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“In the late 80s, as a young guy, I got on a tour to Chisinau, where for the first time I tried local alcohol at a tasting. As far as I remember, Moldovan wines adequately competed in the USSR with Georgian and Crimean ones.
At the same time, the taste, smell and color of Moldovan wine differed from wines from other Soviet republics due to the climate and geographical location of the region.”
So my father began the story at one of the home feasts. Further, everything is recorded from his words.
Where and from what were these wines made?
In the Moldavian SSR, an area of more than 150 hectares was given over to vineyards, which was conditionally divided according to the territorial principle into the northern, central, southern and southeastern zones. On the territory of each such zone there were famous wine factories.
For example, in the north there was the Balti wine and cognac factory, which became famous for high quality cognacs, produced under the names Codru, Bucuria, Serbetoare.
There were many wineries in the south of the republic – in large and small settlements of Cimislia, Comrat, Cahul, Vulkanesti, as well as in Volovo. In the center of the Moldavian SSR, there were large factories in Chisinau and Cricova.
Good wines were produced in Lesser Milesti, Straseni, Calarasi, Orhei, Romanesti. In the South-East, winemaking was put on stream in the special zone of Purkarakh, as well as in the city of Suvorov.
Assortment of Moldovan wines from the times of the USSR
Each vineyard provided raw materials for a particular type of wine. The main types of grapes that were grown for vintage white wine are:
- Feteaska Albe;
- Feteasca Regala;
- hybrid Fetyaska Albe and Furmint;
- Swim.
Red wines were made mainly from Rare Neagre, Gamay Freo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Saperavi, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Malbec. For table wines, varieties Moldova, Muscat Hamburg, Zhemchug Sabo, Queen of Vineyards, Muscat Amber were used.
In addition to the official winemaking in the Moldavian SSR, private production of wine flourished, which was sold to tourists “under the counter”.
How much did they cost, were they popular?
All wines in the Moldavian SSR, and indeed throughout the Union, were sold at one price, which was printed directly on the labels in the factory. In the state stores in Chisinau, I saw such wines as “Codru”, “Nisporenskoe” and “Feteaska” for 2 rubles 40 kopecks.
But Moldovans are an enterprising people. Therefore, it was possible to buy the same wines in factory bottles from private traders for 40-50 kopecks cheaper.
Vintage wines Romanesti, Gratiesti and Sauvignon cost a little more. The official price of such drinks was exactly 3 rubles, but the newly minted businessmen for these wines also dumped prices in the region of fifty dollars.
“Gratiesty” – vintage wine from the Council of National Economy of the Moldavian SSR.
“Feteaska” – wine, winner of international awards.
The only wine that could not be bought cheaper was the Buket Moldavii, famous throughout the Union and beyond. This wine contained the addition of herbal infusions, and it was the hallmark of the Republic.
Its price was kept at the level of 5 rubles per bottle, and private traders considered it below their dignity to sell the “face” of the Moldavian SSR cheaper.
By the way, after the tasting, which I happened to visit, at the exit they gave 2 bottles of “Bouquet of Moldova” as a present.
The price label is a sign of stability in the USSR.
Moldovan wines were in great demand throughout the USSR. For example, in the Urals they were in short supply and were considered elite alcohol.
What wines were produced in the USSR and how they looked
Any adult person, arriving in the Moldavian SSR, must go to a tasting. I was no exception. In 1989, while staying at the Intourist Hotel in Chisinau, I purchased a tour of a small winery.
A walk through the cellars, a tour of the plantations are few etched in my memory. But I still remember the taste of the wines that I tasted.
Tables for 2 or 4 people were filled with all kinds of snacks, from salty cheese and meat to sweet custards and fruit. And a range of wine glasses. The bartenders poured white wines first, and after tasting them, the guests switched to red ones.
A man with a microphone in the center of the hall told the story of each wine, grape variety, growing area. After that, it was proposed to taste the wine and eat it with a certain product.
Interesting! The taste of wine depends not only on the variety of grapes and the area of its cultivation, but also on the time of harvest.
A collection that was proud of in any Soviet home.
Dessert light wines, such as Gratiesti, had a neutral light berry flavor with honey notes. Red wines were distinguished by a bright bouquet, rich taste with a slight astringency and a beautiful dark ruby color.
For example, in the bouquet of Chumay wine, I easily guessed the notes of chocolate and vanilla. This is the kind of vintage wine you could try and buy in Soviet Moldova.
What happened to them after the USSR
After the collapse of the USSR in 1991, Moldovan winemaking fell into decline. Although the destruction of the industry began long before the collapse of the Union – the famous anti-alcohol reform of Gorbachev forced the winegrowers to cut the vine.
Now Moldovan winemakers have raised viticulture to a new level. It is good that the fans of their craft have preserved the technology and local grape varieties. A guide is being prepared, similar to a restaurant guide, for the resumption of wine tourism.
Interest in Moldovan wines is also growing in Russia. Sommeliers and restaurateurs go to large factories in Cricova and Purcari to study the assortment. Moldova supplies its wines to Asian countries – Japan and China, as well as to the west – the United Kingdom, Poland, Romania.
Today’s wines from Moldova are the same product of winemakers, but in different containers and with more attractive labels.
And I miss those unsightly bottles with nondescript stickers, in them the taste of wine seemed brighter. Have you tried Moldovan wines in the USSR and modern brands from Moldova? Feel the difference?
Dear readers, remember that alcohol abuse harms your body. Take care of yourself!