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They are always not thick enough, long or shiny … Curls cause hot envy among smooth-haired people, but those who have curly hair invariably dream of straightening them. What is the reason for our constant dissatisfaction?
We tend to talk about it in a jocular tone – the issue seems too small to discuss it seriously. However, how many times, looking at ourselves in the mirror, have we experienced annoyance, irritation or despondency – precisely because the hair does not look the way we would like.
The roots of our discontent go deeper than is commonly believed. And although the statement that “hair is the most important attribute of femininity” looks at least out of date, the belief in this is firmly rooted in our ideas. Even if we don’t realize it.
Between dream and reality
35-year-old Elena has been battling the “dull brown fine demon” of her hair for many years with the help of a tint and hot styling: depression. As if the mask falls off and I see myself for what, apparently, I really am – nondescript mediocrity.
During psychoanalytic sessions, all women in one way or another mention how their mother touched their hair.
This problem is well known to any hairdresser: women (and many men) always want to have what they don’t have. More volume, more shine, more softness, or, on the contrary, harder, impeccable smoothness or cool curls … As the art director of the Parisian salon Olivier Cappuri says, “the art of the hairdresser is precisely to bridge this gap between dream and reality.”
Maternal “nodules”
How does this notorious inconsistency arise? During psychoanalytic sessions, says psychoanalyst Marie-Laure Colonna, all women in one way or another mention how their mother touched their hair.
“Someone will remember that the mother handled her daughter’s hair carelessly, impatiently pulled to collect in an ascetic knot or ponytail, and someone will tell that she allowed to walk with long flowing hair … This maternal attitude is manifested through gestures and affects the formation the sexual identity of the girl,” explains the analyst.
Later, hair that no one liked or, on the contrary, that was looked after a lot, will revive memories of this complex relationship. Former pleasures will be experienced again, and old sorrows will be gradually overcome. Or be reborn again.
26-year-old Vasilisa recalls her boyish haircut, because of which she was nicknamed Vaska in elementary grades. “My grandmother was convinced that if you cut your hair short, then later, when I grow up, it will become thicker. As soon as I turned ten, I flatly refused to get a haircut. And for many years I went with my hair down to the middle of my back, not at all wondering whether such a hairstyle suits me or not.
Field of desires
Hair evokes associations with the animal basis of sexuality: the thicker and more magnificent it is, the brighter it shines, the more desire it arouses in the opposite sex.
“Showing off your wild mane, or, conversely, trying to curb it, control it, can tell about our attitude to seduction and sexuality,” says psychoanalyst Isabelle Korolitsky. – If we envy the hair of another person – because it is light or dark, curly or straight – then unconsciously we want to at least partially appropriate the sexual power that we attribute to this image.
In general, if we passionately desire what we think we lack, this most likely indicates that we acutely feel the incompleteness of our personality. We always have this desperate hope to relive the infant state of wholeness.
The path to reconciliation
Dissatisfaction with our hair suggests that we are projecting onto them dreams associated with our identity, our idea of uXNUMXbuXNUMXbself.
“The quick and obvious changes that can be made to our hair make us feel like we ourselves can change in an almost magical way,” explains Isabelle Korolitsky. — Having made a haircut or dyed our hair, we change our image, and hence our identity. We can highlight some aspect of our personality that had previously remained in the shadows – for example, feel a symbolic release from some kind of dependence, dare to more strongly express our femininity … “
Hair is a barometer showing the state of our soul, a laboratory where we experiment with our identity.
Ekaterina, at the age of 40, finally allowed herself to get a haircut and coloring in the leading salon in the capital. “I have three children, and I have always done very little with my hair – thin, straight, rather nondescript by nature. It seemed to me that it deserved neither the time for care nor the expense. Now I understand how wrong I was: for the first time in my life, I have a haircut that gives my hair volume and color, from which they greatly benefit. It seems to be nothing special, but my head looks completely different. For six months now I have been intensively “courting” my hair: I buy a special shampoo in the salon, once a month I go for a haircut to “my” master. And enjoy this miracle of transformation!”
Sophia, 62, has come to terms with her hair by following a very different path: “All my life I have always kept my hair in check – and I worked in theatre. Permanent, styling every day, going to the hairdresser – twice a week, coloring once every three weeks so that the gray hair is not visible … Now my life has changed, I spend most of my time outside the city and finally allowed myself to return to my color, to my gray hair, to make a practical short haircut. It became for her a peculiar way to announce a change in her social status and her age – without any grief.
Hair is a barometer that shows the state of our soul, a laboratory in which we experiment with our identity. And our relationship with hair sometimes reveals more truth about our desires than words.
As for the hair
We are constantly confronted with new inventions and discoveries in the field of hair care today. How do they work? We turned to experts to get answers to several questions.
Psychologies: Can we be sure that oral hair growth supplements won’t cause increased body hair growth?
Ekaterina Turubara, dermatologist: “This should not be feared, since it is the hair growing on the head that becomes the object of influence. Such funds are created according to a special formula in order to act selectively.
The fact is that there are three types of hair on the human body. Cannon – 1-1,5 mm long – they usually cover the entire body. Rougher bristly hair – 1-2 cm long – these include eyelashes, eyebrows. Hair growing on the head is called long hair.
These three types differ from each other in their internal structure. Long hair consists of three layers: the medulla (core), the cortical layer and the cuticle – a thin layer of horny scales that cover the hair like tiles. Vellus hair does not have a medulla, while the active components of dietary supplements that increase hair density affect the medulla.”
Why are hair dryers “with ionization” better than ordinary ones? Why does hair need ions?
René Rast, molecular biologist: “Normal hair has a positive charge. The higher the static charge on the hair, the more they are electrified and tangled. If the device has an ionization function, a stream of negatively charged ions is released on the hair during styling. Due to the opposite charge, the ions are attracted to the surface of the hair and literally envelop it. This helps to reduce moisture loss and color fading (if the hair is dyed) during heat styling, while maintaining elasticity and shine.
What are the real benefits of nano-ceramic coating in styling tools?
“The surface of the hair has a scaly structure, and during heat styling, it can become even more “rough” under the influence of temperature. The use of high-tech materials allows you to reduce damage to the hair during styling – precisely due to the ultra-smooth surface, which smoothes the “relief” of the hair at a microscopic level, literally like an iron smoothes out wrinkled fabric.
For example, Nano-Glide ceramic plates are three times smoother than conventional ceramic plates (which until recently were considered the benchmark) and provide a completely free glide to better protect hair from damage.”
Are hair dyes really harmless?
Sergey Kurakin, creative director of the beauty salon: “All permanent hair dyes contain chemicals that are very aggressive in nature. As for the hair shaft itself, it is dead matter: both paint and so-called therapeutic agents affect it purely cosmetically, without affecting vital functions.
However, dyes have good penetrating power and can be quite toxic, so I think it is best to avoid applying coloring compounds to living tissues – hair roots and scalp. Or, at least, you should do it as little as possible. It was this thought that led me to the idea of creating an author’s staining method – “color stretching”. Keep in mind that the most aggressive ingredients are usually found in reds, coppers, reds, and blondes.”
A vacation for the head: 5 tips from Sally Brooks, art director at a cosmetics company
“Sun, wind and water are not our hair’s best friends,” says Brooks. “As an expert in hair care, the sun is 13 times more destructive than any bleach chemical, especially when combined with sea water or a pool.”
- Before the holidays, it is better to undergo a professional hair restoration procedure in the salon – this is especially true for dyed and permed hair.
- It is not necessary to carry out staining in dark and red tones immediately before the holiday – the color will inevitably fade. For blondes, it’s better to do another lightening or highlighting no later than a week before the vacation and warn the colorist that you are going on a sea holiday so that you get a slightly more saturated shade than usual.
- Even if you don’t color your hair, it’s a good idea to use shampoo and conditioner for color-treated hair while on vacation: they contain powerful UV protection, preventing the natural pigment of the hair from being destroyed.
- Using a sunscreen spray should become a habit, as should protecting your skin from UV rays. Hair can also be protected by a headdress.
- Leave hot styling until you return to the city: the humidity on the coast is high, and it makes no sense to smooth your hair with tongs or try to give it an unnatural shape. The best control is a leave-in balm that keeps hair frizz-free and protects from the elements.