Peptides in cosmetics: how they work, why they are useful and what they are for

Peptides – what are they?

Peptides – these are short chain natural or synthetic protein (protein) bonds, whose molecules consist of two or more amino acid residues. In cosmetology, they are one of the most effective active ingredients in skin care products.

Peptides were first isolated in Germany thanks to biochemical research at the end of the XNUMXth century. After a detailed study and identification of a wide range of useful properties, peptides began to be actively used in cosmetology and medicine.

Types of peptides 

Many well-known active ingredients common in cosmetology, such as collagen, elastin, are also proteins, therefore they interact well with peptides and complement and increase the effectiveness of each other as part of care product formulas. Let’s analyze what peptides for the face are, what their mechanism of action is and what is the difference between them. There are four main promising areas of peptides in cosmetology:

• Signal

  They fill the deficit of building material and stimulate the division of dermal cells, the life cycle of which is coming to an end, and are also responsible for the regeneration of damaged fibroblasts. Their duties include stimulating the synthesis of natural hyaluronic acid, collagen, elastin, if their number in the cells is reduced, thereby increasing the density, elasticity and firmness of the skin. This type of peptides make up the vast majority of cosmetic components, among which Matrixyl is distinguished.

• Stimulants

  Or, as they are also called, transport peptides: they deliver nutrients to cells, and also help stabilize collagen fibers, stimulate the synthesis of water-retaining molecules. They also affect the skin turgor and, by establishing its basal layer, contribute to the restoration and healing of tissues. The most common of these are copper tripeptides.

• Relaxing

  Muscle relaxants or neurotransmitters, known for their similar functions to Botox, relax nerve impulses and muscles, slowing down their contractions. Due to this, mimic wrinkles are smoothed out, preventing the appearance of new creases and skin folds. The effect of the use of relaxing peptides is really similar to injections of butolotoxin and is cumulative: the first visible changes will become noticeable no earlier than after 2 weeks of using a product based on them. Argireline is the most common neurotransmitter.

• Immune

  These are antioxidants that prevent oxidative stress of the skin and prevent the damaging effects of free radicals and metal ions on cells. Immune peptides, such as dipeptide carnosine, are used to accelerate skin regeneration and healing after traumatic aesthetic procedures and to care for oily skin prone to acne.

The use of peptides for facial skin

• In cosmetics

  Peptides are often found in the basis of cosmetic formulas and are suitable for the care of any type of skin, even sensitive ones. Significantly improve the condition of the epidermis, restoring its tone, smoothness, firmness, elasticity. Peptides in age-related cosmetics are designed to fight the first signs of aging and are responsible for their prevention, so you can start using products based on them from the age of 25. Also, the component is necessary for the care of sensitive allergic skin. To improve the penetration of amino acids, before applying peptide cosmetics, it is recommended to carry out deep cleansing and exfoliation of the skin.

• In cosmetology

  In cosmetology, skin peptides are found in cocktails for anti-aging injections, for example, in mesotherapy, biorevitalization, fillers. Also, professional peptide cosmetics are used to treat rosacea and other skin diseases due to their powerful healing and regenerating effects.

How peptides work in cosmetics: benefits for facial skin

Peptides have different ability to penetrate into the deep dermal layers and have different effects on the skin condition depending on the sequence of amino acid bonds. Peptide molecules are smaller than protein molecules, so it is easier for them to penetrate the stratum corneum of the epidermis. As a rule, one cosmetic formula most often contains several types of skin peptides.

Consider what properties peptides have in cosmetics:

• They start the process of regeneration of skin cells.
• Responsible for the renewal and restoration of the cellular matrix.
• Stimulate the production of natural hyaluronic acid, collagen, elastin.
• They increase skin turgor and density, providing a noticeable lifting effect.
• Align the skin relief, smoothing wrinkles.
• Provide antioxidant protection, protect against free radicals.
• Relax (but do not block) the muscles, prevent the occurrence of new creases.
• Prevents early signs of aging.
• Lighten age spots by inhibiting melanin synthesis.
• Improve complexion, restoring freshness and a rested look to the image.
• Accelerate the healing process of tissues, soothe the skin.
• Help in the fight against signs of acne: pimples, blackheads.
• Improve microcirculation.
• Prevent the appearance of rosacea.
• Regulate the activity of the sebaceous glands, control the production of sebum.

Indications for the use of cosmetics with peptides

Based on the breadth of the spectrum of properties beneficial for the skin, we will analyze in what situations it would be appropriate to use peptide cosmetics and what skin problems it helps to cope with.

• Dryness and dehydration of the skin: peptides for the face stimulate the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, soften, moisturize, nourish the skin and smooth out dehydration creases.
• Age-related changes: even out the color and texture of the skin, compensate for the loss of firmness and elasticity, prevent the manifestation of new signs of aging, start the processes of epidermis renewal, and prevent oxidative stress of the skin.
• Irritation: soothes, reduces skin sensitivity, restores comfort, softens, moisturizes, restores the hydrolipidic barrier.
• Acne (pimples, blackheads, comedones): have a healing, anti-inflammatory effect, shrink pores, improve blood circulation.

Formats of cosmetic products with peptides

Peptide face products usually have a rich texture and are mainly presented in the form of face creams. Dense fatty and oily bases improve the penetration of amino acids into the epidermal layers of the skin. There are also highly concentrated products based on the active ingredient, for example, serum.

Light textures, such as gels, fluids, balms, rarely include peptide compounds in the basis of the active formula. If you are looking for a light product with peptides in the composition, use the soothing care for allergic skin Toleriane Ultra Fluide with neurosensin (a molecular peptide structure) that reduces the reactivity of the epidermis.

Review of cosmetics with La Roche-Posay peptides

Soothing care for hypersensitive reactive skin Toleriane Ultra with neurosensin, squalane and shea butter instantly returns comfort to sensitive atopic skin, softens, relieves irritation, restores a protective hydrolipidic mantle.

Consumer feedback:

Elena: A huge plus for me was that the cream can be applied to the moving eyelid – I was worried about the peeling that went away when using another cream. Cosmetics are easily applied to Toleran, after applying a pleasant feeling of freshness and moisture. It did not cause any allergies, unlike the cream of another brand. Also a plus for me was that the cream is suitable for those who use contact lenses.

Galina: I buy not the first time. this is number one! Removes the feeling of dryness and itching! The skin is soft and “calm”. With atopy, it helps a lot, lays down without a film and shine.

Tatyana: It goes like a light serum. I apply before the main cream. I suffer from increased dryness of the skin and post-acne, the skin is very sensitive to the sun and hard water. I have tried many different cosmetics. This product really helps and my skin feels better. The composition is also good, without alcohol. Switched to this brand completely.

Toleriane Ultra Dermallergo Intensive soothing serum that activates the protective function of the skin with a high concentration of neurosensin peptide quickly and effectively reduces the reactivity of hypersensitive skin, intensively moisturizes, strengthens, protects, softens allergic epidermis.

Consumer feedback:

Albina: Excellent serum, perfectly moisturizes, does not stick, neutral smell, after a month of use, the skin has become denser and less sensitive to external irritants. I apply both in the morning and in the evening, it fits under makeup, the skin does not dry out during the day and feels comfortable.

Tatyana: My skin is combination and sensitive with redness. After the first application, the skin immediately tightened, became lighter and small wrinkles around the eyes were filled. I use at night – this is a great option to help my skin recover during sleep.

Toleriane Ultra Yeux for ultra-sensitive eyelid skin with neurosensin and niacinamide has a powerful regenerating, decongestant, soothing effect, relieves redness, irritation, dryness, moisturizes and softens due to squalene and shea butter in the composition.

Consumer feedback:

Anna: For sensitive skin, a must have. It does not give any negative reaction, on the contrary, it soothes, softens and moisturizes. The bottle is super handy. It takes a long time.

Oksana: Perfectly moisturizes and relieves irritation. Works great at all stages of use. Not greasy. Very light and absorbs well.

Evgeniya: I have been using Toleriane for 3 years, I am satisfied with all the products of this range, it suits me perfectly. Eye cream is no exception. Eyes do not water, do not swell. The cream does not roll under the foundation. Lightweight, non-greasy.

Frequently asked Questions. Dermatologist Alexander Prokofiev, La Roche-Posay brand expert answers

Do peptides penetrate the skin?

In cosmetology, a huge variety of peptides with different directions of action is used. Most of them penetrate the epidermal layers of the skin and have a powerful renewing and rejuvenating effect on cells. Some peptide compounds do not penetrate the epidermis, remaining on its surface and stimulating the activity of fibroblasts.

What do peptides in cosmetics not combine with?

Peptide cosmetics are not recommended to be used in combination with retinoids (derivatives of vitamin A) and AHA acids (fruit acids), Vitamin C (when combined with copper peptides). These active ingredients deactivate the effectiveness of the peptides.