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Park roses are a cultivated wild rose, and even the old garden varieties included in this group were once very long ago bred on its basis. This origin explains their unpretentiousness, amazing durability and abundant flowering. Even the fruits of most of them look decorative, decorate the bush and attract birds, therefore, on plants that do not require shelter for the winter period, they are allowed to ripen after flowering. A tall upright or semi-climbing rose with an abundance of double flowers adorns the park both in single and group plantings. The same park roses are often planted on the plots by summer residents, attracted not only by beauty, but also by ease of care.
Varieties and varieties
Park roses are planted on the lawn, in a cozy corner of the garden, on flower beds or form a hedge from them. In addition to domestic varieties, Canadian varieties are widely used for their amazing winter hardiness and the fact that their preparation for winter is minimal. English roses are sheltered for the winter, but planting and caring for them do not require too much effort and time, which also contributes to popularity.
The Abelzieds variety grows well in the middle lane. Its very thorny tall bushes rise up to 2 m, in early summer they are covered with a large number of pale pink, slightly double flowers with a delicate aroma. Parsla with white flowers is often planted as a hedge, its flowers are collected in small inflorescences of 3 to 5 pieces. On slopes, the fast-growing ‘Blanc Double de Coubert’ bushes can be planted to strengthen the soil. White flowers against the background of dark green leaves look very elegant, the rose is frost-resistant and unpretentious. Domestic breeders continue to work, trying to create not only beautiful, but also resistant to temperature extremes, and especially to severe frosts, varieties.
Canadian varieties are famous for their indifference to high and low temperatures, they grow well in our conditions.
Bright red fragrant roses “Alexander MacKenzie” with a diameter of 5 – 8 cm are collected in brushes on shoots with large thorns. The bush itself grows up to 2 m high and up to 1,5 m wide.
Flowers “Alexander MacKenzie” blooming, change color from lemon to pale cream, the diameter of a fully blossomed flower reaches 9 cm. From one to 8 delicate fragrant flowers can bloom on its velvet stems. “Alexander MacKenzie” is not afraid of frosts of -40 degrees, it is resistant to many traditional diseases, its bush grows straight up, and then the shoots at a height of more than 2 meters bend in an arcuate manner. Sufficiently large flowers (with a diameter of up to 10 cm) are collected in inflorescences of 15 pieces, bright pink buds turn pale as they bloom, and a fully blossomed terry rose is already pale pink with a creamy center. Large snow-white terry flowers with carved petals of the Parsley variety look unusual, the bush grows up to 2 meters tall. And the red ones with inward-curving Quadra rose petals are reminiscent of peonies.
You can meet with us the English beauty “Graham Thomas” of yellow-gold color, blooming all season without interruption. The large red velvet flowers of ‘William Shakespeare’ exude a violet-like fragrance. The red, cupped (slightly peony-like) flowers of ‘Benjamin Britten’ smell like summer fruit.
Video “Landing in the ground”
From the video you will learn how to plant this type of roses in open ground.
Planting and care
Roses are planted in spring until mid-May or in autumn so that the bush takes root in a new place before frost. Autumn planting is preferable, if wintering is easy, the plant will not suffer, then in spring it will grow more actively than planted in April – May. For park roses, care is especially caring in the first three years, at which time you need to think about how to cut to form a bush, how to cover for the winter to protect the young plant. Then an adult plant does not require such a strong wrapping, and pruning is limited to sanitary, and sometimes rejuvenating is carried out, cutting out old 5-year-old shoots.
The soil should be slightly acidic, loose, nutritious. If it is clayey on the site, then it is worth adding peat, sand, compost or humus before planting. In excessively sandy soil, in addition to compost and humus, soddy or simply clay is introduced. Park roses prefer a sunny location, but can grow in partial shade, which will reduce the number of flowers. It is better to grow them in open light lawns or in places protected from drafts. There should be no stagnant water in this place, and groundwater should not come closer to the surface than 1,5 – 1,8 m.
A hole for a bush needs to be dug deep so that all the roots can straighten freely, they should not be allowed to bend or bend, the root neck is deepened by 5–10 cm. After planting, the bush is watered abundantly, the ground around is mulched with peat or straw crumbs. The first 2 – 3 years, roses are not pruned, only in the second half of summer you can pinch or shorten the young shoots a little so that they are not in a hurry to gain length, but have time to ripen before winter.
This type of rose tolerates drought better than an abundance of moisture. Bushes need to be watered rarely, but plentifully – up to 1,5 buckets once every 10 – 12 days.
If you water often and little by little, many small roots grow under the very surface of the earth. They will not make the plant strong, they can freeze in winter. But rare abundant watering contributes to the formation of long strong roots that can seek nutrients at a depth of up to 1,5 m. Such roots are not afraid of winter frosts or lack of moisture, even if you get a poor shelter for park roses for the winter, and the shoots freeze or dry the plant will still survive – new shoots will grow from healthy roots. You need to water under the bush so that water does not fall on the leaves or flowers.
It is necessary to weed and loosen the ground around the bushes as often as possible, plucked weeds must be removed immediately, in no case should they be left near the bushes.
Fertilizer and top dressing
Park roses respond well to the introduction of humus by watering with a solution of slurry. Such fertilizer is carried out in the spring, at this time it is desirable to introduce special fertilizer complexes for roses, since they need a portion of iron, magnesium, and boron. By the end of summer, it is worth giving the roots nutrition containing potassium, calcium, phosphorus. Once or twice (August and September), a bucket of water is poured under the bushes with superphosphate (15 g) and potassium monophosphate (16 g) dissolved in it. In autumn, before the onset of a dormant period, it is recommended to make compost, which will warm in winter and feed in spring.
Top dressing is carried out after watering or simultaneously with it. Then it is desirable to loosen the ground under the bushes and mulch.
How do they reproduce
Almost all varieties are propagated by layering, dividing the bush, root offspring, cuttings. It is easy to get layering – you need to dig in a young flexible shoot, shade and water this place, by autumn it will take root, and in the spring of next year it can be cut off from the mother bush and planted separately.
In early spring or autumn, after flowering, the bushes are divided with a pruner or a very sharp knife into parts, each of which will contain roots and shoots. Places of cuts are treated with charcoal, and parts of the bush are planted separately, as it should be for independent plants. In early spring, you can separate the one-year-old offspring with a root and also plant it separately.
In autumn, you can cut cuttings from semi-lignified shoots or during flowering (preferably in the first half of summer), take green ones with 3-4 buds, root them in one of their possible ways. On the cuttings, you can put an extra shoot cut off in the fall. In the spring they are planted in the ground.
Diseases and pests
Park roses can get powdery mildew, especially in humid summers or if grown in the shade. This very unpleasant fungal disease can destroy the entire bush (as well as infect other plants). First, a barely noticeable gray bloom appears on the back of the leaf, then it covers all the leaves and shoots, if allowed. In case of illness, the affected parts of the plant are destroyed, and the entire bush and surrounding plants are treated with a soda-soap solution or Topaz, Skor, Fitosporin preparations. For prevention, the bushes are sprayed with iron sulfate in spring, and in the summer you can use a solution of salt, sulfur and quicklime.
Among the pests, the most dangerous are garden beetles and raspberry weevils. Beetle larvae eat the buds, and the beetles themselves are able to eat all the greenery, leaving the bare branches to dry out. Therefore, beetles must be collected by hand and carried away or destroyed.
Raspberry weevils can deprive not only roses, but also many garden berries, settling on bushes. To prevent this, you need to remove weeds and plant debris in time, dig up the top layer of soil. This parasite is repelled with infusions of bitter pepper, wormwood, tansy, or a solution of potassium permanganate. During the formation of buds, roses are treated with a soapy-ash solution, which also perfectly drives the weevil away.
The right place, bushes that are not too densely overgrown, and just a careful periodic inspection of plants will help you grow beautiful flowers and not meet with the troubles that diseases and pests cause.
Video “Proper care”
From the video you will learn how to properly care for these plants.
