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Peony Bowl of Beauty is a herbaceous perennial with large dense foliage and Japanese-type flowers. Bright lilac-yellow petals surround pale lemon staminodes. This variety is characterized by long flowering and delicate aroma.
Description Peony Bowl of Beauty
Milky-flowered peony Bowl of Beauty is an unpretentious plant that tolerates winter and drought well. The frost resistance of this variety allows it to be kept in most regions of Our Country without additional shelter for the winter. Being in the winter hardiness zone 3, the plant withstands frosts down to -30 °C.
The peony has abundant and long flowering
The Bowl of Beauty has erect stems up to 80 cm high. They branch slightly, but this does not prevent the bushes from being lush. Installation of supports during cultivation is not required, the stems independently cope with the load.
The leaves of the “Bowl of Beauty” are large, according to the classification – regular and triple-triple. They have a rich dark green color. The leaves shimmer in the sun.
This variety of peonies has a powerful root system with fleshy roots. Therefore, the plant tolerates drought well and loves lit places. In the shade “Bowl of Beauty” does not bloom.
Features of flowering
This variety belongs to the group of Japanese herbaceous peonies. The flowering period is medium early. Appears on a bush from 15 flowers with a diameter of 15-17 cm. Flowering lasts a long time: from June to July.
Single fuchsias of the Japanese type captivate with a delicate aroma and bright color. In the center are first bright lemon staminodes, and then, over time, they turn pale and become terry pale yellowish.
The color of the petals “Bowl of Beauty” is bright throughout the entire flowering period. Its shade is in the range between pink and lilac.
Application in design
The herbaceous peony Bowl of Beauty is equally good in any landscape compositions. All possible combinations of this variety are based on the characteristics of flowering and color.
The most popular combinations with other types of peonies. By choosing varieties with different flowering periods, you can create a flower garden that retains its decorative effect for a long time. And if the plants bloom at the same time, the result will be the brightest composition of flowers of different shapes and colors.
Flowers solitary and large, capable of reaching 25 cm in diameter.
From a huge number of varieties of peonies – tree-like, herbaceous, as well as hybrids, you can choose the most spectacular and create a beautiful landscape based on the contrast of shades of foliage and inflorescences. For example, Primavera is often used to combine with Bowl of Beauty.
It is worth noting that it is not easy to create compositions from Japanese and terry flower types, so peonies with Japanese-type flowers are better suited for Bowl of Beauty. Jan Van Leeuwen, Hit Parade and Gold Standard are good.
In addition to flower beds, peonies can be used to frame terraces, alpine slides or clearings. Single plantings of the Bowl of Beauty also look good.
Methods of reproduction
Peonies are rarely propagated by seeds: this is a long laborious process that does not always end in success. But the vegetative method, with the right approach, guarantees the success of reproduction. The most commonly used division of the bush.
Depending on the purpose, division is carried out with partial or complete digging of the bush. Young peonies are removed completely to divide the plant into two or three bushes. The old big “Bowl of Beauty” is partially dug up, mainly to rejuvenate and heal the plant.
On the “delenka” of the plant there should be several growth buds
The division begins with cutting the stems. Their height should be no more than 10 cm. Young bushes are dug out entirely, then dirt is removed with a stream of water. Dig up a “delenka” with several stems. Old bushes are dug in only from the side where you can take the “delenka”. The soil is carefully removed from the roots and a part of the root is cut out.
After receiving the “delenka” you need to help the plant recover. First, the original root is given a couple of days to dry out, then it can be covered with a mixture of earth and compost.
The process ends with the fact that the “divide” itself is put in order. Old rotten roots are removed without fail. Healthy ones need to be shortened to 15-18 cm.
Rules of landing
The first step is to choose a suitable place, taking into account the requirements of the peony. In the shade and even partial shade, the Bowl of Beauty will not bloom. A well-lit place, not shaded by large plants or buildings, is suitable for planting.
You need to plant home “delenki” in early autumn. Purchased peonies in bags are planted in May, and those purchased in containers are important to land before mid-summer.
In the chosen place, they dig a landing hole with a depth of 60 cm. If the landing is group, then a distance of a meter is maintained between the holes, it will be enough for the Bowl of Beauty when it grows.
The neighborhood of a peony with shrubs and trees is undesirable
Now you need to prepare a mixture that includes humus, black soil and fine clay in equal proportions. The addition of wood ash and superphosphate maximizes the chances of a successful planting. The mixture is poured into the pit, leaving 12 cm to the top.
In the center of the pit, a mound is prepared, into which a “delenka” is installed. Now the roots need to be sprinkled with earth, calculating so that the distance from the buds to the surface of the earth is 3-6 cm. If this distance is not maintained, the peony may not bloom in the future.
It remains to water the new bush well, add a little earth and mulch. For the latter, sawdust, dry moss or non-acidic peat will fit.
If the young “Bowl of Beauty” flowers appear in the first two years, they must be removed. You can leave a few, but the bulk will have to be cut off. Thanks to this, the root system will be better formed. The result will be a more lush and bright bloom in the future.
Aftercare
Despite the fact that peonies are not demanding flowers, without proper care, Bowl of Beauty peonies will not look like in the photo. The flowers are inexpressive, dull and smaller in size, the bushes are less sprawling, the stems are weak. Creating the right agrotechnical background will help to avoid this.
Peony care consists in timely watering, feeding and mulching.
Peonies are moisture-loving plants and require weekly watering. During a drought, you can moisten them even more often. It is most important to provide flowers with moisture during budding and after flowering, when the buds are laid for the next year. With each watering, it is necessary to pour a couple of buckets onto the bush. It is not advisable to wet the flowers, stems and leaves, otherwise there will be a risk of disease. Also, the petals will begin to fall off and blacken.
Fertilizers with a high content of substances such as phosphorus and potassium are mineral supplements that will help the development of the Bowl of Beauty. It is better to spend them in the spring. Half a glass per bush will be enough.
Spring mulching is a favorite procedure for peonies. Mowed grass is perfect for this. It quickly rots and biohumus is formed. Moss and sawdust will also be appropriate. If the plant is sick, they will be the preferred option.
Loosening the soil should be done carefully – you can not touch the growth buds. You can start loosening deep only at a distance of 15 cm from the stems. Loosening will help retain moisture and improve aeration. It is better to carry out this procedure after rains or watering.
Preparation for winter
You need to start by trimming the bushes. The best time for this is the end of September. If the leaves and stems begin to wither, then you can do this earlier.
In order for the plant to better endure pruning, it must be fertilized. For autumn feeding, bone meal, potassium, phosphorus and wood ash are used. Only nitrogen fertilizers are not suitable for feeding in the fall, because they are needed to stimulate the growth of foliage and stems.
Shelter for the plant is optional – it winters well under snow cover
For the winter, the peony is cut to the very root, but you can leave a couple of centimeters from the stems. Cut leaves can become a haven for parasites that can harm peonies in the new year, so they need to be burned or removed from the site.
Additional shelter is needed only in very cold regions. First, the bushes are mulched with sawdust, the layer height is 5-10 cm. Spruce branches are laid on top of the mulch for insulation. If the snow weakly accumulates in the place where the peony grows, you need to shovel it over the plant with a shovel.
Pests and diseases
Botrytis is the only parasite dangerous to peonies. It is also called gray mold. The prerequisites for the disease can be a cold rainy summer, poor aeration of the soil, especially acidic, as well as mulching the plant with its own tops.
The disease is manifested by the fact that the buds turn brown, and the stems and leaves become covered with brown spots. The plant dries up and dies.
If the symptoms are noticed in time, then the treatment will not be difficult. Preparations “Hom” and “Abiga-Peak” will help to cope with gray rot. If the state is running, all that remains is to cut the bush and cauterize it with brilliant green. The worst outcome would be root damage, in which case the plant can no longer be saved.
Conclusion
Peony Bowl of Beauty is a great solution for flower beds and gardens. The decorativeness of this variety opens up wide opportunities for building beautiful landscape compositions. The unpretentiousness of the peony allows you to grow it everywhere, even in the cold regions of the country.
Peony Bowl of Beauty Reviews
