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Peeling with fruit acids is perhaps the most popular exfoliating procedure today. Want to know how to get the most out of it?
What problems does peeling with fruit acids solve?
How fruit peeling works
Fruit acids weaken the bonds between the cells of the stratum corneum and thus contribute to their removal, exposing clear, young skin.
The skin, devoid of the “husk” of dead cells, looks fresh and radiant.
As a result of a controlled injury to the skin, the process of its renewal is launched. The basic principle of fruit (and any other) peeling is based on stimulating the self-healing of cells – they more intensively produce collagen and elastin, in a hurry to “repair” everything.
For the same reason, young cells are more active in producing natural moisturizing factor, which contributes to the healthy functioning of the skin.
Peeling with fruit acids is said to be the most gentle. But if you have thin, dry, or sensitive skin, it’s best to check with your doctor before having the procedure.
When to apply
Fruit peeling has become a regular skincare routine for many. Home exfoliation courses and significantly more effective peeling courses in a salon or clinic work against:
photoaging and wrinkles;
pigmentation;
post-acne, scars and scars (not too deep);
acne – beta-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid, are used to combat this problem (but a doctor may also recommend fruit peeling).
dullness of the skin with hyperkeratosis (too thick stratum corneum).
Efficiency
The effectiveness of a fruit peel is related to the concentration of the acid. After home, very superficial, peeling, the pigment spot will become paler. And after a course of superficial peeling in the salon (with a higher concentration of acids), it may disappear altogether.
Fruit acid peels have become popular because the recovery process after the procedure is usually not very long, and the effect – renewed and radiant skin – is noticeable almost immediately.
Renewed after peeling, the skin looks radiant, fresh, flawless.
What acids are used for fruit peeling
We list the most popular fruit acids for peeling.
Glycolic (from sugar cane) – perhaps the most popular AHA acid. It is used in a huge range of concentrations, from 2% in home tonic to 70% in salon treatments.
Almond (from sweet almonds) is the softest (along with lactic acid).
Dairy acid, of course, is not fruity in origin, since it is obtained as a result of the fermentation of milk, but in terms of characteristics and action it still belongs to this category. It is considered the mildest of AHA acids, acceptable for use even on damaged sensitive skin.
pyruvic (wine) – Found in grapes. Pyruvic peeling at a certain concentration of acid can have a deeper effect than the most popular glycolic peel.
apple obtained not only from apples, but also from many other fruits and berries: apricots, cherries, cherries. It also has strong antioxidant properties.
Lemon popular in whitening peels, because, in addition to exfoliating, it also has whitening properties. It is rich not only and not so much citrus fruits as, for example, blueberries.
Phytic works quite softly. It is obtained from cereal extracts such as rice husks, quinoa, etc. Gently exfoliates and has an antioxidant effect.
Blueberries, berries, almonds are all sources of fruit acids (ANA) that are used for peeling.
Features of peeling in the salon
Chemical peeling is carried out in a course that requires preparation. You should start with a consultation with a doctor. Depending on the condition of the skin and the problems that need to be solved, he will make a cocktail of fruit acids and select the desired concentration. It all depends on the type of skin, its pH, health characteristics, etc.
On the day of the consultation, the procedure is unlikely to be carried out. Skin needs preparation.
Preparatory stage
Elena Lykova, medical director of the SkinCeuticals brand, recommends the following scheme:
“When preparing for peeling, it is better to use an integrated approach. It is recommended to adjust the usual skin care a month before the procedure.
Incorporate antioxidants into your beauty routine.
Use a renewing (exfoliating) serum in the evenings (before applying night care products).
Use sunscreen with a maximum level of protection (50+). This is a prerequisite for preparing for a chemical peel.
Fruit peeling treatment
A chemical peel is a controlled chemical burn. The beautician applies an acid or a mixture of acids to the cleansed skin of the face and leaves it for a few minutes. Then, with the help of a neutralizing agent, the reaction stops, the acids decompose. The first visual impression after peeling is not the most pleasant: redness, tightness, peeling. The skin needs rehabilitation and competent post-peeling care.
Post-peel care
For a speedy recovery and the best effect after peeling, the following are very important:
the most delicate cleansing (prefer soft foams for washing);
antioxidant serums to accelerate skin recovery;
powerful moisturizing care (without oils!);
products with an SPF factor of at least 50, intended for the face.
Stages of fruit peeling at home
About 10 years ago, a revolution took place in home care. Scientists have found a way to “pour” fruit acids into vials for home use. Of course, one should not expect a stunning effect that is possible after a salon course, but a noticeable and pleasant skin renewal is quite possible at home.
Fruit acids for home use do not tolerate fuss and negligence. Peeling is peeling, and it must also be carried out at home according to the rules.
The product with acids is applied in the evenings to thoroughly cleansed dry skin. Stick to the step by step.
Waterless cleansing with micellar water (with or without oils) to remove make-up and impurities.
Washing with a mild cleanser – gel or mousse, depending on skin type and personal preferences. Do not use scrubs. The skin should be blotted with a soft towel, ideally a silk one.
Tonic without alcohol. Let it soak in completely.
Peeling with fruit acids inflict only for completely dry skinavoiding the eye and lip area unless the manufacturer’s recommendations state otherwise. Products with a low concentration of fruit acids can be used daily (read the recommendations for use on the packaging of the product). Home peels with more concentrated AHA acids are used in courses strictly according to the instructions.
After 2-3 minutes (or as recommended by the manufacturer) on the skin apply a nourishing night cream or a mask. If you use a mask, do not forget to carefully remove the excess after 10-15 minutes.
In the morning before going out, be sure to use cream with sun protection factor.
Funds overview
Peeling serum night action in ampoules Liftactiv Specialist Glyco-C, Vichy
Each ampoule contains a serum based on glycolic and citric acids, designed for two applications. The tool renews the skin, refreshes the complexion, makes fine wrinkles less noticeable.
Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight, SkinCeuticals enriched with soothing and moisturizing ingredients. A tangible peeling effect is given by 10% glycolic acid in combination with phytic acid. We recommend applying moisturizer to your skin in the morning. And don’t forget sun protection.
Two-phase lotion Re-Plasty Light Peel, Helena Rubinstein
Contains glycolic & salicylic acid & nourishing soothing oils. Day after day, it frees the skin from dead cells and restores its radiance.
Ampoules Revitalift Laser x3 with glycolic acid, L’Oréal Paris
For a week, 10% glycolic acid provides a noticeable peeling effect, exfoliating dead cells. Serum is applied at night, and in the morning you need to use a cream with an SPF filter.
Safety measures
Peeling lotions and creams with fruit acids are used at bedtime. These products increase the photosensitivity of the skin, and if applied in the morning, it will give a diametrically opposite result from the expected result: from photoaging to burns, hyperpigmentation and other negative effects of UV exposure.
For owners of sensitive skin, La Roche-Posay brand expert Alexander Prokofiev advises to refrain from acid peels and use them only on the advice of a doctor, preferring the mildest AHA acids – mandelic and lactic.
In post-peel care, it is recommended to avoid moisturizing and nourishing oil-based products. Forming a protective film, they inhibit the restoration of the skin.
If the care after peeling was thorough and reasonable, then the effect will be appropriate.
The list of contraindications for salon chemical peels is the same as for other cosmetic procedures:
pregnancy;
lactation;
any diseases in the acute stage, including acne;
neoplasms of various nature on the skin.
Tips and reviews of cosmetologists
Vichy brand medical expert Elena Eliseeva explains:
“Glycolic peeling (aka peeling with hydroxyacetic acid) differs in acid concentration, which can range from 5% to 70%.
In the first case, the result will be only a slight renewal and smoothing of the skin surface, an improvement in complexion.
In the second, the stratum corneum of the epidermis is “burned out” completely and the tissues are deeply renewed, which helps to reduce visible age-related changes.”
The main indications for glycol peeling are various signs of aging: from wrinkles and reduced skin elasticity to manifestations of photoaging and hyperpigmentation.
Glycolic peeling in high concentration is carried out in the salon by a doctor. Already 3-4 procedures after a noticeable smoothing of the skin, and after a course of 10 peels, the face looks much younger.
However, this update also has disadvantages:
a fairly long recovery period (in the case of high concentrations) – up to a week;
relatively long course;
contraindications, as for any kind of traumatic procedures.