Madeira is a Portuguese fortified wine named after its birthplace, the island of Madeira. Drinks of this group can be anything: white, red, pink, dry, sweet. But what unites all styles of Madeira (not counting the strength of 18-23 degrees) is a unique manufacturing technology that forms a recognizable caramel taste with smoky notes.
History
The word “Madeira (Madeira)” is translated from Portuguese as “forest”, and it is not surprising: the entire island is covered with dense thickets. The history of winemaking in the region began in the XNUMXth century, during the Portuguese colonization. The first samples of local wine were made by the traditional method, without fastening, but they did not endure the long journey “to the mainland” and deteriorated. Over time, island wines began to be distilled into strong alcohol. However, it was not yet a real Madeira.
The legend says that once a ship carrying a batch of wine from Portugal to India fell into a deep calm and was forced to turn back without reaching its destination (however, it is possible that the ship did manage to reach the coast of India, it’s just that no one was interested in the goods) . The drink rolled back and forth, experiencing the effects of the equatorial climate, sea air and heaving. So, quite by accident, Madeira wine turned out, and fortified wines aged in the sea, following the example of that very first batch, still receive the status of Vinho da Roda and are valued above other varieties.
In addition, the Portuguese island has a unique volcanic soil, potassium contained in the soil affects the taste of local grapes, and due to the inability to dig a deep cellar, the peasants stored wines in attics under the roof, providing drinks with a permanent natural “sauna”.
The XVIII century was the high point of Madeira, from which the Old and New Worlds were crazy. This wine was drunk in Africa, Europe, Russia. With a glass of Madeira, they even made a toast in honor of the signing of the US Declaration of Independence. The feast of taste ended with an epidemic of powdery mildew that hit the vineyards of the island. It took more than 4 years for the vines to recover, and when things seemed to be going smoothly, phylloxera came to Europe. Because of these diseases, most of the autochthonous varieties died in Madeira, which were subsequently replaced by European counterparts, but the taste was no longer the same.
The next surge in the popularity of Madeira occurred at the beginning of the 1900th century: in the XNUMXs, producers specialized in simple and affordable styles of wine, often using Tinto Negro grapes as raw materials. Recently, the reverse trend has been observed: winemakers are ready to bring quantity to the detriment of quality. The government issues laws regulating the content of “non-noble” grape varieties in Madeira, American hybrids are completely prohibited.
Despite the fact that only the dessert Madeira from the Malvasia grape variety has the DOC status (wine of controlled geographical origin), connoisseurs believe that real Portuguese fortified wine should be made exclusively on the island of the same name in compliance with all the nuances prescribed by the technology. Drinks from other regions and even countries can also be called Madeira, but they differ significantly in taste and smell.
Madeira production technology
Grapes
There are four “noble” grape varieties for Madeira, in order of decreasing sugar content:
- Malvasia. It turns out a sweet wine with the taste of coffee and caramel.
- Boal – used to produce semi-sweet full-bodied Madeira. The taste has a smoky bitterness.
- Verdelho is a white grape that is used to make a semi-dry wine with a pronounced fruity taste and tones of honey.
- Sersial is a distant relative of Riesling, a raw material for white dry varieties. Notes of sea salt, spices, citrus, almonds are noted in the bouquet.
If any of these varieties is indicated on the label, its content cannot be lower than 85%, the remaining 15% falls on the varieties “Tinto Negro” or “Complex”.
At auctions, there are still bottles of Madeira from the half-extinct and half-forgotten varieties Terrantesch, Bashtardu, Moscatel. This wine belongs to the category of “luxury”: not only is it made from rare grapes, but also aging is at least several decades.
Stages
At the initial stage, the production of Madeira is no different from the production of any other wine. The crushed pulp is left to ferment, but the process is rarely allowed to complete. As soon as the future wine reaches a certain strength (which one depends on the grape variety and the winemaker’s intention), grape alcohol (necessarily certified by the relevant authority) is added to the composition and sent for aging at elevated temperatures – “maderization”.
High temperature triggers the Maillard reaction, during which amino acids interact with sugar, and the drink acquires a characteristic amber color and caramel tones in the bouquet.
There are three standard ways to get Madeira:
- Cuba de calor. The cheapest and fastest method. The wine is poured into steel or concrete tanks and kept at a temperature of 90 degrees Celsius for at least 55 days. The tanks are heated by a pipe system.
- Armazem de calor. Alcoholic raw materials are poured into oak barrels and placed in special well-heated rooms in which the wine is aged for 6-12 months.
- Canteiro. The most expensive way (not including travel to India and back). Madeira barrels are placed in the attic so that direct sunlight falls on them. In this natural “steam room”, the drink can mature for 20-100 years and, due to its high strength, does not deteriorate.
Types of Madeira
Depending on the shutter speed, Madeira happens:
- Normal (finest) – 3 years.
- Reserva (reserve) – 5 years.
- Reserva Velha (special reserve) – 10 лет.
- Exceptional reserve (extra reserve) – 15 лет.
- Frasqueira Vintage – 20 years and older.
Four main styles are distinguished by taste, coinciding with the names of “noble” grape varieties. Plus, you can meet Madeira:
- Solera (a blend of several vintages with different aging periods in barrels, similar to sherry brandy in terms of production method);
- Rainwater (weaker variation, usually entirely from Tinto Negra).
In addition, culinary Madeira is a little different – this is a low-quality variety that housewives add to pastries or sauces. Often, producers pour culinary Madeira immediately with pepper and salt – so that resellers cannot then repackage the drink in beautiful bottles and sell it under the guise of “real” Portuguese wine.
How to drink Madeira
Due to the variety of tastes, Madeira can act both as an aperitif and a digestif for appetizers, main course or dessert.
Chilled to 15 degrees, Madeira is served in tulip glasses with a high stem. The cup is filled only 2/3 so that the wine “opens”. In fact, you can choose your own Madeira variety for any dish: dry wine goes well with meat, sweet wine goes well with cakes and coffee. Thanks to tannins and acidity, the drink makes successful gastronomic pairs even with citruses or balsamic vinegar.
The Portuguese themselves believe that there is no need to interrupt such a wonderful taste, and they drink Madeira without eating anything, before or after a meal.
An interesting fact: Madeira is, in fact, an “eternal” wine. Thanks to the addition of alcohol, the drink does not sour, and over time it only becomes more refined and more expensive. In addition, an open bottle can be stored for more than a year: the contents will not run out of steam and will not lose their taste.