An object of burning love and sharp dislike, the oldest vegetable in the human diet and the most versatile of seasonings, onion is able to perform a memorable solo part on our table.
There are few foods in the world that cause the same abundance of emotional reactions as onions. And the matter, of course, is not only in the notorious “onion tears”. From childhood, the thought of boiled onions is unpleasant for someone, someone does not accept the smell of fresh onions, and for someone in all forms it serves as an integral component of almost any dish. Onion is perceived equally ambiguously in various cultural traditions: the Roman healer Galen advised eating it daily and believed that this vegetable is unmatched in its versatility of use. And the Vedic culinary canon, on the contrary, taboos the use of onions for food: according to legend, its first sprouts appeared on the body of a killed cow, so that any person who eats onions, thereby joins in the murder of an animal sacred to Hindus. Riddles and proverbs, fairy tales and speech idioms, one way or another connected with onions, are found among a variety of peoples. Moreover, the onion is perhaps the only plant to which a person is inclined to attribute an anthropomorphic character – caustic, sometimes mischievous, but generally pretty: it is no coincidence that Gianni Rodari made the onion boy the hero of his fairy tale.
In fact, the reasons for both the universal popularity and the controversial reputation of the onion are associated not so much with its unique features, but with the widest distribution. Since ancient times, more than two hundred varieties of onions have been growing throughout Eurasia – from Great Britain to Eastern Siberia and from Scandinavia to Hindustan. Until the era of great geographical discoveries, which paved the way to the West with exotic spices, it was onion, together with its closest relative garlic, that gave the food of Europeans the necessary sharpness. Despite the changes that have taken place in the structure of nutrition since then, it is in this capacity – as a seasoning that imparts a piquant nuance to dishes – that we primarily perceive onions to this day. Given the variety of its varieties, this approach is not entirely fair: modern culinary trends recommend considering onions as an independent, and sometimes self-sufficient element.
French gastronomic culture has been actively using onions since ancient times: suffice it to mention the famous onion soup, in which a vegetable caramelized over low heat is the only significant component, or the classic onion quiche – an open shortcrust pastry pie stuffed with onions and eggs beaten with milk. However, recently we can talk about the true expansion of onions into other culinary traditions. For example, the famous British chef and TV presenter Jamie Oliver recommends baked onions as the best side dish for fish or chicken. Oliver advises to blanch the onions in boiling water until soft, remove and chop the core of each onion with a spoon (putting aside the resulting hollow cup) and, mixing it with garlic and rosemary, sauté in olive oil until golden brown. After filling this mixture with cream and Parmesan, you need to stuff the onions with it, after which, wrapping each with a slice of bacon, bake in the oven for 25 minutes.
Another famous British cook, Delia Smith (Delia Smith), offers an original recipe for a flip-pie – instead of traditional apples, she advises using red sweet onions. First, the halved onions should be caramelized with a little brown sugar, fresh thyme and butter in a thick-walled pan, then brought to softness in the oven, then covered with a thin layer of shortcrust pastry and baked like a normal pie.
The German culinary tradition has recently been increasingly using onions (and first of all, leeks, brought to northern Europe by the Romans) as the basis for soups: in most cafes and restaurants today you will be offered a puree soup made from the white part of a leek and potatoes , seasoned with cream and garnished with croutons.
Even the mentioned uses of the onion are enough to agree: despite its enduring popularity, it is still underestimated. If we remember that in addition to simple onion, red and leek, a good dozen varieties of onions are used for food, it becomes obvious: the possibilities of this plant are truly endless. Try to create a dish that focuses on wild garlic (wild onion), chives (a close relative of the regular green, but with thinner stems and mild flavor) or shallots (miniature sweetish onions), and you will not only be pleasantly surprised. guests, but also rid your table of yet another stereotype that assigns a modest place to onion, which does not correspond to its colossal gastronomic potential.
Leek fritters with seafood
For 4 persons. Cooking time: 25 min.
2 stalks leeks (white part only) 2 eggs; 2 tbsp. l. flour; 4 tbsp. l. vegetable oil; 400 g of “sea cocktail” (or any seafood to taste); salt.
Rinse the leek, dry it, cut into round slices 2,5–3 cm long. With the handle of a knife, gently push the inner rings of the onion outward to form a cone. Whisk the eggs. Continuing to beat, slowly pour in the flour. Add salt to taste. Heat vegetable oil in a saucepan. Dip leeks in batter and fry in oil until golden brown. Dip the sea cocktail into boiling salted water for 4 minutes, put it in a colander and fill the tubes with it. Serve warm.