. Khamurzaev S.M., Borzaev R.B., Khusainov Kh.A. A rational way of fertilizing in intensive gardens // Fertility No. 1, 2017

   https://cyberleninka.ru/article/n/ratsionalnyy-sposob-ispolzovaniya-udobreniy-v-sadah-intensivnogo-tipa

3. State Register of Breeding Achievements

   https://reestr.gossortrf.ru/