Absolutely essential, sun protection should never be neglected. And not just on vacation, when sunbathing. On a daily basis and even in town, the skin must be protected from the harmful effects of the sun’s rays (UVA and UVB), in all exposed areas and in particular on the face where it is more fragile.

To do this, it is recommended to use sun products with a relatively high protection index (SPF50 is generally the recommended minimum). While these products are essential for avoiding sunburn, preventing the acceleration of skin aging and the appearance of pigment spots, but also protecting the skin from the risk of cancer, some of the ingredients that compose them are sometimes found at the heart of controversies … This is the case of l’octocrylène, which is used in the formulation of many cosmetics and in particular that of sunscreens.

Octocrylene is a synthetic sunscreen made from chemically modified carbon compounds. Its presence in the composition of products intended for UV protection is explained by the fact that this ingredient is very effective against UVB radiation (the main cause of sunburn, burns and skin cancer), but also – on a smaller scale – against UVA rays (for their part mainly involved in the appearance of pigment spots and premature skin aging).

But that’s not all ! Indeed, by virtue of its viscous consistency, octocrylene is intended to be water resistant, which makes it all the more efficient during sun exposure. Finally, thanks to its stability, octocrylene can be combined with avobenzone (a very effective filter against UVA), for complete protection.

In summary, this ingredient has long been one of the most popular in the formulation of many sun products, but not only. Indeed, it is also found in the composition of many other cosmetics (anti-aging creams, moisturizers, makeup products, etc.). The problem: its potential dangerousness is now at the heart of all concerns.

According to studies carried out by researchers from the Laboratory of Biodiversity and Microbial Biotechnologies of the Oceanological Observatory of Banyuls-sur-Mer (Sorbonne University / CNRS) and their American colleagues, octocrylene is not a safe sun filter.

The reason for this?

According to their work, published on March 8, 2021, as they age (even in a hermetically sealed bottle), octocrylene transforms into a compound qualified as a potentially carcinogenic endocrine disruptor: benzophenone.

All this, plus octocrylene – like many other sunscreens – is also considered harmful to the seabed and the environment in general. Allergizing, toxic, not very biodegradable, bioaccumulable… We now lend octocrylene all the evils. But then, how is it that this ingredient has not been definitively removed from the composition of our products if this is really the case?

It is up to the FEBEA (Federation of Beauty Companies) to intervene to explain that cosmetic products – sun protection included – are subject to the most stringent regulations and closely monitored by European and French health authorities.

Also according to a press release sent by the latter, the products available on the beauty market would be safe for health thanks to the respect of the authorized doses. The last CSSC opinion, dating from January 2021, reaffirmed the safety of octocrylene at the doses authorized in Europe. The important thing would then be to respect the life cycle of a product containing octocrylene, in other words, to use it a maximum of one year after its purchase (so that the benzophenone is not the time to develop there).

And when it comes to the toxicity of this type of sunscreen to the planet (and in particular to corals), many scientists now claim that although sunscreens are regularly criticized, air pollution, intensive fishing and water pollution (plastic waste, wastewater, oil slicks, etc.) would be the main players in the degradation of corals.

You will understand, opinions about the toxicity of octocrylene diverge. While some strongly advise against the use of products containing this ingredient, others advocate instead making sure to use it in the right way and under the right conditions. However, octocrylene remains controversial.

If you want to avoid this component, the good news is that its presence must be mentioned in the list of ingredients. It will therefore suffice for you to refer to the latter in order to turn to a product that does not contain octocrylene. Better yet, you can also bet on sun protection that is more respectful of the environment – biodegradable and relying on the effectiveness of mineral filters (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) – whose references have multiplied in recent years on the market.